Report

• on the championship of alpine training and sports bases and KSP of the All-Union Council of the VDFSO of trade unions in mountaineering 1988
• on the peak Ak-Su Ser. (5217 m)
• on the center of the north wall, variant of Popov's route
• 2nd ascent
• team of ASB "Domбай"
• team coach - Grishchenko Valentin Anatolyevich
• team leader - Chaplynsky Igor Orestovich

Addresses

Peak Akksu (N.), 5217 m, center of N. face (Chaplynsky, 1988), Cat. 6B Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak gorge. 5.4.2.6

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Laylyak gorge, Turkestan Range
3. Peak Akksu (N.) 5217 m via center of N. face (Chaplynsky, 1988)
4. Category 6B difficulty. 4th ascent.
5. Height difference — 1467 m. Distance — 1910 m. Distance of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 1350 m. Average steepness of the route (face) — 74°

35 pr. 537 i. 1.

27.0384

PASSPORT

1. CATEGORY — snow and ice.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Suu valley.
3. Peak 4660 m (Badygin) via the North face.
4. Presumed 4A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference 760 m; total length 1100 m; length of 4th category of difficulty sections 310 m.
6. Average steepness of the route — 45°.
7. Average steepness of the key section 75–80° with a length of 30 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical (4251–5250)
2. Ascent area: Turkestan Range, Aksu valley
3. Peak: p. 4660 (Badygin) via North slope
4. Category of complexity: 4A
5. Route character: snow-ice

• Height difference — 760 m
• Average steepness — 51°
• Section length:
  • R4 — 310 m

I. First Ascent Category 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge. 3. Pik A. Blok, 5229 m, via Central Bastion. 4. Proposed category 6B, combined, first ascent. 5. Route elevation gain — 780 m. Route length — 945 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 730 m. Average steepness of the route — 65°. Average steepness of the bastion wall — 75°. 6. Pitons driven:

Passport

I. Technical Class

2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge
3. Peak Blok A., 5239 m, via the Southwest Ridge (N. Petrichenko's route)
4. Category 5B difficulty
5. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation gain: 790 m
   • Length: 990 m
   • Length of sections with 5th-6th difficulty category: 400 m
   • Average slope of the route: 55°

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Technical category.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge.
3. Peak 5239 (A. Blok) via the Western ridge.
4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., combined, second ascent.
5. Height difference — 790 m, route length — 990 m. Average slope of the route — 55°. Average slope of the icy part of the route — 50°. Average slope of the main rock part — 72°. Length of sections with 5th and 6th cat. diff. — 400 m.
6. Number of pitons: | rock | nuts | ice |

Ascent Passport

1. CLASS — technical
2. Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge
3. Peak A. Blok (5239 m) via the central bastion of the northern wall (route by group of S. Efimov)
4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 5B, fourth ascent
5. HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 1039 m, length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 583 m, 5th cat. diff. — 325 m. AVERAGE STEEPNESS of the main part of the route — 80°
6. NUMBER OF PITS: rock — 138 (31), bolt — 8 (53), chocks — 156, ice — 28 (9)
7. CLIMBING TIME — 77.5 hours, days — 6. 1 day of preparation
8. NIGHTS: four sitting and hammock bivouacs, one lying on a ridge
9. LEADER: Oshé Eduard Andreevich, Master of Sports

Ascent Passport

1. Peak, its height, route: p. A. Blok, 5229 m, via the Central Bastion of the North wall.
2. Area of ascent: Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge.
3. Difficulty category: 5B (participants recommend 6th cat. diff.).
4. Route characteristics: length — height difference — average steepness of the route's wall section —
5. Pitons hammered:

I. Technical class. 2. Turkestan Ridge. Ak-Su gorge. 3. Peak A. Blok via the central bastion of the North wall. 4. Assumed 6B, first ascent. 5. Height difference 710 m, length 800 m. Length of 6B sections — 500 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 78° (4500–5100 m). 6. Pitons driven: rock: 97/62, bolted: 11/11, nuts: 245/166, ice screws: 20/0 7. Team's total climbing hours: 57 (5 days) 8. Overnights: I–II in hammocks; III–IV — two in hammocks; V on a carved snow-ice ledge.