USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1981

High-altitude technical class

Shakhdarin Range — Peak Luknitskogo (5800 m) via the center of the western wall (first ascent)

Team of the Sports Committee of the Tajik SSR

Leader: V.I. Lavrukhin. Coach: V.I. Galaktionov. Dushanbe — 1981 BRIEF GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION AND SPORTS CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT OBJECT Peak Luknitskogo (5800 m) is located in the middle part of the Shakhdarin Range, in the main ridge, between the peaks 5962 m (Peak Soviet Youth) to the east and 6038 m (Peak Baikonur) to the west. From the summit, the following relief forms extend in different directions:

• To the northwest, a ridge descends steeply, dividing the northern valleys of the Seyj (with Luknitskogo Glacier) and Jarf (with Jarf Glacier) rivers.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: High-altitude technical 2. Ascent Area: Southwestern Pamir, Shakhdarin Range 3. Peak, its height: Peak Luknitskogo, 5800 m. Ascent Route: center — West Wall 4. Proposed difficulty category — 6 5. Route Characteristics: elevation gain — 1460 m, average steepness — 70°, route type — combined, section lengths: 6th cat. diff. — 525 m, 5th cat. diff. — 400 m 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, including for standing on (ИТО) rock — 280, ice — 21 (into ice), bolt — 6, chocks — 117 7. Total hours of climbing — 77.5 (including acclimatization day)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — South-West Pamir
3. Peak; its height, ascent route — Peak Luknitskogo 5800 m, North face
4. Proposed complexity category — 6B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1630 m, avg. slope 70°, section lengths:
   • 3rd diff. cat. — 190 m
   • 4th diff. cat. — 330 m
   • 5th diff. cat. — 620 m
   • 6th diff. cat. — 400 m

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category: high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent area: Pamir, Shakhdarin Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak Luknitskogo, 5800 m via the North face.
4. Estimated category: 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections with 5th cat. difficulty — 770 m, 6th cat. difficulty — 310 m, average steepness 68°.
6. Pitons used: for belaying — 275 rock, 8 ice; for creating artificial anchors — 16 rock.
7. Total climbing hours: 37.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 3 bivouacs: #1 — on the wall, semi-reclining, uncomfortable; #2 — on the wall, reclining; #3 — on the summit, reclining.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, their qualification:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge — South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin.
3. Peak, its height, route — Pik Luknitskogo, 5800 m, ascent via the North face.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1600 m, average steepness — 70°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1040 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying for creating ITO rock 140 pcs., ice 3 pcs., bolted — —

Brief Description of the Area

The Soviet Pamir is divided into three parts:

• eastern,
• central,
• western. The central part of the Pamir is a highly elevated desert plateau, with destroyed mountains of 5000–5500 m height. The plateau is surrounded by chains of high mountains with sharply dissected relief. The Western part of the Pamir differs sharply from the Central Pamir. Comparatively low northern slopes of the ridge with calmly flowing rivers suddenly abut against the sheer walls of the main ridge. This part of the Pamir remains a poorly studied area. The goal of the Russian Spartak expedition was:
• more detailed study of this area,
• educational and sports high-altitude ascents,

To the Classification Committee of the USSR Alpine Federation Moscow

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF MARX PEAK (6726) VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE ON THE SOUTH-WESTERN PAMIR, MADE BY THE COMBINED TEAM OF ALPINISTS FROM THE DNEPROPETROVSK REGIONAL COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS. August 1–16, 1971

3. Climbing Passport

1. Climb category – high-altitude technical.
2. Climbing area – Shakhdarin Range, Pamir.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route – peak "Medoviy" (peak 5350) via the Eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category – 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 1250 m, average steepness – 30°, section lengths – R1–700 m, R2–300 m, R3–25 m, R4–150 m, R5–8 m, R6–200 m, R7–45 m, R8–400 m, R9–350 m.
6. Pitons hammered for protection: rock – 10, ice – 0, bolt – 0.
7. Number of climbing hours – 9.

6. Meidak­ (5112 m). Descent from the slo­pes 6. Mtsinda *rotop­anapar «ZENIT-E», weath­er «umgye­tap-50-2»,

Moscow City Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society

Peak Bastilia via the western counterfort and the edge of the northern wall (first ascent)

5B category of difficulty Team captain: Master of Sports Pissulov D.B. Team coaches:

• Master of Sports of International Class Kovtunenko V.D.
• Master of Sports Martynovsky A.A. 1975

Area diagram