Report

on the ascent of Mt. Fisht Maly (2554 m) via the western ridge, made by the team of the KubSTU "Shturm" climbers' club, Krasnodar first ascent, approximately 3A category of difficulty

Climbing Passport

1. Western Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai, 2.1
2. Peak Fisht Maly* (2554 m**) via the western ridge
3. Proposed - 3A category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Route character: rock
5. Route elevation gain – 490 m

Fig. 5

2. Ascent to the summit of Severny Aksaut (3540 m) from the northeast - category 2B (see Fig. 5)

From Domai through the Jalovchat pass and descent to the "barany lby" (ram's foreheads) above the Jalovchat glacier - bivouac. From Domai campsite 7-8 hours. From the bivouac descent to the Jalovchat glacier and further, crossing it in the direction of the Severny Aksaut summit, to the rocky outcrop. To the left of the rocky outcrop upwards and along the glacier to the eastern spur of Severny Aksaut. Ascent along the destroyed rocks of the spur to the right - upwards 80-90 m, then exit to the right onto the glacier (the glacier is cut, crevasses, insurance!) and along the glacier to the right - upwards - exit to the rocks. Then:

• through the bergschrund (insurance!) ascent along the destroyed rocks (insurance through ledges, местами крючьевая!);
• further along the snow - exit to the Severny Aksaut pass. From the bivouac on "barany lby" 4-5 hours. Further see the description of the ascent to the summit of Severny Aksaut from the northwest.

Recommendations for climbers

Climbing Passport

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — Main Caucasus Range from Marukh pass to Nakhara pass (Western Caucasus)
3. Peak, its height, Alibek-Bashi peak (3782 m). Ascent route via the North face
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation gain — 420 m
   • Average steepness — 60°
6. Pitons hammered — 6 rock pitons
7. Number of climbing hours — 8–9 hours

REPORT

on the ascent of Mt. Amanaus via the Main route on the East wall (“Dvuzubka”, control and evaluation route by Kavunenko, category 5B), made by the instructors of “Alibek” alpine camp Sorokin A.G. and Akhtyrsky O.A. from August 1 to 4, 1977.

Explanations for the table

The table of main characteristics shows the indicators of the route taken from August 1 to 4, 1977. Leaving the bivouac under the wall on August 1, 1977 at 8:00, the group started moving along the route without prior processing. After the preceding bad weather, the passage of the beginning of the route was difficult due to:

• fresh snow on the rocks;
• flow ice. The wall is lit by the sun from 6:00 to 12:00 and by the end of this time it is practically clear of fresh snow. For insurance and creation of belays, 8 piton hooks hammered in by previously passing groups were used. The group did not hammer in their own pitons, and they consider bending the lugs of the pitons to be impractical. The following groups will have to hammer them in approximately the same places, which will slightly complicate their passage, but will lead to cluttering of the route.

Route to the summit of Belalakaya via the Eastern ridge, cat. 4–5

Route to the summit of Belalakaya via the Eastern ridge, cat. 4Б

Mt. Belalakaya, 3861 m. 120 m, 20°, 1. 40 m, 70°, +4. 20 m, 30°, –2. 80 m, 60°, 3. 80 m, 60°, –4.

1. Class — technical.
2. North Caucasus, Aксаут gorge.
3. Peak Yuzhnye Bratcy via left eastern counterfort.
4. Proposed — Category 2B difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 600 m, length — 880 m. The average steepness of the route is 45°; maximum steepness in areas — up to 70°.
6. Pitons were not left on the route.
7. Climbing hours on the route — II.
8. Overnight stays on the route — none.
9. Leader: Timonin Sergey Nikolayevich, 2nd sports category.

Fig. 32

6. Ascent to the eastern peak of Dzhuguturluchat (3800 m) from the north — cat. dif. 3B (see Fig. 32)

From the saddle to the left of Iné peak along the plateau upwards along the northern ridge to a wide (50° slope) ice-snow couloir, crossing a bergschrund and up the ice-snow couloir to a snow pad on the northern ridge (belay; in the second half of summer — ice, ice screws, crampons!). Further along the ridge and through a destroyed gendarme (2 pitons, rockfall hazard!) on the ridge — exit under the obelisk of the summit. After the gendarme, left along a steep snow patch (belay, in case of ice — ice screws!) 60–70 m and exit onto rocks. On the rocks:

• ascent to a narrow couloir going up (2 pitons!)

Dombay (W), center of the N wall — Zhiltsov A.G. Caucasus 2.2 Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Caucasus
3. Dombay (W), along the center of the N wall (Gubanova route), with a traverse to Dombay (Gl)
4. Complexity category – 6B
5. Height difference: 1500 m, length: 1990 m. Length of sections with 6A–6B complexity category – 475 m. Average steepness of the route – 65° Average steepness of sections with 6A–6B complexity category – 85°

Ascent Passport

I. Rock class. 2. Western Caucasus. 3. Mt. Dombay Eastern (3950) via the center of the North Face (Gubanov's route). 4. 6B category of complexity. 5. Height difference 1460 m, route length 1710 m, length of sections with 5-6 category of complexity 892 m, average steepness of the route — 64°, average steepness and height differences of sections: Lower wall 60° (2490-2950), central wall 78° (2950-3390), edge 50° (3390-3670), summit tower 70° (3670-3950). 6. Pitons hammered: rock screw-in, ice screws

PASSPORT

1. Class — rock
2. Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass.
3. Peak Dombay Eastern, 3950 m, via the Centre of the North wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6.
5. Height difference: 1350 m, length 1905 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 850 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 63° (2600–3923 m), of which 5–6 cat. diff. (2600–3400 m) — 68°.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolts | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :------: | | 169 | 4 | 109 | 1 |