Bichuga Malaz

2.10.27 2.9А.46. 21

Brief Characteristics of the Summit

Peak 3900 m in the western spur of the Bogossky ridge. This spur branches off from the watershed in the area of peak S. Gadzhiev, peak 3900, peak Serazhutdin Gadzhiev, Bochek, and peak Magomed Gadzhiev, forming a horseshoe that borders the Bichuga glacier. Peak 3902 is an almost perfect pyramid composed of sandstone and shale. A route to peak S. Gadzhiev via peak 3902 was established in October 1981. When describing this route, as well as the Bochek — S. Gadzhiev — 3800 traverse, an inaccuracy was made in determining the height of this peak. Determining the height using topographic map contours made it possible to clarify the peak's height — 3900 m.

Description of the Approach to the Base Camp

From the village of Khonokh in the TsUMADINSKY district of the Dagestan ASSR, located 50 km from the regional center Agvali, go left towards the farm in the direction of the characteristic rock "gates". Before reaching them, cross the river and ascend along the trail to a small pine grove. Continue along the trail, which makes a steep ascent in a serpentine manner up the grassy slope, to reach a koshar (2 hours from Khonokh). The trail traverses the slope with a slight gain in height in the direction of the confluence of the Bichuga and Tinav-chegelatly rivers. From the stream that has cut a deep and narrow canyon into the rocky bed, turn left, cross a clearing, and, moving along the rocky slabs, reach the trail leading to the second — "upper" koshar (1–1.5 hours from the lower koshar). Here, you can set up a camp — there are convenient clearings and water.

Description of the Approach to the Route and the Route

1. Ascent class: Comb. 27
2. Ascent region: №2–9 (East Caucasus)
3. Summit, height, ascent route: peak 4040 (S. Gadzhieva, 3912 m) via the western ridge through peak 3800 (Bichuga)
4. Estimated difficulty category: 2B
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1100 m, length of section I difficulty category – 1360 m, IV difficulty category – 40 m
6. Rock hooks hammered: 4 Protrusions used: 3
7. Number of walking hours: 2
8. Number of overnight stays: No overnight stays
9. Leader and participants:

ASCENT REPORT I. Category of the first ascent. 2. 2.10. Dagestan mountains, Nukatl ridge, Kabza gorge. 3. Butnubmeer Glavny peak, 3932 m, via North-West couloir and South ridge, combined route. 4. Proposed: first ascent, cat. 2A difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, route length 1200 m, including 1st cat. difficulty – 660 m, 2nd cat. difficulty – 450 m, 3rd cat. difficulty – 80 m, 4th cat. difficulty – 10 m, average steepness 40°. 6. Pitons driven – 2, snow anchors placed – 3, pitons left on the route – 1. 7. Climbing hours – 4. 8. No bivouacs. Overnight stay in BL, in Kabza gorge (2800 m). 9. Leader:

PASSPORT I. Rock class. 2. Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Nukatl ridge. 3. Peak 3914 m (G. Gamidova) via the south-eastern ridge from Butnub pass 4. Proposed category 1B, first ascent 5. Elevation gain 2200 m, length 2200 m, average slope 30°, sections of category 1 difficulty — 200 m, sections of category 2 difficulty — 200 m 6. Pitons and nuts were not used, protection through rock features. 7. Climbing hours — 6 8. Overnight stays: only under the route 9. Leader: Leonov Pyotr Georgievich

Ascent Log

1. Category of first ascent.
2. Region 2.10. Dagestan Mountains, Snegovoy Ridge.
3. Diklosmta, traverse of peaks: South (4101 m) – West (4240 m) – Central (4285 m) – East (4275 m), combined route.
4. Proposed category of complexity: 3B, first ascent.
5. Length: sections of 1st category – 780 m, 2nd category – 1200 m, 3rd category – 500 m, 4th category – 200 m, total route length – 2700 m.
6. Pitons used: rock – 2 pcs., ice screws – 3 pcs. Pitons left on the route: rock – 2 pcs. (on the descent from the South peak).
7. Climbing hours – 8.
8. No overnight stays on the route. Overnight stay at Base Camp on "Intikay" sites (200 m) and overnight stay on the descent from the East peak, on the snow-ice pad of the "East shoulder" (4150 m).

Ascent Record

I. Ascent Area 2. Ascent Class 3. Peak, its Height 4. Ascent Route 5. Expected Difficulty Category 6. Route Characteristics 7. Pitons

ROUTE SECTIONS TABLE

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing Category The climbing category is rock climbing.
2. Climbing Area, Ridge Eastern Caucasus. Main Caucasian Ridge.
3. Peak, its Height, Climbing Route 1st Western Yarydag. 4100 m via the Southern ridge from the plateau.
4. Estimated Difficulty Category Difficulty category - 3B.
5. Route Characteristics

Report

On the first ascent of the St. Petersburg team to the summit of Gaikomd Centralny, 3100 m, via the center of the southwest wall (approximately 6A category of complexity) Leader: Ilya N. Penyaev Participant: Maxim V. Kochetkov Coach: Tatyana I. Timoshenko St. Petersburg, 2017

Ascent Passport

1. Region 2.9, from Krestovy Pass to Shaviklde Peak
2. Gaikomd, 3100 m, via the center of the SW wall
3. 6A category of complexity, first ascent

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — East Caucasus, Shanava ridge
3. Peak, its height, route — p. Kichcechcort, 4133 m. via South ridge (through j. "Bolshoy")
4. Route characteristics: a) rope length height — 900 m. b) route length — 1800 m. c) average route steepness — 45°
5. Pitons hammered for belay (I.T.O.):