Missees-Tau via North Ridge, Cat. 4B

From the base to the bivouac sites at the turn of the glacier under the base of the SE ridge of Brnoe Peak – 2.5–3 hours. Rounding this ridge from the left, ascend the grassy slope, then along the stream bed into the moraine-filled cirque of the glacier flowing from the South cirque of Brnoe Peak. Here, near the moraine lake, there are bivouac sites. Up the glacier tongue. The icefall is bypassed on the right along the boundary with the rocks (provided there is snow), or via rock-and-scree ledges. For training purposes and safety, it is recommended to traverse the icefall through the center, roped and with piton belays. The initial bivouac is in the South cirque, from the sites at the turn – 3–4 hours. An alternative initial bivouac is possible on the last snow col in the Brnoe–Missees-Tau ridge, the ascent to it from the cirque takes ~1 hour.

In its lower part, the broad North ridge of Missees-Tau is covered with a glacier, which has several rises and ends in drops on the west and rock walls on the east. The second rise leads to a rock "island", from which a snowy ridge goes left, ending in rocks on the eastern wall (routes Cat. 5A and 5B also lead here). Move 30–40 m left of the right edge of the ridge, reaching the col of this ridge. At the left end of the ridge, on the boundary with the rocks, there is a bivouac site. A safe place to spend the night during a thunderstorm, protected from the wind, is in the bergschrund under the col. From the plateau – 3–4 hours.

From the col, ascend to the rock "island". The island is bypassed on the left, continuing on a snowy ridge crest that abuts the rocks of the summit tower. It is possible to bypass the island on the right (steep!). From here, ascend the rocks for 40 m (rappel ring), then along a ledge left along the East wall (there is a campsite on the ledge), at the end of the ledge through a cleft, then up a rocky couloir to the North ridge (there is a rappel ring on the ridge, right of the couloir). 50–60 m of rock, then snowy ridge lead to the summit.

Descend via the ascent route to the rappel ring on the ridge, rappel to the ledge, along the ledge to its end, rappel to the snowy ridge crest, along the crest to the rock "island", descend a bit and make a third rappel to the snow, then to the bivouac site. Ascent and descent take 6–8 hours.

Further descent is along the right edge of the glacial ridge. The last three ropes are rappel descents, the last one leading out of the bergschrund.