Tina­yyol ha­ya­ra­ra MAPUPST

From the upper Kpchkpdarsky bivouacs, crossing the Zapadnыy — Su glacier, we approach the summit of Dhaidik from the west, to a narrow snowy ascent, where the route begins.

• In the lower part of the couloir (20–40 m) we ascend via a large jammed stone. We overhang this stone on the left (possibly on the right).
• Along the right -300 wall of the couloir, we ascend to its upper part (40 m).
• In the upper part, we move to the left side of the couloir onto a steep ledge (psychological moment). Insurance is through a crook. The transition is carried out by stepping over the couloir.
• Exit from the ledge to the left, onto the wall (20 m), with bolted insurance. Two ladders, zaB-20, and three bolted hooks are necessary for this section.
• From the bolted hooks, we move (1) up to the right (20 m). Insurance point.
• Descent to the left 2–3 m and exit up the wall 25–30 m onto a comfortable ledge, 30004 for a bivouac. Hook insurance.

Further, through a crack 4 m - exit onto a steep slab under the wall 3–4 m with the use of ladders, exit onto a steep ledge, width - 300 mm, 1 m, with a transition from it along the inner corner, length 40 m, which is passed with the use of ladders. Insurance is with hooks. In the middle part of the inner corner, a 40 is possible. We exit onto a wide ledge, where a bivouac is possible - a control cairn is located in a tin, which is hung on a bolted bracket. Further, straight up the steep wall (40 m) we exit under an overhanging cornice (2 m) into a crack.

The entire wall is climbed with thorough hook insurance and ladders. From the crack (from under the cornice) to the left onto a slightly overhanging spider-like wall (7 m), with the use of bolted hooks and ladders, we exit onto an inclined ledge - insurance point and a place for receiving backpacks.

To the left 10 m - an inclined ledge, where a bivouac is possible. No water.

Further movement is along the ledge to the left, along the inner corner (10 m), passed with one ladder, to a narrow chimney (10 m), with ice inside. It is climbed by free climbing with an exit onto a gentle wall (10 m), free climbing of medium difficulty. Insurance is with hooks.

We exit onto a comfortable platform, where we retrieve backpacks on a rope. Further - straight up simultaneously, insurance through a ledge, exit onto the route of 54 cat. tr.

Possible options for bypassing Kandar on the left:

• on the left - the standard path
• on the right - easier

The route is not prone to rockfall, practically passed with the use of advanced climbing techniques and specialized equipment.