Section 8

Protocol №208 dated November 15, 1964 К-о Вгребно 3А

Description of the ascent to the 1st Botvey Tower

From the moraine campsite, we approach the saddle between the Botvey massif and Selmashevets. We move along the scree towards the saddle and, before reaching it, turn left (in the direction of travel) towards the "Window" between the first and second gendarmes. Here is a cairn. Then we move along the ridge to the summit tower, bypassing all gendarmes on the right in the direction of travel. At the same time, we lose considerable height. When bypassing the first gendarme, we rappel 15 m from the "window" to the other side of the ridge. Two counterforts extend from the gendarme. We ascend the first counterfort along the scree and descend to its other side down a gully covered with flow ice, 6–7 m, using sports equipment. We cross a wide couloir located between the 1st and 2nd counterforts. The second counterfort is passed in the same way as the first one. The gully down which we descend from it is much longer, 30 m, with an icy bottom covered with snow. We descend from it using sports equipment. A hook with a loop is left here. The gully ends with a small ice wall, 6–7 m. Continuing to descend, we bypass the next gendarme and start ascending a wide couloir, which narrows in its upper part and increases its steepness to 70–75°. In the upper part, the couloir is covered with flow ice. This section should be passed early in the morning due to rockfall hazard. 3 hooks are driven in when passing this section. The length of this section is 15 m. Further, the couloir becomes gentler and leads to a wide ledge covered with medium scree with a steepness of 30°. We ascend along the ledge to a slab with a steepness of 45°, 30 m long. We pass these slabs with piton belay to the "window" located in the eastern counterfort of the summit tower between the summit and a small gendarme. 5 pitons are driven in.

Approach to the route from the side of the Учи­тель glacier from Ratzek hut — 3 hours. Move along the central moraine of the Учи­тель glacier in the direction of a clearly visible peak in the western ridge of Ко­рона (1-й), to the right of the Плотни­ков route. Section R0–R1. From the bergschrund move up and left along the несложному ice in the direction of a clearly visible ice couloir. 150 m, 40°, III. Section R1–R2. Up the ice couloir to the beginning of несложного combined climbing. 40 m, 65°, IV. Section R2–R3. Move along the ice and несложным rocks first left and up, then right and up in the direction of the ice rivulet. 70 m, 65°, IV. Section R3–R4. Up the ice rivulet to the snow field in front of the rock step. 50 m, 70°, IV+. Section R4–R5. Traverse right along the snow-ice field to the rock step. 50 m, 40°, III. Section R5–R6.

Section R3–R4

Description of the ascent to Peak Taranovoi via the North Ridge From the "Ala-Archa" alpine camp, the trail goes up the gorge. We ford the Ak-Sai River by stepping on stones. Further on, we follow a good trail to the Teke-Tor River, which is also easily forded a little above its confluence with the Ala-Archa River. Before reaching the Tuyuk-Su River, the trail turns left up a steep grassy slope. We set up a bivouac by a lake located before a steep rise of the old moraine. From the alpine camp to the moraine, it takes 4 hours of walking. From the bivouac, we ascend via the trail to the left of the lake onto the old moraine. We overcome another rise of the moraine and reach the river. We walked along the right bank of the river to the glacier. Having ascended onto the Tuyuk-Su glacier, we ascend via the middle part of the glacier, which is the most gentle. Crevasses are circumvented. We orient ourselves towards the snowy dome of the "School 67" peak. To the left lies the Taranovoi Pass, and further left, the peak is visible. The ascent route to Peak Taranovoi via category 1B route is visible. We continue moving along the glacier towards the North edge of this peak. A bergschrund is visible. We cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge. Insurance is provided through an ice axe. After the bergschrund, we ascend a 50-60 m ice slope with a 30-35° incline onto a saddle on the North ridge of Peak Taranovoi. Piton insurance is used. It takes 3 hours 30 minutes from the bivouac by the lake to the saddle.

As­cen­sion cer­tifi­cate

1. As­cen­sion re­gion:
2. Tian-Shan, 7.10 Tes­key-Ala­Too ridge, Ka­ra­kol gorge
3. Peak 4130 m via east­ern coun­ter­fort and N-E ridge
4. Pro­posed cat. 2B. First as­cen­sion.
5. Na­ture of the route — com­bined
6. Route ele­va­tion gain 500 m (by al­ti­me­ter)
7. Route length 800 m
8. Used on the route: ice hooks — 12, rock and nut pro­tec­tion — 0, bol­lard hooks — 0

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, range Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 6277 (Peak Parrot), NE ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 760 m average steepness — 30°
6. Protection anchors driven: ice screws — 2
7. Number of climbing hours — 18
8. Number of nights on the route and their characteristics —

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Tian-Shan, western Kokshaal-Tau
3. Peak Alpinist via the ridge
4. Proposed 5B category, first ascent
5. Elevation gain 1220 m. Distance 1970 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty 420 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (4650–5190) 68°
6. Pitons hammered in: rock 17, chocks 26, ice screws 16

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko

To the summit 5020 m («working name — Peak Gorin»)

Central Tien Shan, West Kokshaal-Too (41°1′46.12″ N 77°31′34.97″ E) via the South Ridge from the Sarychat glacier First ascent Presumably 2A category of difficulty Zaryaev V.V. + 2

Participants of the ascent

Ascent to the summit Bezymyannaya

The summit Bezymyannaya is located at the southern end of the Akademii Nauk ridge in the immediate vicinity of the Abdukagor-II pass, in a cirque formed by the peaks 6060 m and Vysokiy Tanymas. The height of the summit is 5814 m. The easiest route runs along the south-eastern ridge of the summit - the first ascent route. The route is snow-ice.

Day 1

From the base camp, the group's route goes along the left-bank (orographically) moraine of the Abdukagor glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers flow into it. Here the moraine descends and has a convenient exit onto the ice. Further, the path goes:

• through the tongue of the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers, which have merged into one;
• and exits to the left-bank moraine of the Abdukagor glacier, which rises steeply upwards (1 h). Along the trail, we ascend to the Abdukagor glacier's icefall, where there are level areas with water (1 h). After resting on the platforms, we pass the icefall in teams and on crampons (40 min). After passing the icefall, we remove the crampons and move towards the highest point of the pass. This part of the path consists of three calm ascents of medium steepness (15–25°). The glacier is closed, but in places heavily broken. We move all the time in teams. The ascent from the icefall to the pass is 500–600 m (3–3.5 h). Beyond the third ascent, the glacier flattens out and turns into a snow plateau. On the right (along the path) side of the plateau, a cave has been dug out, where we spend the night. Height 5100 m. There is water in the muldas on the plateau.

Day 2