111. Kenchat via the North Ridge

(combined route, 2A cat. dif., fig. 5, 13)

The path from Tyrnyauz (group of 4–20 people) through the Tyutysu gorge to the rocky plateau in the upper reaches of the gorge is described in route 106. From the plateau, turn left and first follow the Tyutyu glacier, then traverse the gentle moraines and scree to reach the foot of the Northern branch of the Tyutyu glacier, which flows from the Kilar pass. Set up the initial bivouac here. It takes 4–6 hours from the last grove.

From the bivouac, ascend to the Northern branch of the Tyutyu glacier and follow its right side to reach the upper snow plateau. Traverse the plateau (watch for hidden crevasses) to approach the saddle of the Kilar pass between the Kenchat peak on the right and the Oryol peak on the left. From the plateau, overcome the bergschrund, then:

• ascend a steep 120-meter ice-and-snow slope (rockfall hazard),
• followed by straightforward traverse across broken rocks

to reach the Kilar pass.

The path from the Bashil tourist base to the Kenchat glacier is described in route 115. From the glacier, having traversed the bergschrund, ascend the ice-and-snow slope to the saddle of the Kilar pass between the Kenchat peak on the left and the Oryol peak on the right. At the pass, turn right (when ascending from Tyutysu) and reach the North Ridge of the Kenchat peak. Follow the ice-and-snow North Ridge (cornices, protection) to approach the first pinnacle, which is overcome directly via a 6–8-meter wall. Then traverse an 8–10-meter sharp snow ridge (cornice, protection) to approach the second pinnacle; ascend it via a 6–8-meter wall (protection). Continue ascending:

• along the partially sharp ice-and-snow North Ridge (large cornices),
• or follow the heavily broken, easy, and straightforward rocks on its left side with several steep sections (protection).

Then proceed along the sharp snow North Ridge (cornice), which curves around the funnel of a couloir descending to the east (protection). Beyond the funnel, follow the rocky North Ridge with snow sections, straightforward and gentle (cornices), to reach the summit of Kenchat. It takes 2.5–3 hours from the pass. Bring 2–3 ice axes additionally. © Naumov A.F. Chegem — Adyrsu. 1980