Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — Rock Climbing 2. Ascent Region — Fann Mountains, northern ridge of the nodal peak Aurondag in the Zeravshan Range 3. Peak — Urech, height — 3400 m, route — via the northeast wall 4. Proposed Difficulty Category — 3B 5. Elevation Gain — 450 m, average steepness — 40° 6. Pitons Hammered: for belaying for creating artificial anchor points

Brief description of the route approach:

• From the base camp at Alaudin lakes, follow the trail to Mutnye lakes (3 hours).
• From the overnight stay at Mutnye lakes, ascend via the scree couloir (snowy at the beginning of summer), to the left of the Fagitor peak wall, to the level of large snow shelves - 20-30 minutes.

Map of the ascent area

700 m, 2/25, 45° slope, 29 cm, 10 hours. 9/11-797. 15. Sazanov +5 people (1B) Table of main characteristics of the ascent route

Brief explanation for the table

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area - Fan Mountains, Zeravshan Range
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: p. Chapdara, 5297 m, via the center of the Southeast-Eastern wall
4. Estimated difficulty category: 6B cat. diff.
5. Characteristics of the wall section of the route: height difference - 1050 m, length of sections 5-6 cat. diff. - 1005 m, of which 6 cat. diff. - 510 m, average steepness of the wall - 80°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying - rock - 168, bolt - 6, for creating ITO - rock - 31, bolt - 3
7. Number of climbing hours - 66
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 1 - on a rock ledge, sitting, without water; 2,3 - on a rock ledge, sitting, without water;

International Alpine Tourist Center "Vertical-Alaudin"

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Chapdara - Bodkhona, 5B, traverse (V. Ashanin's route, 68)

Report

on the first ascent of the Chapdara - Bodkhona traverse with ascent to Chapdara via the north ridge and descent from Bodkhona to the Bodkhona saddle, Fan Mountains, Pamir-Alay

Chapdara Peak. North Ridge

2005–06 MATC "Vertical-Alaudin" All Rights Reserved

Ascent to Chapdara Peak (5197 m) via the north ridge

Verkhnyaya Baika and Chaniyagina

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, its height, ascent route — Mt. YUBILEYNAYA, 3600 m, via the northern ridge.
3. Proposed difficulty category — 1B.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, total route length — 900 m, average steepness — 35°.
5. Pitons hammered in: for belaying — 4 pcs.
6. Number of climbing hours — 6 hours.
7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: none.

The hike from the Gas Lagoon to the foot of Nuluar took 1 hour and 20 minutes. From the foot of Nuluar, the group started ascending along a fully scenic autumn route and followed the dry stream bed to Chyorny Vodopad (Black Waterfall). The ascent from the foot of Nuluar took 1 hour. From Chyorny Vodopad, which falls into Nuluar on the right-hand side, the ascent continued in the direction of the layered paldor. The steel outcrops in Nuluar were bypassed on the right. The route lay across grassy slopes and sedges. Using a dusty layered podr, two supporting shinon grassy shelves branch off from Nuluar to the right and upwards. After 120–150 meters, the group reached a narrow, steep nuluar leading upwards, and then moved onto a grassy field. From here, the ascent continued upwards, and the distant goal came into view - the goldny grobeny, offering a panoramic view. Here, the group rested. (The ascent from the waterfall took 1.5 hours) From the "eslno" shoulder, the group moved along grassy sections (200–300 meters) and snowy snowfields (400–500 meters) in the direction of a narrow, illuminated, descending section, which led to the southwest ridge. They then followed the illuminated descending section, leaving the "barany lby" (ram's foreheads) on the right, and reached the pre-summit trebiy. (The ascent from the "eslno" shoulder to trebiy took 1 hour and 20 minutes) The builder on the upper section of the polotoy osnya, the group entered the sntopik on the snsnnuyu pereminu.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class

• Rock climbing

2. Ascent Area

• Pamir-Alai, Fann Mountains

3. Ascent Route — North face of peak Arg — third ascent — 5B category of difficulty
4. Ascent Characteristics height difference 1100 m; average steepness of the wall 80°, length of complex sections 870 m.
5. Pitons Driven rock 194, ice –, bolted 6

— 2 — The foaming distribution follows this pattern:

• Nn-lp­ppp­purov
• Tu­tup­ppp­-lsr- li­s
• Aran­chso­v-Јi­lov Then count by (2) and (3). The section is not very long, 30–40 m, but steep. At the pass, all the participants of Катьцит and Перопутная started at 9:00. Then they moved along the gully, traversing the funnels of Перопутная and Медведна (4) and (5). The ascent to the peak Бпо­б — (6) is done via destroyed slopes with simultaneous belay. We reached the peak at 14:30. We started descending from the peak at 14:30. We descended to the ridge below the funnels of Бпо­б and Бо­две­дна. From this point on, we descended, roped together, along a gentle slope that descends to the river Бпо­б. Further, we followed the right bank of the river Бпо­б or a trail through a clearing with a rainforest. We returned to camp at 15:40. V N O L N

1. The ascent to the peak Бпо­б via the western ridge is a Category 2A route.
2. The height of the peak is approximately 440 m.

In the up­per reaches, the val­ley is nar­rowed by snow, there are few trails. View of the summit and saddle see Fig. I. From the bivouac to Gusev's saddle — 4–4.5 hours of walking. From Gusev's saddle, move straight up in the direction of and along the ridge between Pik Chyorny and v. N. Ganz. At the glacier's ascent, there are many hazardous sections on the ridge, partially covered with snow. Movement without crampons is possible. One should move in rope teams, with occasional use of transverse belay. From the ridge, move left onto the snowy ascent (2 ropes), then to the summit (2 ropes), which is a rocky ridge: to the north and northeast — a firn dome, divided by a small saddle into western and eastern summits, both having small rocky outcrops. The summit drops off with sheer rocky walls to the north and southwest. Time from Gusev's saddle to the summit — 2–2.5 hours. In good weather, the summit offers a panorama of all the peaks in the Sansarsky Mountains system. To the northeast, the massive array of Bolshaya Gavza is visible, along with the spurs of the pyramid of Pik Krasnykh Zor. To the north and northeast are visible:

• Pik Chyorny,
• p. Zarnok,
• Meropo,
• v. Chintarga,
• p. Energiya,