144. Tutyurgiu South via South-East Ridge

(a rock route by A. Naumov, cat. III difficulty, figs. 14, 16). The path from the Bezengi alp camp (a group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac in the upper circus below the tongue of the East Shaurtu glacier is described in route 142. Having moved 150–200 m left of the base of the South-East ridge of Tutyurgiu South peak, turn right and enter a narrow rocky couloir on the left side of the South-East ridge of Tutyurgiu South peak.

The route follows:

• easy slabs,
• broken rocks of the couloir,
• a 7–8-meter smooth slab (easy rock section),
• below an inner vertical corner,
• a 10–12-meter inner corner with moderately difficult rocks,
• an 8–10-meter chimney with a rock plug at the top (ascent with piton belay) to ledges.

From the ledges:

• easy rocks lead to the South-East ridge,
• steep but easy and simple broken rocks of the ridge lead to the summit of Tutyurgiu South.

From the initial bivouac — 5–6 hours.