233. Kulak via the Eastern Ridge (combined route by N. Popov, category III difficulty, fig. 18, 28).

From the "Chegem" tourist base (group of 4–8 people), ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Kulak River, then cross to the right bank via a bridge and approach the koshu along the trail. Continue along the right-bank moraine of the Kulak glacier. After fording the stream from the Chat glacier, approach the point where the Northwest Branch of the Kulak glacier merges with it from the right. Here, descend from the moraine to the left onto the glacier and, having traversed:

  • the Northwest Branch of the Kulak glacier,
  • the base of the Eastern Ridge of the Bodorku peak,

reach a lake located under the left (southern) side of the base of the Eastern Ridge of the Bodorku peak. A bivouac is possible by the lake. From the "Chegem" tourist base, it takes 5–6 hours.

From the lake, cross to the left (south) onto the exposed Western Branch of the Kulak glacier (closed crevices) and ascend along the Southeast Branch to beneath the North Ridge of the Kitlod pass dome, situated in the center of the saddle between the Kulak peak to the right and the Kitlod peak to the left.

From the glacier, two ascent options are possible:

  • Bypass the North Ridge of the dome from the left, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge, and ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope (belaying required) to the left of a rocky outcrop in its center onto the North Ridge.
  • Traverse the bergschrund from the right side of the ridge, reach the rocks on the left side of the ice-and-snow slope — a couloir descending from the North Ridge of the dome, and ascend via straightforward, heavily fragmented rocks, followed by an ice-and-snow slope onto the North Ridge.

From here, ascend along the gently sloping ice-and-snow North Ridge, followed by straightforward fragmented rocks — the ascent to the Kitlod pass dome.

On the pass dome, turn right and traverse along straightforward, easy, snow-covered rocks of the long saddle to reach the Eastern Ridge of the Kulak peak. From here, ascend along easy, straightforward rocks of the Eastern Ridge, bypassing three small gendarmes to the left via scree, and climb steep, straightforward rocks of the Eastern Ridge with 4 steep, short ascents of moderate difficulty (belaying required) onto the shoulder of the I gendarme. From the shoulder, traverse along the ice-and-snow (cornices) Eastern Ridge to beneath the summit ascent of the I gendarme. From here:

  • initially along ledges and straightforward rocks on the left side,
  • then via snow-covered, steep rocks of the Eastern Ridge — the ascent to the I gendarme.

From the Kitlod pass saddle, it takes 3–4 hours.

From the gendarme, descend along the sharp ice-and-snow 80–100-meter Eastern Ridge (cornice, belaying required) onto a saddle and approach beneath the summit ascent.

Ascend via steep, straightforward, and then three walls of moderate difficulty with short sections of above-average difficulty ("live" rocks, piton belaying) onto the ascent.

Further:

  • ascend along the steep ice-and-snow Eastern Ridge (cornices)
  • followed by straightforward rocks — the ascent to the Eastern shoulder of the Kulak peak.

From the shoulder, traverse along the 80–100-meter ice-and-snow Eastern Ridge with a slight descent to beneath the summit ascent.

Sources

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