1982 USSR Alpine Championship Technical Climbing Category

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE 5250 M PEAK VIA THE EAST FACE BY THE "ALAY" ALPLAGER TEAM Leader Coach Kavunenko V.D. Kavunenko V.D. Moscow 1982 For inquiries related to this report, please contact:

5. Assault team and observation group composition. | # | Full Name | Year of Birth | Sports Rank | Responsibilities and Participation in Events | | :-: | :------------------- | :-----------: | :---------: | :------------------------------------------- | | 1. | Lapshin L. L. | 1943 | MS | Team Captain and Coach | | 2. | Lavrukhin V. I. | 1948 | CMS | Deputy Captain | | 3. | Tkachev V. K. | 1937 | MS | Participant | | 4. | Korzhavin A. P. | 1939 | CMS | Participant | | 5. | Kim T. | 1947 | CMS | Did not participate | | 6. | Filipov A. K. | 1947 | CMS | Did not participate | Observation Group:

ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent category — Winter ascents.
2. Ascent region — Gissar Ridge, Surkh-Kuz spur.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Peak Surkh-Nu (2980 m) via the Eastern ridge.
4. Estimated category difficulty — 1B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1380 m, average slope 30°–35°, length of sections: R1 — ... m, R2 — 2500 m, R3 — ... m, R4 — ... m, R5 — ... m, R6 — ... m.
6. Pitons hammered in:

Report

on the ascent of the regional council's alpine team to Khodja Lokan for the championship of the Central Council

30a

Passport

Kolcherek Route

1. Class: technical.
2. Fann Mountains.
3. Peak Bodkhona, 5304 m, via the right part of the West Face, rock climbing.
4. Cat. difficulty 5B.
5. Height difference 834 m, route length 1763 m, wall section 983 m. Section lengths:
   • 5th cat. diff. — 616 m

V. Zamok, 5B, via the shortest path up the NNE wall (A. Plotnikov's route, 82)

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai. Eastern Fan Mountains, Zamok peak (5070 m) — via the shortest path up the NNE wall
3. Proposed complexity category — 5B
4. Height difference of the wall section — 950 m. Length of the wall section — 1115 m. Total route length — 1675 m. Length of sections with V–VI category difficulty — 690 m, including VI category — 275 m. Average wall slope — 67°
5. Pitons driven: | Pitons driven | For belay | ITO |

Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude and technical.
2. Climbing region — Fann Mountains.
3. Summit Chapdara — 5297 m via the eastern face.
4. Difficulty category — 6
5. Elevation gain: from the base of the face to the summit — 1300 m, face height — 860 m, average steepness of the face — 85°, length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 640 m.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 219, ice — 8.
7. Number of climbing hours — 47 hours.
8. Number of nights on the route — 3 nights.
9. Team members:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical.
2. Northern spur of the Eastern Fan Ridge.
3. Peak — Chapdara, height 5297 m, via the central part of the Northern wall “KOLODETS”.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 6B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2200 m, length of sections with V cat. diff. — 320 m, length of sections with VI cat. diff. — 530 m, average steepness — 85°.
6. Pitons hammered for belaying: rock and wired — 185 pcs., bolted — 6 pcs., ice — 9 pcs. For creating artificial points of support: rock and wired — 68 pcs., bolted — 11 pcs.
7. Number of climbing hours — 101 h.
8. Number of overnight stays — eight, sitting and semi-reclining.

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range, Alaudin valley
3. Chapdara peak, 5050 m, NW wall (left route)
4. Category of difficulty — 6B
5. Height difference of the route — 1740 m. Length — 1960 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1330 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 73° (3300–4930), including 6 category of difficulty:

• 75° (35 m)
• 80° (40 m)
• 90° (175 m)
• 95° (60 m)

21 TC-6

USSR Alpine Championship 1973

Kshmysch via North Face

Report on the Ascent by the Leningrad City Committee for Physical Culture and Sports

Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Route

Kshmysch peak, 5300 m, is one of the highest peaks in the Matcha mountain cluster. It is located almost in the center of the Turkestan ridge between the peaks "25 лет ПНР" and Mushketov, and naturally closes the Kshmysch river gorge. The simplest path to the summit is via the Ivanov pass along the northeast ridge, category 4B. To the north, the massif drops off in an almost sheer wall with a height difference of 1800 m. The wall has significant glaciation. The rocks are heavily weathered. The possibility of traversing this wall, the main alpinist object in the area, is problematic due to both the high technical difficulty and the complexity of choosing a safe route (the wall is exposed to rockfall). In 1972, a team from Novosibirsk attempted to traverse the wall but managed to pass only a small part of the lower bastion before being forced to descend (see photo 1).