Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of Soviet mountaineering.

XXIV USSR Mountaineering Championship

Peak Tajikistan via the East Face. Southwestern Pamir

High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category

(Report by the team from the Dnipropetrovsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports)

• 1. Shabokhin V. A.
• 2. Samoilenko V. Ch.
• 3. Kozak L. R.
• 4. Orlov O. L. Team leader: Kakhiani

CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE USSR IN ALPINISM 1973

Class of high-altitude and technical ascents

PEAK TAJIKISTAN 6565 via the SOUTHEAST FACE The route was traversed by the team from LENINGRAD SPORTS COMMITTEE:

• Captain MS LOGACHEV Y.A.
• Senior coach MSMSK ZHITENEV F.N. Southwest Pamir
• 1973 Photo 2. Southeast face of Peak Tajikistan. Taken from Peak LGU.

DONETSK REGIONAL COUNCIL OF DSO "AVANGARD" ALP CLUB "DONBASS"

REPORT

on the first ascent to the South Tajikistan peak (6300 m) via the right part of the eastern wall Donetsk, 1972

I стр.

§ 1. Geographical location and sports characteristics of the South peak of Tajikistan

The South peak of Tajikistan is located in a spur of the Shakhdarin ridge, south of the main peak of Tajikistan (6565 m). On the eastern side, the peak is bounded by the Dridzh Zapadny glacier, and on the west by the Rovini glacier.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude and technical.
2. Climbing area: South-Western Pamir, Shakhdarin Range.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — TGU peak, 6183 m, center of the W wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1240 m. length of sections 5–6 km tr 1018 m average steepness 78° steepness of the most difficult sections 82–84°.

Ascent Passport 855

1. Ascent Class High-altitude and technical ascent
2. Ascent Region South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Range
3. Peak, its height, ascent route Peak TGU, 6183 m, center of W wall
4. Assumed difficulty category 6B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference 1240 m
   • Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 1018 m
   • Average steepness 78°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating ITO

Georgian Alpine Club named after A. Japaridze Tadj. G.U. eastern edge ridge of the southern sub-peak (First ascent report) Team captain G. Kartvelishvili Team coach T. Berishvili Tbilisi – 1979

863

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent classification — high-altitude technical climb.
2. Ascent area — South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Range, Kinty-Dzherab valley.
3. Peak — Engels Peak 6510 m via the South Face.
4. Anticipated difficulty category — 6.
5. Route description: elevation gain — 1300 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 912 m; average steepness of the rock section — 75°, average steepness of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 85°.
6. Pitons used: for belaying, for creating intermediate anchors. rock pitons 137, 70; ice screws 0, 0; bolt pitons 0, 14.
7. Total climbing hours — 3 h 30 min.

Peak Engels 6510 m

CS DSO "Trud" 1968 www.alp-federation.ru

Route Processing

On July 18, a group consisting of Romanov B., Romanov V., Onishchenko V., and Gerken V. left the assault camp (4850 m), located 1.5 hours walk from the base of the wall, to process the route. Departure at 8:00. On this day, they approached the base of the wall, passed the bergschrund. After the bergschrund, there were about 80 m of firn slope (40%). Then the steepness of the slope increases to 50–55° and ice appears under a thin layer of snow. The total length of the path from the bergschrund to the rocks is about 200 m. They moved with insurance. They left a cache under the rocks, hung ropes, and descended to the camp (4850 m). The descent from under the wall along the hung ropes to the camp took 40 minutes. On July 19, they captured the remaining cargo for the cache: ropes, "hardware". And again, they went out for processing. Using the hung ropes, they climbed to yesterday's cache. The rope team moved forward. The path goes to the base of the counterfort - a traverse to the right under the rocks, along a snow-ice slope with a steepness of 50°. They hung about 100 m of handrails. It is impossible to exit the ridge by traversing to the right due to large cornices. The path up is planned along the rock wall. Under the wall, they left cargo. Along the handrails, they descended down to the camp.

Ascent Description

July 25 - a group consisting of B. Korshunov, V. Gerken, L. Pavlichenko leaves the base camp for the 4850 m camp. The rest of the group leaves the base camp the next day.

To the USSR Championship in Alpinism

Report on the Ascent of Peak Engels via the East Face

(Category: High-altitude Technical Ascent) Expedition Leader — Master of Sports USSR, Senior Instructor LEVIN B.V. Team Coaches:

• Honored Coach of the RSFSR, Master of Sports USSR MARKOV V.G.
• Master of Sports USSR, Senior Instructor PLYSHCHEVSKY M.A. Team Members:
• Captain: MALTSEV V.F.
• Deputy Captain: OVCHINNIKOV M.F.

Climbing Passport

I. Climbing type: technical II. Climbing area: Western Pamir, Mazarsy ridge, Mazar valley III. Peak, altitude, route: Peak Soviet Olympians (p. 5347) via the right buttress of the southern wall; name proposed by the first ascenders IV. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff., first ascent V. Route characteristics: height difference 1420 m, length – 1625 m (of which V and VI cat. diff. – 1425 m) Steepness – 61°; in the lower and middle part of the route, there is no water for 850 m (in the second half of summer). VI. Number of pitons: 203 (rock pitons – 191, bolt pitons – 12), of which 33 for creating artificial anchors (ITO) VII. Number of walking hours: 74 h 30 min VIII. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: