1. Class of traverses
2. South-West Pamir, Ishkashimsky Ridge
3. Traverse of p. Kiik-Bal-Khana (5100 m) – p. Bezymanaya (5170 m) with ascent to p. Kiik-Bal-Khana via the western ridge, combined ridge route.
4. Proposed - category 2B difficulty
5. Height difference — from the start of the route to p. Kiik-Bal-Khana — 550 m, from p. Bezymanaya to the end of the descent — 800 m, length of traverse between the peaks — 1100 m, length of sections with category 4 difficulty — 200 m.
6. Pitons hammered: Rock 20 — Chocks 40 —
7. Number of travel hours — 13.
8. Without overnight stays
9. Ascent made by a pair:

28

Georgian Climbing Club

named after A. B. Japaridze

Class of Traverses

Traverse

Peak "Nablyudeniy" (5579 m) – peak "Fersmana" (5700 m) – peak "Bezimyannyy" (6010 m) – Oshanina massif (6390 m) – peak "30th Anniversary of the Soviet State" (6447 m) – peak "Moskva" (6785 m) – peak "Soyuz-Apollon" (6047 m) – peak "Dushanbe" (5456 m) with ascent to peak "Nablyudeniy" via the southeastern counterfort (first ascent) Team of the Georgian Climbing Club named after A. Japaridze Leader: D. Dangadze, Master of Sports Members:

• G. Abashidze, Master of Sports

Report

on the traverse of peaks Engel'sa — Marx — Shakdarinsky Ridge — Pamir (first ascent).

1. Geographical Location and Sporting Characteristics of Peaks Engel'sa and Marx

a) Geography of the Area. Both peaks are located in the Shakdarinsky Ridge, stretching in a latitudinal direction, and are its highest peaks.

• Height of peak Marx — 6726 m.
• Height of peak Engel'sa — 6510 m. The Shakdarinsky Ridge is a watershed between the Pyanj River basin (to the south) and the Shakdara River basin (to the north). Lateral ridges extending from the arrays of peaks Marx and Engel'sa divide the northern slopes into three valleys: Khatsak, Shaboy, and Nispar (from west to east). Thus, both peaks are accessible from the north only from the Shaboy valley. Here, both peaks drop with huge walls to the foot of the Marx Glacier. The peak arrays rest on granite foundations, resulting in exceptionally extensive sections of sheer walls and a blocky rock structure. Individual monolithic blocks in the array of peak Engel'sa reach 500 m. The slopes of the ridge are covered with powerful glaciation, and numerous ice falls are present, especially in the area between peaks Marx and Engel'sa. However, the relief of the Marx Glacier does not contain significant difficulties. The slopes of peaks Marx and Engel'sa from the north represent routes of the highest category of difficulty, but ascent by these paths is possible only after thorough reconnaissance.

I. CLIMBING CLASS

• traverse 2. CLIMBING REGION
• 0.3. Pamir

3. CLIMBING ROUTE

• traverse of peaks 5745 — 6138 — 6038 — 6105 with ascent to peak 5745 via the southeastern ridge.

4. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE CLIMB

• route length 9 km
• total elevation change of the traverse route — 3425 m

Moscow Regional Council of the Zenith Voluntary Sports Society

Traverse

• Peak 5600
• Peak 5682
• Peak 50 Years of the Armed Forces (Central Pamir)

Team Composition

• Pugachev V.A. — II sports category — team leader
• Kuzmin A.S. — I sports category — team member
• Makhnovich L.A. — II sports category — team member

ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Technical Class. 2. South-West Pamir, Shugnan Ridge. 3. Traverse of peaks Dzhirain (5329 m) and 5100 m with ascent to peak Dzhirain via the South-East buttress. 4. Estimated difficulty category 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference: 1400 m (Dzhirain), 400 m (p. 5100) section length:

• total 3500 m
• 5th category 325 m

Ascent Log

1. East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Muguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Munku Sardyk — Krylya Sovetov peak traverse via the North ridge.
3. Category 2B difficulty, second ascent.
4. The route is of a combined nature.
5. Height difference 500 m, distance 3130 m, average slope 10°.
6. Pitons used: 3 rock and wired pitons.
7. Team's travel time — 12 hours.

Ascent Certificate for the Strelnikov Peak 3284 m – Ostriv Damanskyi 3276 m traverse via the Western slope, category 3B.

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Ganga Khairyim valley, section 6.1.2.
2. Strelnikov Peak 3284 m – Ostriv Damanskyi 3276 m traverse via the Western slope.
3. Proposed category 3B, first ascent.
4. The route is characterized by rocky terrain.
5. Elevation gain 400 m, distance 1130 m, traverse distance 0.5 km on the map, average slope — traverse.
6. 27 rock and wired pitons used.
7. Team's total climbing time — 10 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Team members:

Report

On the first traverse of the Altyn-Mundarga peaks via the NW ridge - Perm - Ulan-Gol 3A cat. by the team "Невозможно это не навсегда" (It's impossible not to be forever) on March 28, 2019

I. Climbing Report

Report form for routes of 1B–3B category of complexity.

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMITS GAYDUK – BASMACH VIA THE SOUTHERN RIDGE, TRAVERSE, ORIENTIRING 3B CATEGORY OF COMPLEXITY BY THE TEAM OF BAIKAL ALPINISM SCHOOL ON OCTOBER 11, 2018. Irkutsk 2020

I. Climbing Report