Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge — South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin.
3. Peak, its height, route — Pik Luknitskogo, 5800 m, ascent via the North face.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1600 m, average steepness — 70°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1040 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying for creating ITO rock 140 pcs., ice 3 pcs., bolted — —

Brief Description of the Area

The Soviet Pamir is divided into three parts:

• eastern,
• central,
• western. The central part of the Pamir is a highly elevated desert plateau, with destroyed mountains of 5000–5500 m height. The plateau is surrounded by chains of high mountains with sharply dissected relief. The Western part of the Pamir differs sharply from the Central Pamir. Comparatively low northern slopes of the ridge with calmly flowing rivers suddenly abut against the sheer walls of the main ridge. This part of the Pamir remains a poorly studied area. The goal of the Russian Spartak expedition was:
• more detailed study of this area,
• educational and sports high-altitude ascents,

To the Classification Committee of the USSR Alpine Federation Moscow

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF MARX PEAK (6726) VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE ON THE SOUTH-WESTERN PAMIR, MADE BY THE COMBINED TEAM OF ALPINISTS FROM THE DNEPROPETROVSK REGIONAL COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS. August 1–16, 1971

3. Climbing Passport

1. Climb category – high-altitude technical.
2. Climbing area – Shakhdarin Range, Pamir.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route – peak "Medoviy" (peak 5350) via the Eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category – 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 1250 m, average steepness – 30°, section lengths – R1–700 m, R2–300 m, R3–25 m, R4–150 m, R5–8 m, R6–200 m, R7–45 m, R8–400 m, R9–350 m.
6. Pitons hammered for protection: rock – 10, ice – 0, bolt – 0.
7. Number of climbing hours – 9.

6. Meidak­ (5112 m). Descent from the slo­pes 6. Mtsinda *rotop­anapar «ZENIT-E», weath­er «umgye­tap-50-2»,

I. Climbing category­­ — technical 2. Climbing area­­ — 10­­–3. Pamir, Nakhdarinsky ridge, 41° Sh. Darshay 3. Peak, its height and ascent route­­ — p. Mionku, 5300 m, via E. slope 4. Estimated difficulty category­­ — 2A 5. Height difference­­ — 1200 m 6. Average steepness­­ — 45° 7. Total route length­­ — 1850 m 8. Length of sections­­ — 1st cat. diff.­­ — 1700 m; 2nd cat. diff.­­ — 150 m; 3rd cat. diff.­­ — 8 m 9. Pitons hammered: 2 rock (for belay) II. Number of climbing hours­­ — 6 hours

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: High-altitude technical 2. Ascent area: Southwestern Pamir 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: peak 5739 (Moskovskaya olimpiada, northeastern wall) 4. Estimated difficulty category: 6 5. Route characteristics:

• Height difference: 1003 m
• Average steepness: 74° (Bastions)
• Average steepness of the wall:
  1. 79°

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. ASCENT CLASS: HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL
2. ASCENT AREA, RANGE: SW PAMIR, SHAKHDARINSKY RANGE
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: P. MOSKOVSKAYA PRAVDA, 6075 m. VIA NE WALL, LEFT BASTION,
4. ANTICIPATED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 6
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: ELEVATION GAIN: 1400 m SECTION LENGTH: 5/6 km approx. 11–400 m, 11–220 m, IV–200 m, V–540 m, VI–700 m AVERAGE STEEPNESS: 70–75°

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT CATEGORY: HIGH-ALTITUDE
2. ASCENT REGION, RANGE: S.W. PAMIR, SHAKHDA­RINSKY
3. PEAK, HEIGHT, ROUTE, ROUTE CHARACTER: MOS­KOVS­KA­YA PRA­VA­YA, 6075 m, NE SNOW SLOPE CHANGE. THERE IS, KOMe.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5B
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: ELEVATION GAIN: 1400 m, LENGTH: 1720 m, LENGTH OF 5b/6a sections 1000 m — slope, 320 m — ice. AVERAGE STEEPNESS: 67°, I–20 sections — 78°, 1–20–82°
6. PITO­N­S DE­PEN­DENCY:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class
2. Ascent area — technical. Central part of the mountain range, between the peak to the Southwest and the saddle to the East.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Ularg, 4320 m, via the bastions of the North face.
4. Expected difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 1100 m, length — 1212 m, average steepness — 68°. Length of sections: 2 — 70 m, 3 — 25 m, 4 — 460 m, 5 — 430 m, 6 — 227 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: for belaying
   • rock — 104