Ascent of Misses-Tau via the right counterforter of the East face, 5B cat. diff. (Climbing report)

From the base to the campsite at the turn of the glacier under the base of the SE ridge of p. Brno — 2.5–3 hours. From here, along the edge of the 3rd branch of the Mizhirgi glacier (Cheget-Mizhirgi) to the icefall. Then:

• Ascend to the upper cirque via "ram's foreheads" and moraine slopes to the right of the streams.
• On the moraine ridge of the upper cirque — the initial bivouac site, 1.5–2 hours from the turn. From the bivouac, ascend the moraine slope and snow (ice) to the glacier plateau under the E wall. Across the plateau, move left along the rocks towards the debris from the couloir between the left and right counterforts of the E wall. Up the avalanche cone to the throat of the couloir. Via "ram's foreheads" to the right, 15 m under the wall — a shelter. 65–75 m up and to the right on smoothed, partially grass-covered, fairly difficult rocks, under the overhanging wall to the right of the water runoff. Traverse left (12–20 m) and then bypass the overhangs to reach a wide green ledge under the broad wall that blocks the ascent. From the start of the rocks to this point — 130 m.

Peak Oktabrenok via NW wall — 5B (3890) The transition from the "green camps" of Dumala gorge via l. Ululu-Auz to the big rocky island, to the left of the buttress of p. Pioneer, takes about 1 hour. Ascent through the bergschrund and then up the steep snowy slope (50%) about 5–6 ropes to the right of the rocky island - the shoulder of p. Pioneer with an exit to its summit. Here is a safe place to spend the night and a good observation point. From here:

• 2 ropes up to the right of the rocky tongue with an exit into the couloir
• 60 m of easy and moderate difficulty rocks along the couloir
• The next 80 m of moderate difficulty path should be traversed, rising gradually above the couloir by 8–25 m, partially using rocky ledges. Insurance from the start of the entrance to the couloir is only крючьевая [hook] and very strict. Movement along the right wall of the couloir at a height of up to 25 m is quite reliably protected from falling stones and possible ice falls from the left glacier. The bend of the buttress of p. Pioneer protects from falling stones from the right. It is from the bend that the dangerous sections begin, requiring clear, quick work, the section of transition to the lower part of the wall of p. Oktabrenok. On the day of reconnaissance and processing, the group worked on the route for 6 hours. The ascent path was processed up to the angle of turn of the right wall of the couloir. 120 m of rope were hung. 10 hooks were hammered.

Route Description

First ascent to p. Pushkin (5100 m) on the southern wall (approximately 56 k.tr.) Group a/l "Bezengi" under the leadership of Gorevsky N.N.

Route Description

From the camp along the trail or through the middle of the Bezengi glacier to the so-called "Austrian camps", then through the "sickle-shaped moraine" by the usual path leading to the Sella pass, to the plateau under Pushkin Peak. From the camp 8–9 hours. The wall of Pushkin Peak, in its lower part, is a triangle dissected by a narrow vertical couloir. The height of the lower part of the wall is about 700 m. The route passes along the right side of the wall. The beginning of the route goes along a snowy slope, to the right of the avalanche chute, through the bergschrund, and then along rocks of the "sheep's forehead" type to the base of an inclined shelf leading upwards to the right. Further along the shelf to its end (8 ropes). The shelf ends with a snowy slope going into the couloir. Without entering the couloir:

• straight up the icy rocks (2 ropes);

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — from Kitlod settlement to Gezevcek settlement.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Sella, 4382 m, via the South ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B.
5. Route characteristics:      height difference — 450 m      average steepness — 55°      length — 530
6. Pitons hammered in: for belaying, for creating, etc.

Peak Semenovsky via the NE ridge, 2A

From the Dzhangi-Kosh hut, follow the trail down, cross over the S. spur of peak 4050, descend 150 m down the gully between the slope and the right-bank moraine, then head right and up along the mudflow and avalanche deposits along the W. slopes of the spur into the S. cirque of Peak Semenovsky — 4050, 1–1.5 h from the hut. Ascend via talus and snowfields to the NE edge of the cirque, under the couloir descending from peak 4050. Follow the snow-rock boundary (on the left) up the couloir (watch out for falling rocks on the right) to the saddle on the NE ridge, left of peak 4050. Along the rocky ridge with simultaneous belay on rock outcrops (caution: heavily deteriorated rocks) through a series of low "gendarmes", about 1 h. The last "gendarme" is bypassed on the right with piton belay. Then, along a wide snowy ridge with outcrops of deteriorated rocks — a gentle ascent to the summit, 5–6 h from the hut. Descent is via the S ridge, as described earlier. Hazardous places:

• Couloir — prone to rockfall
• Rocky terrain — heavily deteriorated
• Possible ice on the descent from the summit in the couloir and on ledges Special equipment — 3–4 rock pitons.

144. Tutyurgiu South via South-East Ridge

(a rock route by A. Naumov, cat. III difficulty, figs. 14, 16). The path from the Bezengi alp camp (a group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac in the upper circus below the tongue of the East Shaurtu glacier is described in route 142. Having moved 150–200 m left of the base of the South-East ridge of Tutyurgiu South peak, turn right and enter a narrow rocky couloir on the left side of the South-East ridge of Tutyurgiu South peak. The route follows:

• easy slabs,
• broken rocks of the couloir,
• a 7–8-meter smooth slab (easy rock section),

The first ascent of the Western and Eastern peaks and the traverse of the Uralochka massif was made from July 14 to 18, 1961, by a group consisting of:

1. Ryazanov V.V. - group leader, Master of Sports.
2. Ryabukhin A.G. - 1st sports category.
3. Samokhvalov V.V. - 1st sports category.
4. Benkin V. - 1st sports category.
5. Chernov V.I. - 1st sports category. The Uralochka peak is located in the ridge separating the Ullu-Auz and M. Ukyu cirques, between the Archimedes (4100 m) and Dumala-Tau (4557 m) peaks. The elevation above the M. Ukyu glacier is 700 m, and above the Ullu-Auz glacier is 800 m. The Uralochka peak is a double-headed peak: the Western peak (4270 m) is connected by a 200-meter saddle to the Eastern peak (4300 m). To the north (into the M. Ukyu cirque) from the Western peak, there are tile-like slabs covered with ice and snow; to the south (into the Ullu-Auz cirque), there are walls. The rocks forming the massif are granites with a high quartz content. The cracks are shallow and worn out. The surface of the rocks is rough and pockmarked, resembling the surface of syenites.

3. Ural 3 — v, traverse, 4B.

From the Ukju-kosh hut, follow the trail up the gorge to the KSP Golubjatnja bivouac, then along the M. Ukju glacier to the slope leading to Ural pass — 1.5–2 hours. Up the middle of the snow-ice slope (attention: covered crevasses, rockfall hazard at the edges, especially to the left of the first "gendarme" of the 3rd ridge of Ural peak) into the hollow under the pass, from it — up the steep ice-snow slope (30–40 m) to the pass; from the glacier — 1–1.5 hours. From the pass, ascend left to a gendarme, then along the ridge to the col under the wall of the 3rd summit; a bivouac site is possible here. From the pass — 1 hour. From the col, 4 m left and up to a square boulder, up the inner corner (or left of it) to a ledge, along it 4–5 m, right of a rock awning 5 m up to a trough-like ledge, left and up under a red rock. Right of it, up the corner and on the right side of the wall to a control cairn (35 m from the col). From the cairn, up the slabs and along ledges traversing left under the wall, along the ridge to a red "gendarme" and bypassing it on the left. Behind the "gendarme", straight up 5 m via a chimney and 15 m up the inner corner, then 7–8 m up smooth rocks to a slab with a 40° slope. Along the lower edge of the slab, traverse 15–17 m along a crevasse to the right, up the slab along a vertical wall, 3 m up an overhanging wall (artificial aid) and another 20 m up monolithic rocks to the summit ridge. Along the ridge for 60 m to the 3rd summit. From the col — 4–6 hours. Descent to the E — 40 m rappel, then along the snowy ridge under the E summit. Ascent to the E summit along the ridge; 40 m before the summit, traverse right along a ledge and, bypassing the summit from the S, reach the shoulder of its E ridge.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Bezengi
3. Peak — Shaurtu Glavnaya via the right edge of the South ridge wall
4. Difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference from Bezengi alpine camp is 2150 m average steepness 60° length of 4th difficulty sections — 30 m, 80 m, 90 m
6. Pitons hammered: 13 rock, 2 ice, 6 chocks

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Adyr-su gorge, section 2.4.1.
2. Peak Dzhailyk, left part of the 3rd wall of the Yugrebnya shoulder.
3. Difficulty category: 5B.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference — 730 m; route length — 1000 m. Length of sections: 5th diff. cat. — 50 m, 6th diff. cat. — 75 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 85°, entire route — 55°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 4, including bolted — 1. Pitons used on the route: