Route Description

Climbing to the summit of Dzhangtugan via the Northeast Ridge, category 3B From the Dzhangtugan alpine camp, ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Adylsu River, then cross to its right bank via a natural stone bridge. Follow the trail along the right bank to the "Green Hotel" clearing, near the Dzhankuat Glacier. The journey from the Dzhangtugan alpine camp takes 2 hours. From the "Green Hotel," ascend along the ridge of the right lateral moraine of the Dzhankuat Glacier to the platforms at its end (Snowy bivouac). From the Snowy bivouac, traverse a snowy slope, bypassing a rocky massif on the left, and reach a saddle on the northeast ridge, a 2-hour journey. From the saddle, ascend a snowy slope for 4 ropes to the bergschrund, then 20 meters to the start of the rocks. From there, follow a rocky ledge left for 1 rope to an internal corner 2.5 meters high, from which ascend left and upwards towards a gendarme (4 "glove" pitches), bypassing it on the left and upwards through moderately difficult rocks (1 rope). Reach the top of the gendarme (control cairn). Continue through broken rocks to a distinct reddish gendarme (4 ropes, control cairn). From it, descend into a gully (4 meters) and then ascend through rocks to the ridge. Traverse 20 meters along a snowy-icy slope and ascend 3 ropes through icy rocks with small holds. Continue for 4.5 ropes under the pre-summit tower along a snowy-icy slope. Approach the tower from the left through rocks (control cairn) - challenging climbing - and reach indistinct black rocks. From there, ascend 5 ropes along a rocky ridge to the summit - 5-6 hours. Descend via the category 2A route along the left part of the couloir (pitons for protection, 4 ropes). Then descend down a snowy slope and exit onto the glacier. From there, return to the Snowy bivouac. The descent takes 3 hours. Special equipment for 4 people:

1. Main rope 240 m
2. Auxiliary rope 5 m
3. Rock pitons 4-6 pcs.

37. Traverse of the Elbrus massif with ascent to Kyukyurtly via the South Face (route by V. Nekrasov, cat. 5B). The path from the Terskol village (group of 4 people) to the Khotyutau pass is described in route 32. From the Khotyutau pass, without descending into the Ullukam mouth, turn right and ascend the rocks of the Khotyutau saddle, then traverse the avalanche-prone glacier descending into the Ullukam mouth. Behind it, exit onto the ridge descending left into the Ullukam mouth between the avalanche-prone glacier and the Ullukam glacier. Along this simple scree ridge, descend to the left lateral moraine of the Ullukam glacier. From the Terskol village, 10–12 hours. Bivouac on the moraine. From the moraine, exit right onto the Ullukam glacier, cross it

B.­Yuy­yu­ka­ra

on the left side of the NW wall

Ascent Log

1. Category: technical
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su valley
3. Peak: Ullukara (4302 m)
4. Route: via the center of the western face (S. Nagornyy's route), 5B cat. diff., 2.4.176(a)
5. Elevation gain: -682 m. Distance: -1170 m. Length of sections with VI cat. diff.: -80 m. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route (pillar): 50°

REPORT

On the ascent to the summit of Ushba Mala via the SOUTH face, accomplished from July 23 to 30, 1971, by a team from the "Elbrus" alpine camp in the technically complex ascents category at the USSR Alpine Championship. Uzhhorod 1971 262.3(18)

1. Team Members' Data

Passport

1. Class of winter ascents.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. North Ushba via northwest wall (Kolomyttsev V.G. route)
4. 6A difficulty category.
5. Height difference — 1600 m. Length 2300 m. Length of sections:

• 5–6 cat. diff. — 1320 m
• 6 cat. diff. — 840 m

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — TECHNICAL 2. Ascent Region — CENTRAL CAUCASUS 3. Ascent Route — Ushba North (4694 m) VIA NORTH-EAST FACE through the "STOLB" (pillar) 4. Presumed Difficulty Category — 6th cat. diff. 5. Route Characteristics: ELEVATION GAIN

• 1150 m EXTENT OF SECTIONS I and II cat. diff.
• 620 m

I. Climbing class — technical. 2. Climbing region — CENTRAL CAUCASUS. 3. Peak — SOUTH USHBA — 4710 m. First ascent route along the edge of the Western wall through the "pillar". 4. Proposed difficulty category — 6. 5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 1460 m (3250 — 4710). Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1270 m, including 6th category — 735 m. Average steepness: route — 68–70°, wall section ("pillar", grey wall, canopy) — 90°. Total 850 m. 6. Driven pitons and used stoppers

344029, Rostov-on-Don, 1st Cavalry Army St., "Planet" club, A.G. Pogorelov

Ascent Log

1. CLASS — technical
2. ASCENT AREA — Central Caucasus
3. OBJECT OF ASCENT — Ushba South and North with ascent via the right part of the southwest wall 6B cat. diff. (Kustovsky's route)
4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 6B
5. HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 1450 m
6. DISTANCE — about 3000 m
7. PITONS DRIVEN: ROCK — 136/44