Tina­yyol ha­ya­ra­ra MAPUPST From the upper Kpchkpdarsky bivouacs, crossing the Zapadnыy — Su glacier, we approach the summit of Dhaidik from the west, to a narrow snowy ascent, where the route begins.

• In the lower part of the couloir (20–40 m) we ascend via a large jammed stone. We overhang this stone on the left (possibly on the right).
• Along the right -300 wall of the couloir, we ascend to its upper part (40 m).
• In the upper part, we move to the left side of the couloir onto a steep ledge (psychological moment). Insurance is through a crook. The transition is carried out by stepping over the couloir.

115. Map for the Eastern Ridge Route (Combined Climb, Category 2A Difficulty, Figures 5, 13)

From the "Bashil" tourist base (group of 4-12 people), approach the confluence of the Bashil and Jailyak rivers. From here, ascend via a steep trail on the left bank of Jailyak, leading into the valley of this river. Continue along the valley, cross the river via a bridge near a shepherd's hut to the right bank of Jailyak, and follow the trail along steep "sheep's foreheads" to the point where the Kenchat River joins Jailyak from the right. Bypass the "sheep's foreheads" from the right, ascending to a grassy shoulder, and from there, traverse across scree slopes, partially overgrown with grass, to reach the moraines of the Kenchat gorge. Ascend via the moraines and then a simple, long glacier of Kenchat to its upper cirque. From the "Bashil" tourist base, the journey takes 7-9 hours. From the glacier, ascend via a wide, scree-filled couloir (prone to rockfall) to the right onto the Eastern Ridge of the Kayarta peak. Here, turn left and follow the heavily degraded Eastern Ridge, featuring several straightforward, not very tall gendarmes that can be overcome directly (with protection), to reach the summit ridge. From here, ascend along the gentle, simple, degraded rocky ridge or a snowy slope on the right side of the lengthy Eastern Ridge to the summit of Kayarta. Route Components:

• Ascend via a scree-filled couloir (prone to rockfall) to the Eastern Ridge
• Traverse left onto the Eastern Ridge
• Overcome gendarmes along the Eastern Ridge using protection
• Reach the summit ridge

111. Kenchat via the North Ridge

(combined route, 2A cat. dif., fig. 5, 13) The path from Tyrnyauz (group of 4–20 people) through the Tyutysu gorge to the rocky plateau in the upper reaches of the gorge is described in route 106. From the plateau, turn left and first follow the Tyutyu glacier, then traverse the gentle moraines and scree to reach the foot of the Northern branch of the Tyutyu glacier, which flows from the Kilar pass. Set up the initial bivouac here. It takes 4–6 hours from the last grove. From the bivouac, ascend to the Northern branch of the Tyutyu glacier and follow its right side to reach the upper snow plateau. Traverse the plateau (watch for hidden crevasses) to approach the saddle of the Kilar pass between the Kenchat peak on the right and the Oryol peak on the left. From the plateau, overcome the bergschrund, then:

• ascend a steep 120-meter ice-and-snow slope (rockfall hazard),
• followed by straightforward traverse across broken rocks to reach the Kilar pass. The path from the Bashil tourist base to the Kenchat glacier is described in route 115. From the glacier, having traversed the bergschrund, ascend the ice-and-snow slope to the saddle of the Kilar pass between the Kenchat peak on the left and the Oryol peak on the right. At the pass, turn right (when ascending from Tyutysu) and reach the North Ridge of the Kenchat peak. Follow the ice-and-snow North Ridge (cornices, protection) to approach the first pinnacle, which is overcome directly via a 6–8-meter wall. Then traverse an 8–10-meter sharp snow ridge (cornice, protection) to approach the second pinnacle; ascend it via a 6–8-meter wall (protection). Continue ascending:
• along the partially sharp ice-and-snow North Ridge (large cornices),

Kichkidar via the Western Ridge, combined, 2A

Route Description:

The path from the "Ullutau" alpine base lies along the trail of the "Kullumkol" gorge, exiting to the "Nizhnie-Kichkidars" overnight camps on the Western Yunom-Su glacier, and then on to the "Nizhnee-Kichkidars" overnight camps. The journey takes 4-5 hours. From the "Verkhnee-Kichkidars" overnight camps, the path initially lies in the direction of the "Donkina" pass, with an ascent to the right part of the glacier and then towards the steep Western ridge. Approaching it, the glacier is heavily crevassed (travel strictly roped), we approach the right side of the ridge from the "Kichkidar" summit and ascend via ice and snow, bypassing the rocky wall at the base of the Western ridge and its first gendarme on the right. On the saddle, turn slightly right and then proceed along snowy slabs and, in places, steep rocks, heading towards the 2nd small gendarme; this is a control cairn. From it, upwards, bypassing the high gendarmes and walls on the left (belaying is mandatory), interspersed with snowy sections of the Western ridge, we reach the summit. The journey takes 4-5 hours. The descent from the summit follows the path of 2A cat. diff. to the "Zaitsev" To the "Verkhne-Kichkidarskie" overnight camps!

64. Kichkidar via the West Ridge (combined route, category 2A difficulty, Fig. 5, 7). The path from the Djailyk alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the upper plateau of the Zapadny Yunum glacier with a starting bivouac at "Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki" is described in route 73. Across the glacier plateau (closed crevasses), approach the right side of the steep West Ridge of Kichkidar peak. From the glacier, turn right and ascend the ice-snow slope, bypassing the rock walls at the base of the West Ridge and its I gendarme on the right. After passing the gendarme, turn left and ascend a 120-160-meter ice-snow couloir to the col of the West Ridge above the I gendarme. On the col, turn right, then across snowy expanses, destroyed and sometimes steep rocks alternating with snowy sections of the West Ridge, bypassing low gendarmes and walls on the left (with protection), ascend to the summit of Kichkidar. From "Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki" 3-3.5 hours.

Kichkidar-Yunom, combined, 3B

Route description:

The exit is from the Djailyk tourist camp, moving along the right (orographically) bank of the Kulumkol River past the cow shed and further along the moraines to the middle Kichkidar overnight stays near the Yunom glacier. Travel time is 2.5–3 hours. From the middle Kichkidar overnight stays:

• Up the glacier along the ridge, leaving it on the left;
• Exit via easy rocks to the saddle;
• Further up the snow-ice slope in the direction of the left gendarme of the "hare". The bergschrund under the "hare" is usually bypassed on the left. The time taken to move from the middle Kichkidar overnight stays to the left gendarme of the "hare" is 2–2.5 hours. From the left "hare", easy rocks on the pre-summit ridge lead to the summit of Kichkidar. The time taken for this section is approximately 0.5 hours. From the summit of Kichkidar, bypassing the "hares" on the right (belay!!!), move in the direction of the Yunomkara summit, keeping to the right side of the ridge (there may be cornices on the left) until the first gendarme of the three on the ridge, before the wall on the Yunomkara summit. Options for overcoming the gendarmes:

235. Kulak via the Northwest Ridge (V. Merkl's combined route, category IIIA, difficulty, fig. 18, 28).

The path from the Chegem tourist base (group of 4-8 people) to the lake at the foot of the Eastern Ridge of the Bodorku peak is described in route 233. From the lake, turn right and ascend, crossing the Western branch of the Kulak Glacier (closed crevices), to the right side of its Southwest branch. From here, ascend in the direction of the col of the False Twiber pass, located in the Main Caucasian Ridge (MKR) to the left (south) of the Twiber pass, on the right side of the heavily broken Southwest branch of the glacier. From the glacier, cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge and ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope (avalanches, rockfall) to the left side of the col of the False Twiber pass. The ascent is also possible via the rocks of the counterfort in the middle part of the col ("unstable rocks", protection). On the col, turn left and ascend via easy, simple rocks of the ridge to a platform. The initial bivouac is on the platform. From the Chegem tourist base, 8-12 hours. From the platforms on the col, ascend via the Northwest Ridge of the Kulak peak. From the col, 120-150 m upwards via simple rocks of the narrow Northwest Ridge, bypassing small difficult walls on the right ("unstable rocks", piton protection). Then, 300-350 m upwards via the wide, snow-covered, rocky Northwest Ridge to the North Shoulder (I pinnacle). From the shoulder:

• descent via a 50-60-meter ice-and-snow slope;
• ascent via a steep 50-60-meter ice-and-snow rise of the Northwest Ridge (cornices, piton protection) to the second North pinnacle. From the northern pinnacle-coudelle, a small descent via a simple, snow-covered, rocky ridge follows. Then, 50-60 m upwards via a steep ice-and-snow slope of the Northwest Ridge (cornices, piton protection) to the right side of the rocky wall of the summit tower.

233. Kulak via the Eastern Ridge (combined route by N. Popov, category III difficulty, fig. 18, 28).

From the "Chegem" tourist base (group of 4–8 people), ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Kulak River, then cross to the right bank via a bridge and approach the koshu along the trail. Continue along the right-bank moraine of the Kulak glacier. After fording the stream from the Chat glacier, approach the point where the Northwest Branch of the Kulak glacier merges with it from the right. Here, descend from the moraine to the left onto the glacier and, having traversed:

• the Northwest Branch of the Kulak glacier,
• the base of the Eastern Ridge of the Bodorku peak, reach a lake located under the left (southern) side of the base of the Eastern Ridge of the Bodorku peak. A bivouac is possible by the lake. From the "Chegem" tourist base, it takes 5–6 hours. From the lake, cross to the left (south) onto the exposed Western Branch of the Kulak glacier

209. Latsha via the East Ridge (combined route, A. Bespalova, category III difficulty, fig. 24, 30). From the initial bivouac at the Garvash Pass (route 205), turn left and approach the first rocky ascent of Latsha's East Ridge via scree. Ascend 200–250 m up simple, then moderately difficult (with protection) rocks of the East Ridge to the "Paltsev" gendarme. Bypass the "Paltsev" on the left and continue up moderately difficult rocks of the East Ridge to the second ascent. From under the second ascent:

• 20 m along a ledge to the left,
• then 35–40 m up moderately difficult rocks (with pitons) to the ascent,
• 150 m along the narrow snow-and-ice (with cornices) East Ridge to the third ascent. Overcome the third ascent directly up 20-meter moderately difficult rocks (with pitons). Continue along:
• 400–500-meter snow-and-ice East Ridge (with cornices) to reach the summit of Latsha. From Garvash Pass — 5-6 hours.

210. Latsha from the south via the East Ridge couloir (combined route, category II difficulty, fig. 24, 30). From the initial bivouac on the snow plateau below the Garvash Pass (route 205), ascend 250–300 m up the first steep snow-and-ice, then simple but crumbling rocky, wide south couloir from the Garvash Pass (avalanches, protection) to the East Ridge (with cornices) of Latsha.

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope: