4.6.9

Protocol No.380 dated 2.17.1972. Classified 5A. First ascent. South-West Pamir upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river, peak 5100 m “Kiik-bal-khana”

Report

• on the first ascent of the South-West wall 5B cat. difficulty by the team of Kharkov regional council of the sports society “Avangard” June 14, 1973 Grushko Yu.I. Candidate Master of Sports

Team Report

Sverdlovsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports on the Ascent of Peak Mayakovsky via the NW Wall

Class — High-altitude Technical

Report

On the First Ascent to Peak 5215 m (Soviet Badakhshan Peak) via the West Face in the Southwestern Pamir by the team from the Kharkov Regional Sport Committee:

• BERSHOV S.I. — Master of Sports of the USSR
• BAKHTIGOZIN V.A. — Master of Sports of the USSR
• GRIGORENKO-PRIGODA Yu.I. — Master of Sports of the USSR
• TKACHENKO V.S. — Master of Sports of the USSR July 28 — August 7, 1975 KHARKOV

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. ASCENT CATEGORY — technical. 2. ASCENT REGION — South-West Pamir. 3. ASCENT ROUTE — Peak 5100 m (STROITEL) via the Eastern ridge — Cat. 2B (approx.) pr413 dated 27/4-76.20saibog. 4. ASCENT DESCRIPTION: elevation gain — 1600 m, average slope — 45°, length of difficult sections — ~60 m 5. PITS INSERTED: rock — 7. ice — 6. MOVING TIME: 7 h. 7. NUMBER OF NIGHTS ON THE ROUTE: none.

Kharkov Regional Sports Committee Collection 1986

First Ascent Category

Report

On the ascent of peak Tri Bashni via the NW wall, category 5B difficulty (first ascent) by the team of Kharkov Regional Sports Committee. Team leader: Tanets A.A., Rybchenko V.D. Team coach: Artemenko G.P. 310003, Kharkov, Dvorets Truda, Kharkov Oblast Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society. 310121, Kharkov, ul. Geroyev Truda, 68 A, apt. 34. Tanets A.A. 310023, Kharkov, vyezd Krasnogo Studen-chestva, 8. Artemenko G.P. Heights were determined using a map and visually.

Ascent Passport

1. Class of ascent: first ascent
2. Ascent area: 10-3 Pamir, Shakhdarin ridge
3. Peak, height, route: p. Tri Bashni, 5527 m, via N wall, category 3
4. Expected difficulty category: 5B, first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference of the route — 1300 m, height difference of the wall section — 450 m length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 525 m, length of sections with 6 cat. diff. — 50 m, average steepness of the wall section — 78°
6. Pitons used: rock bolts stoppers ice 51 (6) 88 (5) 2 (1) 12 (4)

27

Southwestern Pamir. Peak Shpil. Elevation (5527 m) 5568 m

Report on the first ascent via the eastern ridge, category 4A difficulty, made by a group from the Kharkov regional council of the "Avangard" sports society on June 20, 1973, consisting of:

• Slobodyanik L.I. – 2nd sports category – leader
• Spesivtsev A.E. – Master of Sports
• Kovalinskaya L.P. – 2nd sports category
• Eremenko G.N. – 2nd sports category Kharkov, 1973

Contents

Ukrainian SSR Climbing Championship 1986 First Ascent Category

REPORT

on the ascent to Peak Shater 5568 m via the right part of the NW wall, 5B category of complexity (first ascent) by the team from Kharkov Regional Sports Committee. Team Leader: Tanets A.A. Team Coach: Artemenko G.P. 310003 Kharkov, Palace of Labor Kharkov Regional Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society 310121 Kharkov 68A, Heroes of Labor St., apt. 34. Tanets A.A.

I. Class of ascent: first ascent 2. Region of ascent: K-3 Pamir, Garm-Chashma valley 3. Peak, height, ascent route: p. Shatyor 5568 m, via the right part of the NW wall. 4. Estimated category of difficulty: 5E cat. 5. Route characteristics: height difference of the wall section: 1200 m, length of the wall section: 1300 m, length of sections with 5-6 cat.: 724 m, length of sections with 6 cat.: 75 m, average steepness of the wall section: 72° 6. Pitons hammered: rock placements - bolted 158/17, 107/9, 5/5 7. Number of climbing hours: 55, days - 7. 8. Bivouacs: 1st - sit­ting in a tent, 2nd - ly­ing in a tent, full of snow, 3rd - sit­ting in a tent, plat­form laid on an in­clined shelf, 4th, 5th - ly­ing in a tent - plat­form tram­pled in the snow un­der the over­hang of the I 7th bas­tion, 6th - ly­ing in a tent - plat­form tram­pled on a snow ridge

REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. "Dzhailyk" (4533 m) via the Southwest Counterfort of the Western Ridge by the Dzhailyk Alpine Camp team (first ascent) Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich 1983 Alpine Camp "Dzhailyk" 360 000 Nalchik, P.O. Box 47 Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich 141 400 Moscow Region, Khimki, Aptechnaya St., 6, apt. 17 Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich