Report
On the first traverse of the Altyn-Mundarga peaks via the NW ridge - Perm - Ulan-Gol 3A cat. by the team "Невозможно это не навсегда" (It's impossible not to be forever) on March 28, 2019
I. Climbing Report
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Nikolaev Evgeny Alexandrovich 3rd sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Maslova Anna Alexandrovna badge Kalashnikov Andrey Yuryevich Kurushin Alexander Yuryevich |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich |
| 1.4 | Organization | Gory Baikala (Baikal Mountains) |
| 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object | ||
| 2.1 | Region | Eastern Sayan, Tunkinkiye Goltsy ridge |
| 2.2 | Valley | Ulan-Gol |
| 2.3 | Section number according to the 2013 classification table | |
| 2.4 | Name and height of the peak | Peak Altyn-Mundarga (3157) - Peak Perm (?) - Peak Ulan-Gol (?) |
| 2.5 | Geographical coordinates of the peak (latitude/longitude), GPS coordinates | 51.800533 101.426815 |
| 3. Characteristics of the Route | ||
| 3.1 | Name of the route | Traverse of Altyn-Mundarga peaks via NW ridge - Perm - Ulan-Gol |
| 3.2 | Proposed category of difficulty | 3A |
| 3.3 | Degree of route exploration | First ascent |
| 3.4 | Nature of the route terrain | Combined |
| 3.5 | Height difference of the route (altimeter or GPS data) | 750 m |
| 3.6 | Length of the route (in meters) | 3500 m |
| 3.7 | Technical elements of the route (total length of sections of varying difficulty with terrain type) | 1st cat. diff., rocks - 2650 m; 2nd cat. diff., combination - 700 m; 3rd cat. diff., rocks - 150 m |
| 3.8 | Descent from the peak | Along the diagonal ledge near Ulan-Gol peak to the Ulan-Gol river. |
| 3.9 | Additional route characteristics | Lack of water |
| 4. Characteristics of the Team's Actions | ||
| 4.1 | Time on the move (team's walking hours, in hours and days) | 14 hours |
| 4.2 | Overnights | none |
| 4.3 | Start of the route | 5:00, March 28, 2019 |
| 4.4 | Reaching the peak | Altyn-Mundarga - 12:30 Perm - 14:00 Ulan-Gol - 15:00 |
| 4.5 | Return to base camp | 19:00, March 27, 2019 |
| 5. Responsible for the Report | ||
| 5.1 | Full name, e-mail | Nikolaev Evgeny Alexandrovich j3ffcoat1@gmail.com |
II. Climbing Description
1. Characteristics of the Climbing Object
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- icefall
2. Characteristics of the Route
To access the route, one must ascend along the Ulan-Gol river to the NW ridge of Altyn-Mundarga peak and bypass it. The ascent to section R0 is done via scree from the right side of the ridge to the left side of the "sharp" gendarme.
Then, proceed in rope teams along the ridge with simultaneous movement and terrain protection. Move along the ridge to section R1, then continue on the right side of the ridge. Climbing difficulty category 2.
After two "false" pre-summit ascents, reach the ridge and continue movement until the gendarme. Then, descend slightly and bypass the gendarme on the right.
Next, there is a 150 m section of 3rd category difficulty. Belay stations are on large rocks. The key section of the route is near the "arch". One must pass to the right of the inclined slab via a small internal corner.
After the key section, descend to the left part of the ridge and continue ascent on the left part for about 50 m. Then, return to the ridge and proceed to the summit. The summit is marked by vertically standing boards and has a control cairn with a note.
Descent from the summit towards Ulan-Gol peak is via scree. There is no control cairn on Perm peak, but there is one on Ulan-Gol peak.
Descent from Ulan-Gol peak is along an inclined scree slope to the left in the direction of descent.
