72. Main Dykhtau via the West Ridge — Cat. 4B (B. Garf, G. Vedennikov, G. Velikson, A. Davydov, S. Kalinkin and V. Kustovoi — August 23, 1940). The route from the “Bezengi” alpine camp to “Russkie nochyovki” is described in route 71. From “Russkie nochyovki”, 15–20 m up the West Ridge of the Missestau peak, then 120–150 m along the horizontal ledge on its right side — exit onto the glacier plateau. Across the glacier plateau to the right under the slopes of the North Ridge of Dykhtau (avalanches! icefalls!). The North-East counterfort descending from the North Ridge is traversed along simple rocks, under the wall of the rocky ascent of the counterfort. Further along the glacier, then up a steep 100-meter ice-and-snow

Description of the ascent route to peak Kankosheva 3920 m via the Eastern edge (from KOSHTAN pass) – 3A category of difficulty.

From the overnight stay behind the moraine - into the moraine gap, exit to the Ullu-Auz glacier. Cross the glacier in the direction of the KOSHTAN pass. From the glacier - along the talus and snowfields, exit to the plateau below the KOSHTAN pass. From the plateau - along the snowy slope, passing the bergschrund on the right. Reach the KOSHTAN pass (replace the note in the cairn on the pass). From the pass - right and up along the wide snowy ridge. The first gendarme is bypassed on the left along the snow. The second - first a 10-15-meter traverse to the right, then 10 m straight up the plate and 30 m along the rocks of medium difficulty - exit to the gendarme's saddle. From the saddle - a 40-meter traverse along the ledges on the left side of the gendarme with an exit to the shoulder of the South counterfort. Along the steep rocks of medium difficulty 30 m up to the gendarme. Further - 50-70 m along the sharp snowy ridge - exit below the walls of the third gendarme. First, bypass it on the right along the boundary of ice and rocks to a 12-15-meter ledge. From the ledge - 50 m up the plate, then a traverse into a 70-80-meter couloir, which leads to the saddle. From the saddle - up a 15-meter cleft to the gendarme. From it - down to the ridge after 20–25 m. Further - up along the simple rocks of the ridge. The fourth gendarme is ascended straight up (40 m), then - bypassed by a 60-70-meter traverse on the left along the ledges and rocks of medium difficulty through the South counterfort with an exit beyond the gendarme to the saddle below the rocky ascent of peak Kankosheva. From the saddle - straight up 15 m along the difficult rocks of the counterfort. Further - 40 m along a 4-meter cleft - ascent to the Eastern peak of Kankosheva.

58. Krumkol via the West Ridge — Category 4B difficulty (N. Chekmarev and V. Proshina — August 23, 1938; Fig. 19). The path from the "Bezengi" alplager to the Krumkol glacier below the saddle of the West Ridge of Krumkol peak see in description 42. The path from the fork of the Dykhsu and Karasu gorges see in description 43. On the Krumkol glacier below the saddle of the West Ridge of Krumkol peak — a bivouac. From the glacier, ascend via the snowy slope and easy rocks on the left side of the counterfort, left of the snowy couloir descending from the saddle of the West Ridge of Krumkol peak, then via steep snow and moderately difficult rocks (pitons!) upwards — exit right onto the counterfort. Ascend via easy rocks of the counterfort. After 60–70 m, descend into the snowy couloir and ascend via it, sticking to the left rocks. From the bend of the couloir, 70–80 m upwards via the rocks on its left side (pitons! "live" rocks!), then left — upwards onto the snow patch of the counterfort. From it, upwards via moderately difficult rocks of the counterfort. From under the wall, traverse right and upwards through the couloir onto the rocks on its right side (pitons!). Via smoothed 50-meter rocks, ascend to the West Ridge of Krumkol peak (pitons!). From the initial bivouac — 6–7 hours. From the saddle, ascend via the easy snowy West Ridge of Krumkol peak. The first gendarme is passed via easy rocks of the ridge. Further:

• 200–220 m upwards via the snowy-icy ridge (cornices!) and slope under the second gendarme;
• via steep moderately difficult rocks — 40-meter ascent to the gendarme and from it, a 20-meter descent;

LYALVER, 4350 m, via NE ridge (from N. Tsanner Pass), Cat. 2B diff. Initial bivouac — on the edge of the rocky side of the Lower Tsanner icefall (point 3). From N. Tsanner Pass, move along the snowy NE ridge, to the right of the ridge line, to a rocky outcrop. Leaving the outcrop on the right, ascend 200 m up a snowy-icy slope with a slope angle of up to 45°, reaching the rocks. Ascend the rocks 300–350 m to a snowy ridge and continue up the ridge to the summit. From the pass, 3–4 hours. Descent via the ascent route — 2 hours.

XXXIV USSR Championship on Ice and Snow Climbing P place, 8.221 points, August 17, 1983

Report

On the ascent of Mt. Mizhirgi Eastern (4918 m) via the left part of the North face — the second passage by the MAL "Kavkaz" team. Leader: Markelov V. V. Coach: Dobrovolsky L. N. 1983 International Alpine Camp: Address: 121069, Moscow, Skaterny per., 15 Phone: 290–23–67

7. Traversing the Kostan-krest ridge from Pik Mira to Tютюнбаши with an ascent to Pik Mira via the Northern counterfort - 4B category of difficulty (A. Naumov, E. Varfolomeev, I. Kudinov, E. Sokolovsky, V. Shutin, and V. Shutov - July 22-24, 1961; Fig. 36). The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to Pik Mira is described in route 106. From Pik Mira, descend west along a 150-180-meter sharp snowy ridge (cornices!) and 80-meter steep rocks (sporting descent) to the saddle between Pik Mira and Truda. From the saddle, traverse 200-250 meters along a heavily jagged rocky-snowy ridge (cornices!) with 3-5-meter rocky and small snowy gendarmes, which are overcome along the ridge. After a 7-10-meter drop, ascend along a sharp snowy ridge, then along a slope that transitions into a 60-80-meter sharp snowy ridge with small rocky outcrops over 150-200 meters. Continue along rocks of medium difficulty and a snowy ridge to ascend to Pik Truda. From Pik Truda:

• descend 25-30 meters along rocks of medium difficulty,
• then ascend to a small gendarme,
• from it, make a 40-meter sporting descent to a saddle. Further:
• traverse along rocks of medium difficulty with many small gendarmes, which are bypassed along shelves or overcome directly along 2-5-meter walls and 35-meter slabs (hook!) - descend into a drop. In the drop - a bivouac. From the Truda pass - 10-12 hours. From the drop:

Missees-Tau via North Ridge, Cat. 4B

From the base to the bivouac sites at the turn of the glacier under the base of the SE ridge of Brnoe Peak – 2.5–3 hours. Rounding this ridge from the left, ascend the grassy slope, then along the stream bed into the moraine-filled cirque of the glacier flowing from the South cirque of Brnoe Peak. Here, near the moraine lake, there are bivouac sites. Up the glacier tongue. The icefall is bypassed on the right along the boundary with the rocks (provided there is snow), or via rock-and-scree ledges. For training purposes and safety, it is recommended to traverse the icefall through the center, roped and with piton belays. The initial bivouac is in the South cirque, from the sites at the turn – 3–4 hours. An alternative initial bivouac is possible on the last snow col in the Brnoe–Missees-Tau ridge, the ascent to it from the cirque takes ~1 hour. In its lower part, the broad North ridge of Missees-Tau is covered with a glacier, which has several rises and ends in drops on the west and rock walls on the east. The second rise leads to a rock "island", from which a snowy ridge goes left, ending in rocks on the eastern wall (routes Cat. 5A and 5B also lead here). Move 30–40 m left of the right edge of the ridge, reaching the col of this ridge. At the left end of the ridge, on the boundary with the rocks, there is a bivouac site. A safe place to spend the night during a thunderstorm, protected from the wind, is in the bergschrund under the col. From the plateau – 3–4 hours.

Orta-Kara (4250 m) via NE ridge — Category 2A

From the Besengi alpine camp to Kель Pass, where the night's stay is. Depart from the bivouac for the summit at 3–4 am. The start of the route coincides with the start of the route to Салынан via the 3rd ridge. You need to descend to the plateau and head towards the saddle between the peaks Салынан and Орта-Кара. Follow the wide snowy couloir leading to this saddle, keeping to the left (in the direction of travel) side, and then to the left branch, exiting onto the saddle. The further path along the ridge is to the left. The ridge is initially snowy and not steep. Move along the right (north) side of the ridge, then along the ridge. The snowy ridge gives way to rocky terrain. The rock is straightforward, but there are many loose stones. The last gendarme — the subpeak — is bypassed on the left via ledges. After the saddle, ascend to the summit via simple but heavily broken rock. From the ridge to the summit takes 3–4 hours. Descend via the ascent route to Кель Pass and back to the camp.

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.