Description of the first ascent to the summit of Misses-Tau via the eastern wall.

The ascent was made from July 15 to 19, 1958, by a sports team from the Academy of Sciences of the Armenian SSR, led by Master of Sports B.A. Garf, consisting of Benkin - 1st sports category, K.P. Dobrynin - 2nd sports category, K.I. Smirnov - 3rd sports category, V.M. Spiridonov - 1st sports category, V.I. Shakhvatov - 1st sports category.

July 15, 1958. The group departed at 10:00 from the base camp of the sports team of the Academy of Sciences of the Armenian SSR, located at the confluence of the Mizhargi River and the Cherek Bezengiysky River. The path goes along the left orographic bank of the river and the Mizhargi glacier to the Cheget-Mizhyrgi glacier and further along the left edge of the latter to the end of the left-bank moraine. The journey takes 4 hours. Overnight stay on a green meadow near a stream, 100 meters below the "ram's foreheads."

July 16. We depart at 5:00. The ascent to the upper cirque of the Cheget-Mizhyrgi glacier goes via несложным baраньим лбам. The upper part of the cirque is bypassed to the right along the snow. The path from the overnight stay to the wall takes 2 hours.

The ascent up the wall begins from the lowest point of the wall, near the characteristic reddish rocks. Crossing the crevasse from ice to rocks is done via a snow bridge.

The first two ropes of moderately difficult rocks are climbed with alternating belay via ledges, in an upward direction to the right. Further, to the left, there is a narrow shelf that is climbed with piton protection. Then, between two large rocks, we emerge onto the left side of a slightly pronounced ridge and continue moving upward. Then, a steep, smooth internal corner with few holds, about 30 meters long, is climbed. Piton protection is necessary.

The upper part of the corner is blocked by a rock plug.

The exit from this corner is to the right onto inclined slabs resembling smooth "ram's foreheads," and is made by the first climber without a backpack, with careful piton protection using a piton as an artificial aid.

The ascent up the slabs (one rope) leads to a small platform.

Further, we move upward along the ridge via несложным скалам simultaneously (3 ropes). The ridge turns into a wall, which is partially bypassed along crumbling shelves on the left, orographically, side of a wide couloir. The shelf ends with a large rock, from which a narrow crevice, 8 meters long, goes upward to the right. This is climbed by the first climber, who then descends back with a rope. The crevice leads to steep but несложные скалам типа бараньих лбов. Careful piton protection is necessary, but organizing it is challenging due to the few suitable cracks.

Further, the path goes upward, to the left, via an internal corner (10–12 meters) and leads to a wide platform. From the platform, along a horizontal shelf, we move to the left for one rope. Then, the path goes along the left side of a small couloir.

The order of passing this section:

• The first climber ascends without a backpack via very difficult rocks to a small ledge where the next climber can be received (piton protection).
• Further, we move along an internal corner about 30 meters long with a plug in the middle part.
• The upper part is exceptionally difficult; the first climber should ascend in climbing shoes.

The corner leads to a crest where we can move simultaneously (3 ropes), first via rocks, then via snow. The ridge abuts a wall. At this point, an overnight stay was organized. The ascent to this location from the first bivouac took 15 hours.

July 17, 1958. Departure at 6:00. The wall near the overnight stay is bypassed to the left via несложным скалам.

Further, the path goes via скалам типа бараньих лбов along the right side of a steep snow-ice couloir. Crossing to the other side of the couloir and moving along the opposite wall of the couloir is possible but hazardous due to frequent rockfall. Therefore, we move along the right side of the couloir:

• first via steep, smooth rocks,
• then via a snow-ice slope with rock islands made of slabs, partially covered with ice crust.

The ascent to the ridge goes via a snow-ice slope with an average steepness of 30–40°. Further, we move along the ridge (1 rope). A gendarme on the ridge, 30–35 meters high, is bypassed to the left:

• via rocks covered with ice,
• then via an ice slope with step-cutting,
• via a snow slope (2 ropes),

and we rejoin the ridge. We move along the snowy crest; after 50 meters, we reach a gentle section (snowy) where a bivouac can be organized.

Then, the snow-ice crest becomes steeper (up to 40°) and leads to the base of a rock gendarme consisting of smooth, steep slabs. The left side of the gendarme has a negative slope. Bypassing it is done via a steep ice slope on the right side with step-cutting (the steepness of the ice slope at this point is about 50°). Avalanches come down this slope. The bypass was done with protection using ice screws. The exit onto the gendarme is made 5–6 meters from its base via smooth rocks. Then, we ascend via rocks to an internal corner where the path is very challenging (45–50 meters). Piton protection is used; the first climber ascends without a backpack in climbing shoes.

The exit from this corner leads to a snowy ridge abutting a wall of the gendarme. On the snowy ridge, a bivouac is organized.

On this day, the group worked on the route for 14 hours.

July 18. Departure at 6:30. The ascent onto the gendarme goes via a vertical internal corner located slightly to the left of the ridge. The corner, one rope long, is climbed by the first climber without a backpack in climbing shoes to a small inclined slab where one person can be received. The location is very challenging; careful piton protection is necessary. Further, the path goes via a steep inclined slab (5 meters), and then via a narrow shelf to the left along and up the wall of the gendarme, crossing small couloirs with ice.

From this point, a transition is made to the neighboring ridge via a steep ice couloir with a rocky upper part; the couloir is 15–20 meters long; in the lower part, step-cutting is necessary, and in the upper part, consisting of vertical smooth slabs, a piton is used as an artificial aid.

Further:

• a small descent into a pass (3 meters);
• ascent via a small steep wall (10 meters) to the pre-summit;
• after one rope - traverse to the right onto the ridge leading to the summit;
• to the summit remain 2 ropes of разрушенных простых скал and 2 ropes of a gentle snowy ridge.

On this day, the ascent took 10 hours (150 meters in height).

The descent was made via the ascent route of category 5A difficulty.

During the ascent, 39 rock pitons and 2 ice screws were used. It should be noted that in many places on the route, careful piton protection is necessary; however, the monolithic structure of the rocks with few cracks complicates the use of pitons.

The group believes that this route is significantly more challenging than the following routes climbed by the group members:

1. East Shkhelda via the classic route - 4B
2. Dubl-pik via the wall - 4B
3. "Skazka" via the wall - 4B
4. Traverse of West and Main Dombay - 5A
5. Koshtan-Tau from the Krumkolsky pass - 5A
6. East Shkhelda via the north wall - 5A
7. Traverse of two peaks of Dykh-Tau - 5A

General characteristics of the wall:

• Height - approximately 1200 meters.
• Average steepness - approximately 60–65°.
• Total number of climbing hours spent by the group (in good weather), not counting approaches and descent - 39 hours.

The group evaluates the route as category 5A difficulty. Group leader (B.A. GARF)