Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Western Caucasus, Uzukol region.
3. Peak "Dalar", center of the northern wall of the bastion.
4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 1200 m, length - 1825 m (1935 m). Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 695 m. Average steepness of the main sections 85° (2900-3560 m): including sections with 6 category of difficulty - 415 m (2900-3080 m, 3110-3170 m, 3245-3270 m, 3300-3350 m, 3420-3525 m); 87° (2900-3080 m, 3300-3350 m, 3420-3525 m); 90° (3110-3170 m); 92° (3245-3270 m).
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice | | :--: | :----: | :----: | :--: |

2012 Ukraine Championship

Rock Class Classification Commissions:

• FALS of Ukraine
• FAR

Report

on the first ascent of the route to v. Dalar (3979 m) along the center of the north-eastern wall of the bastion (proposed 6A cat. diff.), made by the team of the Poltava Regional Federation of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing Leader: Pugachev S.A., MS, instructor-methodologist II category. Coach: Zagirnyak M.V., Honored Trainer of Ukraine, MS

2012

GRAN­DI­OSE TRA­VE­RSE! 0A, 1976

To the championship of Moscow 1973 TWIN PEAKS VIA NORTH-NORTH-WEST FACE 5B cat. dif. (Western Caucasus) Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of Soviet mountaineering Team of Moscow City Council of Spartak Volunteer Sports Society Kavunenko V.D. — Master of Sports of the USSR — team leader Parfenov V.P. — Candidate for Master of Sports Pozdnyakov A.A. — 1st sports category Ivanov N.V. — 1st sports category July 18–24, 1973

To the Classification Committee of the USSR Alpine Federation Western Dvoynyashka peak via the south-eastern wall, category 5B, first ascent Team from Krasnoyarsk "Spartak" Coach: MS ROZHKOV V.V. VLODARCHIK N.G. - team leader Team members:

• ROZHKOV V.V.
• VORONKOV D.A.
• PRUSAKOV S.M.

![img-0.jpeg]({"0": "width": 753, "height": 621, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/XjFEEecR0szAcq3IJwcyHTu7LfdyF9j7/img-0.jpeg", "id": 64745172}) REPORT ![img-1.jpeg]({"0": "width": 1376, "height": 131, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/0CM2EsSyu3RvBTLu8U5afLDlPPVJ90Dm/img-1.jpeg", "id": 64745173}) ON TRAVERSE OF PEAKS DALAR — DVOINYASHKA — ZAMOK

• ascent to Dalar via western wall
• to Dvoinyashka along the "edge"
• first ascent July — August 1968

Table of Contents

46

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — rock
2. Ascent region — West Caucasus — Uzunkol
3. Ascent route — Severny Dolomit 3710 m via the right part of the western wall, 4A category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Ascent description: route length — 930 m; wall height difference — 495 m; average wall steepness — 75°; length of complex wall sections — 295 m.

37

WESTERN DVONYASHKA

via the Western wall with an exit to the shoulder along the Northern wall July 19-26, 1965 www.alpfederation.ru

Introduction

I. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics

The Dvoynyashka massif (3900 m) rises as a separate double-peaked tower in the chain of peaks along the Main Caucasian Range: Kirpich–Dallar–Dvoynyashka–Zamok. The northern slopes of the massif, which are steeply sloping walls with an average steepness of 70–80°, feed the large Kichkinokol glacier, from which the Uzunkol river originates. The southern slopes are also steep and more eroded.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — West Caucasus, Gvandra region
3. Peak, route
   • Severný Dolomit — 3710 m via the center of the west wall bastion, approximately 5B category of difficulty — first ascent.
4. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation gain — 650 m.
   • Route length — 689 m.
   • Length of 5–6 category of difficulty sections — 424 m, including 270 m on the bastion itself.
   • Average steepness of the route — 70°, bastion — 82°.

REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. "Dzhailyk" (4533 m) via the Southwest Counterfort of the Western Ridge by the Dzhailyk Alpine Camp team (first ascent) Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich 1983 Alpine Camp "Dzhailyk" 360 000 Nalchik, P.O. Box 47 Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich 141 400 Moscow Region, Khimki, Aptechnaya St., 6, apt. 17 Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich