497

of 30.09.80, 5B cat., semi-circular traverse.

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT CLASS: technically challenging
2. ASCENT AREA, RIDGE: Pamir, Peter I Ridge
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Unnamed, 5730 m, North-East wall, counterfort
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 6B cat. diff.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: Height difference: 2130 m.

"PEAK ARMENIA" height 5495 m. "Kurayshapak" ridge, North-Eastern spurs of the Peter I Range, PAMIR. REPUBLIC OF TAJIKISTAN. Chairman of the FAS Donetsk region Kovalev S.V. 6.06.2005.

Ascent Passport. Table № 1

1. Country, Mountain System: Republic of Tajikistan, Pamir.
2. Ascent Class: High-altitude.

Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route to Peak Borodino from Fortambek Glacier

USSR Climbing Federation

USSR Climbing Championship, 1970

Kirova Peak via the west face (6371 m) Protocol No. 318 dated October 3, 1970. Category 5B, first ascent. DONETSK REGIONAL COUNCIL OF "AVANGARD" SPORTS ORGANIZATION Donetsk, 1970

"Peak Oleg Mkrtchan", height 4980 m. "Kurayshapak" ridge, North-Eastern spurs of the Peter the First ridge, PAMIR. REPUBLIC OF TAJIKISTAN.

Ascent Passport

1. Country, mountain system name:
2. Ascent class:
3. Ascent area, ridge:
4. Peak, its height, ascent route:
5. Proposed difficulty category:
6. Route characteristics: height difference: length of sections of 4–5 complexity categories: average steepness:
7. Number of driven pitons or used placement elements:

28

Georgian Climbing Club

named after A. B. Japaridze

Class of Traverses

Traverse

Peak "Nablyudeniy" (5579 m) – peak "Fersmana" (5700 m) – peak "Bezimyannyy" (6010 m) – Oshanina massif (6390 m) – peak "30th Anniversary of the Soviet State" (6447 m) – peak "Moskva" (6785 m) – peak "Soyuz-Apollon" (6047 m) – peak "Dushanbe" (5456 m) with ascent to peak "Nablyudeniy" via the southeastern counterfort (first ascent) Team of the Georgian Climbing Club named after A. Japaridze Leader: D. Dangadze, Master of Sports Members:

• G. Abashidze, Master of Sports

Report

on the first ascent to Peak 7490 m (Peak N. Ostrovsky) via the West Ridge, made by the combined team of the Ukrainian SSR Sports Committee, led by S.I. Bershov, consisting of:

• G.I. Vasilenko
• V.G. Boyko
• V.P. Gordeev
• S.K. Sentsov
• V. Rekoslavsky
• P.F. Slavinsky
• A.N. Tolstousov Between June 8 and June 13, 1979.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: High-altitude technical climb
2. Ascent area: North-Western Pamir, Peter the First Ridge
3. Peak, its height, route: Peak 5490 m via the North-Eastern ridge, first ascent
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 2290 m
   • Average steepness: 55° (from the saddle between Peak 4050 m and the NE ridge of Peak 5490 m)
   • Length of sections:
     • I–II difficulty category – 2600 m

Passport

I. Altitude-Technical Class

2. Central Pamir, Peter the First Ridge
3. Peak Oshanina (6389 m) via the North face
4. Expected — 6th cat. diff., first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 2040 m, length ≈ 3000 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 1350 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 60° (4500–6300 m), including 6 cat. diff. 76° and 110° (≈ 5000 m), 80° (5200–5250 m), 80° (6230–6300 m) — total 190 m.
6. Pitons driven: rock screw anchors ice 113/IX 0/0 14/II 66/0
7. Climbing hours to the summit 59; days — 7

Description of the first ascent to the summit of Misses-Tau via the eastern wall. The ascent was made from July 15 to 19, 1958, by a sports team from the Academy of Sciences of the Armenian SSR, led by Master of Sports B.A. Garf, consisting of Benkin - 1st sports category, K.P. Dobrynin - 2nd sports category, K.I. Smirnov - 3rd sports category, V.M. Spiridonov - 1st sports category, V.I. Shakhvatov - 1st sports category. July 15, 1958. The group departed at 10:00 from the base camp of the sports team of the Academy of Sciences of the Armenian SSR, located at the confluence of the Mizhargi River and the Cherek Bezengiysky River. The path goes along the left orographic bank of the river and the Mizhargi glacier to the Cheget-Mizhyrgi glacier and further along the left edge of the latter to the end of the left-bank moraine. The journey takes 4 hours. Overnight stay on a green meadow near a stream, 100 meters below the "ram's foreheads." July 16. We depart at 5:00. The ascent to the upper cirque of the Cheget-Mizhyrgi glacier goes via несложным baраньим лбам. The upper part of the cirque is bypassed to the right along the snow. The path from the overnight stay to the wall takes 2 hours. The ascent up the wall begins from the lowest point of the wall, near the characteristic reddish rocks. Crossing the crevasse from ice to rocks is done via a snow bridge.