Ascent Passport

1. The route is combined
2. 2.96 – Dagestan mountains (2.9 East Caucasus)
3. Ascent to Mt. Bali-al (4007 m) via the Eastern ridge, first ascent
4. Proposed category – 1B, reg. No 548, 4.7. 16/4–85
5. Route characteristics:

• length – 810 m
• total elevation gain – approx. 550 m
• average steepness – 35°
• length of categorized sections:

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude.
2. Climbing area — Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range.
3. Peak — Peak "E. Korzhenevskoi" 7105 m, via the South Ridge from Moskvin Glacier.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 4200–7105 m, section length 5 km – 60 m, average steepness of the route 42°.
6. Pitons used: for belaying SK-16, ice screws 2, for creating anchor points — 2 pieces.
7. Total climbing hours — 26 hours.
8. Number of bivouacs — three, two bivouacs were set up on the ridge by cutting part of the snowy ridge and laying out stone platforms.
9. Team

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION CS SDSO "Burevestnik"

Report

on the first ascent of the southern ridge of Peak E. Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) by the CS SDSO "Burevestnik" team Team Captain /V. Tsetlin/ Coach /V. Smit/ Moscow, 1966 Fig. 2. Scheme of ascent to Peak E. Korzhenevskaya. The scheme indicates the sections shown on the profile map.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - high-altitude 2. Ascent area - Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Peak E. Korzhenevskoi, 7105 m, east face 4. Proposed difficulty category - highest 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain - 2600 m, average slope - 55°, length of sections with 5th difficulty category - 525 m. 6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating intermediate anchors (I.T.O.) rock 21, 8 ice 30, 2

Climbing Passport:

1. Pamir, Akademiya Nauk range
2. Peak Korzhenevskoi, 7105 m, via SW ridge (V. Markelov, 1984)
3. Climbing category — 5B
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 2500 m Route length: 5000 m Length of sections: category V — 30 m Average slope:

• main part of the route — 60°

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude class
2. Central Pamir
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya, via the Southwest Ridge
4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 2800 m, route length 5000 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty - 3000 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 50° (5100–6100 m).
6. Pitons used: rock 23/0

1. Class of ascent — high-altitude;
2. Region of ascent — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range;
3. Peaks, their height, ascent route: Peak E. Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) with ascent from Moskvina Glacier along the southwest ridge (Markelov's route);
4. Category of difficulty — 5B;
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 3000 m; length of sections: 1st category of difficulty — 1000 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 800 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 300 m, 4th category of difficulty — 740 m, 5th category of difficulty — 160 m; average steepness: 30°;
6. Pitons driven: for creating artificial holds — none, for belaying — 44, of which rock pitons — 4, ice screws — 40, bolt pitons — none;
7. Number of climbing hours: 6+7+10+10+8=41 hours;
8. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: 4 bivouacs, lying down;
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification: Krasnoukhov Yuri Vasilyevich (MS) — team leader

Passport

1. Altitude class
2. Central Pamir
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m via the triangle of the Western wall
4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent
5. Height difference: 1900 m, length — 3305 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 765 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 73°. Of which 6 cat. diff. — 85°–120 m.
6. Pitons driven:

Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m

Left edge of the western wall of the southern ridge

led by Chochia P.A. 1988

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range, section №4.1 of the route classifier on mountain peaks.
2. Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya (7105 m), left edge of the western wall of the southern ridge.
3. Proposed: 5B — 6A difficulty category (first ascent).
4. Route character: combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 1800 m. Route length: 2900 m. Length of sections:

135. VTSSPS-Karaugomsky South — North (combined route, category 2B, Fig. 20, 29). The path from the Tsey region KSP or from the Dzinaga settlement (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the snow plateau of the Central branch of the Karaugomsky plateau under the VTSSPS-Karaugomsky massif is described in route 83. From the bivouac (closed crevices), approach the right side of the saddle connecting Bokos to VTSSPS-Karaugomsky across the plateau. From the plateau, overcome the bergschrund using a snow bridge, and ascend 80–100 m up the snowy slope to the snowy saddle (belay). On the saddle, turn right and ascend the snowy slope, then a simple rock ascent leads to the South ridge of the VTSSPS-Karaugomsky massif. Further along the long, simple, heavily destroyed, and snow-covered South ridge with numerous simple gendarmes, approach the rock ascent to the South summit. Ascend the 15–20-meter wall (loose rocks — piton belay) to the South summit. From the South summit, traverse along the simple, heavily destroyed rock ridge to approach the wall of the Central summit and ascend it straight up (loose rocks — belay) to the Central summit of the massif. From the Central summit, traverse along the long, gently sloping snow ridge (cornices) to reach the North summit. From the North summit, make a short descent onto the snowy North ridge and then descend along it (cornices), followed by its right slope, overcoming the bergschrund in the lower part, and descend rightward onto the Central branch of the Karaugomsky plateau. The duration of the route is 6–8 hours excluding approaches. Fig. 29