Route description by sections

Section R0–R1, R2–R4, R4–R5, R6–R9, R9–R28, R28–R81, R81–R86, R86–R88, R88–R89, R89–R40, R40–R41, R41–R42, R42–R48, R43–R44 Very destroyed rock wall. Rock wall, in the middle part - a cornice, is passed with the use of artificial support points (И.Т.О.). Alternation of:

• rock walls
• inner corners
• shelves Passed by free climbing (many loose stones).

Ascent Passport

1. Area — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, p.6.2
2. Peak — Zvezdny, 2265 m, via the right part of the 3rd wall, "Tred" route
3. Claimed — 5A cat. diff. — first ascent
4. Route type — rock climbing

5. Route Characteristics:

elevation gain — 315 m, total route length — 328 m, length of 6th cat. diff. sections — 170 m, 5th cat. diff. — 75 m, average steepness of the entire route — 65.4° 6. Equipment used on the route: anchor pitons — 41/35, 1 left behind, broken, on the mid-shelf, camalots — 51/32, about 35 IT0 on "fifas", about 9 IT0 on skyhooks, 1 IT0 on a bolt. 7. Total climbing hours — 8 h 45 min, days — 1. Descent 2 h via Lebedev's route, "Kant", 5A cat. diff. No overnight stays

ASCENT REPORT

1. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
2. Peak name: Zvezdny Peak, route name: via the left part of the West Face.
3. Proposed category: 6A, variation.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 495 m (by altimeter). Route length: 539 m. Section length: 5th cat. diff.: 260 m, 6th cat. diff.: 239 m. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route: 83°

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Pik Zvezdny 2265 m via the western wall, Balezin's route, 5B category of complexity, by the team of the Krasnoyarsk Alpine Club on July 25, 2024.

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Log

1. Ascent classification: technical
2. Ascent area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
3. Peak, route: Zvezdny via the NE wall
4. Difficulty category: 6A, winter ascent
5. Height difference: 700 m, with 700 m being wall ascent Total length:
   • 5th difficulty category — 220 m
   • 6th difficulty category — 150 m average route steepness — 67°

MINISTRY OF SPORTS OF KRASNOYARSK KRAI KRASNOYARSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION

Siberian Federal District Alpinism Championship

2018

• High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

On the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team Kolesnikov K.I.—Smetanin N.A. to peak Zvezdny, 2265 m, via the center of the NE wall

• First ascent via "Kvadrat"
• Variant — 6A category of complexity

Contents

Working notes from 6A Khvostenko on Zvezdny (July 2020) June 29 10:00 departure 10:35 below the route 11:00 start of work 16:00 above the first ledge by 17 m — 2.5 ropes fixed. 1st rope: Ito, Sky, relief. Installed one new bolt in an old hole. 2nd rope: Ito, Sky, 5 m, climbing to the ledge 6B+/6C. Bolts at the station, but better 5 m higher, just a 60 m rope. 3rd rope: 8 m, climbing in boots. Ito on the flake, wet and slime from under the eave, can be bypassed on the left on the fifi hooks. At the end — climbing on wet rock to the bolts on the eave 5C+. From them traverse right 10 m. Two bolts. Slightly left: one Sky hole, wet; friend under the eave; bolt behind the eave; three Sky holes.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing type — rock climbing
2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
3. Peak Vostochny Zvezdny, 2190 m via S wall
4. Claimed as — first ascent
5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 280 m.
• total length 595 m.
• length of sections with 4th cat. diff. — 75 m., 3rd cat. diff. — 200 m.
• average steepness: entire route — 45°.

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Ergaki Ridge, Western Sayan. 6.2
2. Summit — Zvezdny Peak (V) 2190 m via South Ridge
3. Proposed — Category 3A difficulty, first ascent
4. Route type — Rock climbing
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain approximately 300 m, length approximately 1000 m
6. Equipment used on the route: 19 protection pieces
7. Total climbing hours — 5
8. Overnight stays — none

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical class
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range
3. Peak Kholodnaya стена via the center of the North wall 5970 m (Verba route)
4. 6th category of difficulty, second ascent, 4th overall
5. Elevation gain: 1500 m, length — 1800 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1600 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 75° (4470 – 5850), including 6th category difficulty — 580 m
6. Pitons hammered: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | | 169+5x | — | 86 | 65 |