316. Lederisht via the South Ridge (the route is combined, category of difficulty 1B, fig. 32, 43). From the Nakra village cross the eponymous river and ascend the trail on the right side of the gorge until the third, large stream of the Lederisht River flowing from the right slope of the gorge. From Nkra village 3–4 hours. Here, turn right and follow the trail on the right bank of Lederisht, then Leyarag, further along the right-bank moraine to the site at its end. From the moraine, on the right side of the Leyarag glacier (ice seracs, avalanches, falling stones), reach the upper snow plateau. From the plateau, via moderately difficult rocks (gullies) of the counterfort or further left, via a steep ice-snow slope, bypass the icefall descending from the Kvish Pass and above it, on the

319. Leyrag via the Western Ridge (combined route, Suprunov's category, beyond category, fig. 32, 43).

To the right of the Leyrag glacier (m. 316) upwards along the northern slopes of the Nameless Peak to the lowering in the Western ridge of Leyrag peak — Alpinist pass. Here, turn right and, crossing the bergschrund, ascend the steep snow-ice slope or, from the left, via the talus and easy rocks to the Alpinist pass. Bivouac. From Nakra settlement 5–7 hours. At the pass, turn left and move onto the rocks of the Western ridge of Leyrag peak. Via simple 200-meter rocks of the Western ridge, overcoming three small gendarmeries head-on (protection), reach a small plateau with a pond.

Report on the first ascent by the team of the multipurpose mountaineering club "FRILINE" from Essentuki to the summit of Lkha (Western) 2625 m

via the SW couloir of the slope. Presumably Category 1B difficulty. Team leader: Donskov Andrey Mikhailovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich Essentuki 2017 Addresses: 357500, Stavropol Krai, Pyatigorsk, Sovetskaya St., 137, Motienko N. I. phone: +7-928-361-90-66, nik-motienko@mail.ru 357500, Stavropol Krai, Pyatigorsk, Mira St., 19, apt. 22, Donskov A. M. phone: +7-962-017-82-09, donskov91@mail.ru Coach: Motienko N. I.

277. Mazeri East via East Ridge (a combined route, I. Solodueva, cat. 5A, fig. 32, 40). From Okhotnichye Ploshchadki (point 258), cross Ushbinsky Glacier to the right (closed crevasses) and ascend its southeastern branch to Mazeri Pass, located between the wall of South Ushba and the first pinnacle of Mazeri East Ridge. From the glacier, bypassing the bergschrund on the right, ascend a steep snow-firn slope (falling rocks from Ushba walls) and steep moderate rocks to Mazeri Pass. For the ascent path to Mazeri Pass from Gulsky Glacier, see point 256. From the pass, ascend easy rocks of the East Ridge to the first pinnacle (cairn). Bypass the second pinnacle on the left via crumbling ledges, then reach a notch. From the notch, ascend steep easy and moderate rocks of the East Ridge with a 3-4-meter difficult wall to the third pinnacle, from where a 25-30 m rappel descends to a col beneath the fourth pinnacle. Overcome the fourth pinnacle, and then the fifth ("Tower") directly via easy and moderate snow-covered rocks of the East Ridge with a 30-40 m rappel to a col area (cornice). Continue along the East Ridge:

• a small snow-covered seventh pinnacle (cornices);
• descend from the ridge to the left and traverse via crumbling rocks of moderate and above-moderate difficulty,
• crossing snowy-ice gullies,
• ascend a steep snowy slope to a snowy notch of the East Ridge of the seventh pinnacle with "Mazeri Gates". From the notch:

Description

Ascent to Peak MNR-Northeast

Via the South Ridge (Category 3B difficulty)

From the bivouac on the green shoulder above the Kurmy Glacier, head towards the VTsPS pass until the first clearly visible couloir descending from Peak MNR-Northeast. Ascend 80 m along the scree of the couloir, sticking to the left (in the direction of travel) side, to a rock plug and:

• Traverse 40 m to the left along rock ledges and then medium-difficulty rocks to a ledge on the South Ridge;
• From the ledge, ascend 20 m up medium-difficulty rocks to under a 12-meter wall. The wall is climbed using difficult climbing with the application of an artificial point of support (piton-carabiner) in its middle part. Then:
• Ascend 30 m along difficult rocks, sticking to the left side of the ridge, to approach a 6-meter chimney;

Ascent Passport

Ascent Category — Rock Climbing

ASCENT AREA — CENTRAL CAUCASUS, PRIELBRUSIE, MONGOLIAN PEOPLE'S REPUBLIC PEAK NORTH-EAST via the South Ridge. Estimated category: 3B. Route characteristics: height difference — 530 m, average steepness — 45°, section lengths: I — 70 m, II — 150 m, III — 440 m, IV — 60 m. Pitons hammered on the route: for belay, for creating intermediate belay points: rock — 17, ice — , bolted — . Travel time — 8 hours. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: none. Names and patronyms of the leader and participants: OSIPOV OLEG FYODOROVICH — CMS, leader; SALAZKO MIKHAIL NIKOLAEVICH — 1st category, participant; LAVROV NIKOLAI VLADIMIROVICH — 2nd category, observer; SNEZHKO YURIY VASIL'EVICH — 3rd category, observer. Team coach: Head of the training department at Adyl-su tourist center, senior instructor, Master of Sports of the USSR KUSSEL-MOROZ N.A. The ascent was made on August 14, 1978.

1st day. From the "Phelda" camp, the path goes along the right orographic slope of Adyl-su to the "Jan-tugan" camp along the road and further along the trail to the old camp approximately a kilometer from the Jan-tugan tourist center. Then the trail turns left and goes along a steep grassy slope between two forest masses. After ascending the grassy slope between the two forest masses, we come out onto the scree and then along a faintly expressed ridge, we ascend to the bivouac site below the VCSPC pass. The journey to the overnight stay takes 4–5 hours. 2nd day. From the bivouac, we reach the VCSPC pass. We descend along the steep scree onto the Kurmы glacier. Along the glacier, we approach a wide couloir coming from the saw-toothed ridge between the peaks Andyrchi Main and M.N.R. South. Along the wide couloir,

Brief Description of the Route

From the Adyl-su alpine camp, descend along the road to the confluence of the Kuriu River and the Baksan River. Then, ascend into the Kuriu gorge to the left (in the direction of travel) of the waterfall. Next, follow the trail to the cow shed on the moraine ridge. After passing the cow shed, proceed along the moraine to the tongue of the Kuriu glacier. Traverse the glacier, staying on the right-hand side, to the rocky shoulder below the peak MNR Severnaia. Set up a bivouac on the shoulder. The journey from the Baksan River takes 5-6 hours. From the shoulder, ascend along the glacier to a wide couloir between MNR Pikhnaya and MNR Tsentralnaya. Climb the couloir, bypassing an icy rocky outcrop on the left, and ascend 100 m to a col on a long ridge. From the col, ascend upwards and to the right along a pronounced internal angle for 60 m. Then, traverse 60 m to the right along ledges below overhanging "rusty" rocks. Continue upwards and to the left for 80 m along a wall and a chimney, exiting onto the southern ridge of the peak MNR Tsentralnaya. Ascend along the sharp ridge (the gandari can be bypassed on the left via ledges) and broken rocks to below the summit tower. Below the summit tower, descend 10 m to the left into a depression and ascend along an internal angle to the western ridge of the peak MNR Tsentralnaya. Continue along easy rocks and ledges on the ridge for 200 m to reach the summit of MNR Tsentralnaya. The journey from the initial bivouac takes 8-10 hours. Descend from the summit along the western ridge to a col between MNR Tsentralnaya and MNR Dro-Zapadnaya, and then down a wide couloir onto the Kuriu glacier plateau. Special equipment for 4 people:

1. Main rope 2 × 40 m.
2. Rock hammers — 2 pcs.
3. Carabiners — 8 pcs.
4. Rock pitons — 8 pcs.
5. Auxiliary cord — 5 m.

1st day. From the "Phelda" camp the path goes along the right orographic slope of Adyl-su to the "Jan-tugan" camp along the road and further along the trail to the old corral approximately 1 km from the Jan-tugan hostel. Then the trail turns left and goes along a steep grassy slope between two forest areas. After ascending the grassy slope between two forest areas, we come out onto the talus and then along a faintly expressed ridge we ascend to the bivouac site below the V.Ts.S.P.S. pass. The journey to the overnight stay takes 4–5 hours. 2nd day. From the bivouac, we exit onto the V.Ts.S.P.S. pass. We descend along the steep talus onto the Kurmy glacier. Along the glacier, we approach a wide couloir coming from the pilot-shaped ridge between the peaks Andyrchi Main and M.N.R. South. Along the wide couloir,

M.H.P. 3882­m.

B. MHP HOK­HAP Ascent route — Descent route