Fizkulturnik - Chkalova, traverse, category 2B

Route description

From the initial bivouac in the Talgar Pass area, move along the Bogdanovich Glacier towards the saddle between Peak Komsomola and Fizkulturnik peak. From there, ascend to the ridge of Fizkulturnik peak, approach its base, and ascend to the southeastern summit. After descending, move along a relatively easy ridge towards the western summit of the Fizkulturnik massif. After ascending and descending from it, cross the cirque and ascend to the northeastern summit of Fizkulturnik. Then, the ridge, gradually rising, leads to the main summit. From it, descend to a sub-summit and continue descending to the left. The first gendarme after the main summit can be overcome directly or bypassed from the southern side (cautiously!). When ascending to the saddle between the first and second gendarmes, the section is hazardous (rockfall), and the rocks are heavily destroyed. The second gendarme is taken directly with thorough belaying. When descending from it, belaying is necessary; it is also possible to bypass it from the right - only if there is a deep snow cover closing the crevices. The following sections of the route:

• A gentle snow plateau in the upper reaches of the Til Glacier;
• Ascend between groups of rocks along snow-covered slabs;
• Move to the saddle between Fizkulturnik and Chkalova peaks;

Section 8

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: Technical. 2. Ascent Region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ak-Sai gorge. 3. V. Baychechekei, 4515 m, via the ice gully of the Western wall, ice route, winter ascent. 4. Presumed difficulty category — originally 5A. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — wall section — 320 m, total — 600 m, length of 5th category difficulty sections — 225 m, average steepness of the wall section — 65° 6. Pitons hammered: ice screws — 48, artificial elements — 5

Routes to the peak Izmaylovskiy

4400 m

3. Along the S.E. ridge 2A cat. dif. V. Vozopotov, 82

1. Along the W. ridge from the Severo-Izyumskiy to the Crown 3B cat. dif. V. Glukhov, 67 Snow-ice slope 40° 60 m
2. Along the center of the n.w. wall 3B cat. dif. V. Rodikov, 33 Snow-ice slope 45° 50 m

320 m 45–50°

85 m 45–50°

Оya­tsa ma­pu­rya­ta­po sections

Sect. 3. The start of the route is to the right of a pronounced rocky outcrop. The bergschrund wall is 3–5 meters. Then, along the icy slope, along the rocks to the right of K. Kelyugin's route, up the S wall, 3rd grade. Belaying:

• through ice screws Movement:
• on a double rope
• with the use of ice axes (French: piolet-traction is not mentioned but "айс-фи­фи" is translated as "ice fifis" or more likely "ice axes" in this context, but it is kept as "ice-fifi" or simply using "crampons" and tools for self-arrest) is not accurate here, so it is translated as "ice-fifi" Sect. 3. An ice step with a steepness of up to 60°, then under the rocks of the left side, the ascent is 16–20 meters. Belaying through ice screws, organization of handrails, rope handling to the first. In these areas, preliminary processing with 6 ropes. Sect. 3–6. Ice slope up to 55° along the rocky side. Entrance to the shoulder of the western counterfort. Before exiting to the shoulder, the steepness of the ice is up to 60°. Movement with the organization of handrails and rope handling to the first. Belaying through ice screws, using ice-fifi and ice axe. Control cairn in the area of section No.4. Sect. 8–10. Movement along the rocks, 3rd cat. diff., exit to the cushion of the Korona glacier and further along the route 3A cat. diff. to the Korona (I-ya) summit. Alternating and simultaneous movement, belaying through ice screws, rock pitons, and chocks. On the shoulder of the western counterfort — a control cairn. Sect. 10–12. Along the icy slope with a steepness of 40–45°, exit to the saddle between the I-st and II-nd towers. From the saddle, 1.5 ropes to the summit. Alternating movement, belaying through ice screws, rock pitons, and chocks.

From the foot to the col, there is a snow-ice slope with a lower section of 200 m at an angle of 30–35°, covered in snow. The slope's steepness gradually increases, and in its upper part, it has an angle of 40–45° with no snow. The length of this section is 400 m. 18 ice screws were hammered into the ice section, and it took 4 hours of working time. To the left of the route, there is a wall with a steepness of 80–90°, and beneath it, there is a talus covered in ice. It's impossible to traverse it with crampons. The col consists of two separate gendarmes with cornices that break off to the east. From the col, the path goes north along heavily destroyed and snow-covered slopes with a steepness of 50° and a length of 60 m. The rocks lead to a wall that ends in a ledge. From the ledge, the path goes left along the route into a narrow chimney with a steepness of 80° and a length of 6 m, formed by two smooth ice-covered slabs. Further on, the path leads to a smooth ledge with a steepness of 50°, covered in small talus. The length of the ledge is 7–8 m. Here, we hammer in a piton. In front of us, there is a two-meter wall that leads to a narrow chimney with a length of 10–12 m and a steepness of 60°; 3 pitons were hammered into the chimney. The chimney leads to a bolt, which drops off to the east with a sheer wall. Here, we organize a belay through a protrusion. On this section, 4 pitons were hammered in, and it was traversed in 2 hours.

Climbing Passport

1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ak-Sai valley
2. Peak — Trezubets 4500 m, right couloir, N side, 5A cat.
3. Proposed — 5A cat., first ascent
4. Route type — combined
5. Route description: elevation gain — 560 m, route length — 820 m, length of 5th cat. sections — 470 m, average slope — 55°, main part 65°
6. Equipment left on the route: total 2 rappel rings. Used stationary pitons — 0, removable pitons — 0. Total IT used — 0
7. Total climbing time — 14:30, days — 1

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge
2. Peak — Trident 4500 m, right couloir, N face, 5A
3. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 560 m. route length — 820 m. length of 5th category sections — 470 m. average steepness — 55°, main part — 65°
6. Left on the route: total 2 rappel rings. Used stationary pitons — 0, removable pitons — 0. Total usage of

Pik Moldova

Moldova is one of the peaks of the lateral spur between the eastern branch of Grigoryev Glacier and the rear wall of Chon-Turasu cirque. It drops to Chon-Turasu with a sheer 1000-meter wall: a sharp pyramid covered with snow rises 100–150 m above it. Towards the branch of Grigoryev Glacier, the peak faces a steep snow and ice wall with rock formations in the lower part. On both sides of the peak, the lateral spur has a gently sloping snow and ice ridge, transitioning into Bolshaya Wall peak to the southeast and into a fork with passes to the northwest:

• Chyorny (to the northwest);
• Moldova (to the northeast). The ascent to the peak is carried out along the right slope of Chon-Turasu (under the "Skala" and "Snezhnaya Trapetsiya" landmarks), along the eastern branch of the glacier to Moldova Pass and then directly along the ridge to the peak. All ascents can be completed in one day.

Pik Molodyozhny 2931 m

The peak is located in the Main Ridge and is part of the massif that bounds the middle part of Issledovatelei Glacier from the south. Pik Molodyozhny is completely covered with an ice cap, and the peak stands out from the massif. There are two characteristic rock outcrops on the lower part of the northern slope:

• the lower one is long, resembling a retaining wall, separating the glacier flowing from the peak from Issledovatelei Glacier;

1. Winter climb.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-su valley.
3. Ullu-tau Main peak summit to the right of the rocky islands on the northern wall (Maltsev's variant).
4. Snow and ice climb, complexity category 5B.
5. Height difference — 870 m, length — 1200 m, with category complexity — 860 m. Average steepness — 47°, with category complexity — 56°.
6. Pitons used: Ice screws (ice pitons) 120 0
7. Team's climbing hours — 11.5 hours (+ 5 hours of processing)
8. Overnight stays: at the initial bivouac.