58. Krumkol via the West Ridge — Category 4B difficulty (N. Chekmarev and V. Proshina — August 23, 1938; Fig. 19).

The path from the "Bezengi" alplager to the Krumkol glacier below the saddle of the West Ridge of Krumkol peak see in description 42. The path from the fork of the Dykhsu and Karasu gorges see in description 43. On the Krumkol glacier below the saddle of the West Ridge of Krumkol peak — a bivouac.

From the glacier, ascend via the snowy slope and easy rocks on the left side of the counterfort, left of the snowy couloir descending from the saddle of the West Ridge of Krumkol peak, then via steep snow and moderately difficult rocks (pitons!) upwards — exit right onto the counterfort. Ascend via easy rocks of the counterfort. After 60–70 m, descend into the snowy couloir and ascend via it, sticking to the left rocks. From the bend of the couloir, 70–80 m upwards via the rocks on its left side (pitons! "live" rocks!), then left — upwards onto the snow patch of the counterfort. From it, upwards via moderately difficult rocks of the counterfort. From under the wall, traverse right and upwards through the couloir onto the rocks on its right side (pitons!). Via smoothed 50-meter rocks, ascend to the West Ridge of Krumkol peak (pitons!).

From the initial bivouac — 6–7 hours.

From the saddle, ascend via the easy snowy West Ridge of Krumkol peak. The first gendarme is passed via easy rocks of the ridge. Further:

• 200–220 m upwards via the snowy-icy ridge (cornices!) and slope under the second gendarme;
• via steep moderately difficult rocks — 40-meter ascent to the gendarme and from it, a 20-meter descent;
• upwards via the sharp rocky-snowy 200-meter ridge (cornices!) with a 40-meter ascent via steep snowy rocks to the third gendarme and via several steep icy-snowy rises under the base of the rocky massif.

On the snowy ridge under the rocky massif — a bivouac.

From the saddle to the exit onto the West Ridge — 5–6 hours.

From here:

• via easy and moderately difficult, местами крутым скалам — 120–140 m upwards (pitons!) onto the summit of the rocky massif and from it, a 25-meter (sporting) descent via rocks onto the snowy ridge;
• further 80 m via the rocky-snowy ridge and via steep 40-meter snowy rocks (pitons!) — ascent to the fourth gendarme;
• from it, 30 m down and 200 m up via the snowy ridge (cornices!) with a "dome" in the middle part — onto the fifth gendarme;
• from the gendarme, 40–45 m down via the icy-snowy couloir (pitons!) onto the snowy West pre-summit plateau;
• from the plateau, via the easy rocky-snowy ridge — ascent to the summit of Krumkol.

From the bivouac under the rocky massif — 5–6 hours.

Descent via the South Ridge — see in description 57.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants — 4–8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — Krumkol glacier.
3. Departure time — 4–5 am.
4. Equipment: main rope — 2 × 40 m; auxiliary cord — 10 m; rock pitons — 6–8; ice pitons — 2–3; rock hammer — 2; carabiners — 8–10; crampons — 4 pairs; tent — 1.5. Bivouac sites — on the saddle — the exit point onto the West Ridge, on the ridge behind the first rocky massif, on the West plateau of the summit, and on the South Ridge.