141. Lyalver — Tetnuld (the route is combined, by I. Shintlmeister, category 4B difficulty level, fig. 20, 22). From the village of Zhabishi, ascend via the trail on the left bank of the Tsanner River and, bypassing the first step of the icefall, descend onto the glacier. Along the left side of the glacier, approach the second step, which is traversed on its left side. The third step is also passed on the left via the snowy-icy slopes of the spur, and beyond it, exit onto the upper plateau of the Tsanner Glacier. On the moraine, in the center of the upper plateau, closer to the slopes of Tikhtengen on the Tsanner площадках (Tsanner sites), set up the initial bivouac. From the village of Zhabishi, it takes 10–14 hours. From the bivouac site, turn right

ASCENT TO PTITSA SUMMIT VIA NORTH RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B Route Description From the "3900*" campsite, head towards the upper plateau of the glacier. The fourth step of the icefall is climbed near the rocks of the West ridge of Kündüm-Mijirgi Peak ("bolts"!) or through the center of the glacier ("crevasses"!). Move left along the plateau towards the saddle between Ptitsa and Kündüm-Mijirgi Peaks. The ascent to the saddle is via a snow slope of 35–40°. (From "3900" campsite — 2–2.5 hours). From the saddle, ascend 200 m up the North ridge via moderately difficult rocks and snow (possible hidden ice!) to the base of a snow-and-rock couloir with flow ice in its lower part. The couloir starts 15–16 m to the right of the ridge. Climb 30–40 m up the couloir ("bolts", ledges!) and then continue along the snowy ridge ("cornices"!) to the base of a rock outcrop. From here, make a short traverse to the right and then ascend 30 m up the couloir ("bolts"!) to a snowy shoulder on the ridge. Then continue along the ridge to the pre-summit outcrop. From under the outcrop, traverse right and upwards along an 80 m snow slope towards an overhanging rock with a jammed stone. To the right of this rock, there is a rock wall that is climbed leftwards and upwards ("bolts"!). The total height of the wall is about 20 m. Then ascend a snow slope to the summit. From the saddle between Kündüm-Mijirgi and Ptitsa Peaks, it takes around 5 hours. Descent via the ascent route to the saddle takes around 3 hours. Equipment list for a group of 4: Rock bolts 6 pcs Ice screws 3 pcs Crampons 4 pairs

154. Ascent via the Northeast Ridge (combined route by N. Chekmarev, category 3B difficulty, fig. 14, 16, 17).

The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the upper plateau of the Salynan glacier with the initial bivouac on the talus above the glacier's tongue is described in route 152. Approach the saddle of the Salynan pass via the upper plateau. From the plateau:

• Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge
• Ascend 300-350 m up a steep left or right ice-snow couloir (possible avalanches, protection required)
• Reach the platform on the ridge connecting the Northeast ridge of Salynan peak Reach the saddle of the Salynan pass. The initial bivouac is on the ridge or the pass. From the "Bezengi" alpine camp, it takes 8-10 hours. The path from the "Chegem" tourist base to the areas at the end of the right-bank (orographically) moraine of the

155. Salynan via the East Ridge

(route is combined, category IIIB, fig. 14, 16). The path from the Bezengi alp camp (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Salynan Glacier is described in route 152. Approach the right side of the wide steep ice-and-snow slope via the plateau, descending from the East Ridge saddle to the left of a wide steep ice-and-snow gully with avalanche deposits. From the glacier:

• overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge,
• ascend the steep ice-and-snow slope to the right side of the lower rock cape,

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock-ice (combined)
2. Ascent region — Bezengi region, Kargashil ridge
3. Peak — Maly Salynan, height 4050 m
4. Ascent route — via the North Counterfort
5. Estimated difficulty category — 3B
6. Height difference — 720 m, length — 570 m, average slope — 40°
7. Pitons driven: rock — 10/0, ice — 17/0, chocks — 7/0
8. Number of travel hours — 13
9. Number of nights — route is one-day

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — from Kitlod settlement to Gezevcek settlement.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Sella, 4382 m, via the South ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B.
5. Route characteristics:      height difference — 450 m      average steepness — 55°      length — 530
6. Pitons hammered in: for belaying, for creating, etc.

From the "Djangi-kosh" hut along the crest of the right-bank ("crescent-shaped") moraine to its flattening, then along the Sella Glacier. Along the left edge or through the middle of the icefall (Fig. 1) exit to the upper circus (cautious — closed crevices) and through it under the N wall of the Sella peak, 1 h 31 min. Through the bergschrund along the ice-snow slope to the left of the ice fall with piton belay in the direction to the summit (attention — do not deviate left, rockfall hazard from the rocks of the NE ridge counterfort). Along the steepness, the route has sections: 1 — ice slope (120 m, 45–50°) from the lower bergschrund to the ice edge of the ice fall. 2 — ice slope (40 m, 50–55°) in the ice fall zone. 3 — ice-snow slope (80 m, 45°) from the ice fall to the upper bergschrund. 4 — ice-snow slope (120 m, 45–30°) from the second bergschrund to the summit ridge. The difference of edges of the second bergschrund along the path is 1.5–2 m, in the absence of bridges traverse right for 20 m — here the difference is smaller. Depending on the ascent timing, the length of the snow sections of the wall is 120–150 m, belay — through ice axes. For ascent 8–12 h. Descent from the summit along the NE ridge to the saddle, then along the slope to the right onto the Bezengi Glacier and along it (attention — closed crevices, under the S slopes of the Varshava peak — rockfall hazard) to the hut 1.5–2 h. Hazardous places: on glaciers — closed crevices and rockfall hazard under the S slopes of the Varshava peak, on the N wall of the Sella peak — rockfall hazard when deviating left, on the NE ridge — possible cornices to the right. Special equipment: ice axes 8–12 pcs., crampons — for all.

Sella peak — Warszawa peak, traverse.

From the “Jangi-kosh” hut through the “serac” moraine to the Bezengi glacier, along the left (in the direction of travel) side of the glacier (attention — closed crevices and rockfall hazard from the S. slopes of Warszawa peak), bypassing the bases of the three S. spurs of the main ridge, into the SW cirque of Bashha-aus-bashi. From the hut 2 hours 30 minutes. Through the bergschrund and along the snowy slope to the saddle on the NE ridge of Sella peak, leading to Bashha-aus. From the saddle, left along the snowy ridge with cornices on the left. On the pre-summit section:

• cross the ridge

Ural M via E ridge, 3B

From the "Ukyu-kosh" hut, follow the trail up the gorge to the "Golubyatnya" FSP shelter, here exit onto the Ukyu glacier, on it, keeping to the right side, ascend (200 m before) to the Ukyu pass, 2 hours (fig. 1). From the glacier, go right onto the "pillow" under the ridge leading from Ural p. to Dumala, ascend the snow-ice slope between rockfall (left) and avalanche debris (right) through a covered crevasse in the slope inflection zone and further along the bergschrund to the E edge of the "pillow". Cross the bergschrund, and then ascend 150 m up the ice-snow slope with a steepness of 50 to 30° along the rocky counterfort of the last gendarme onto the ridge, using ice screws for belay. Follow the snowy ridge with rock outcrops to the saddle under the summit tower. From the boundary of the snowy ridge with rocks, go left 5–6 m along the slabs and up 15 m along the sheer inner corner (belay via rock screws) to a ledge with a выступ. From here, ascend 40 m up the rocky couloir (attention: fragile rocks, possible snow) to the gap in the summit ridge and left — to the summit cairn. From the glacier 4–5 hours. Descent follows the ascent route, from the ledge to the saddle — "Dülfer" on a doubled 40-meter rope. To the meadow 2.5–3 hours. Hazardous areas:

• on the "pillow" — covered crevasses;
• on the summit tower — fragile rocks;
• on the snow-ice slope of the E ridge (when descending) — wet snow, avalanche danger. Special equipment:

80. Aylama via the Northeast ridge-slope (ice and snow route, G. Wullea, cat. 4A, fig. 5, 17). From the Aylama camps (camp 44) cross (closed crevasses) the Western branch of the Aylama glacier and, along the snowy slopes on the right side of the Western branch, move towards the Eastern walls of the Aylama summit. Here, turn right and, following the center, bypass numerous crevasses of the heavily crevassed Northwest short steep branch, which flows into the Western branch of the Aylama glacier, and approach the left side of the upper part of the Northeast ridge of the summit (closed crevasses). Then:

• 500–600 m upwards, keeping to the right side of the steep heavily crevassed ice and snow Eastern slope;
• ascend to the Northeast ridge at the point where it turns into the ice and snow slope of the summit dome. From here, ascend 300–350 m up and to the right along the steep ice and snow slope, bypassing ice cliffs and drops (avalanches, ice falls). Below are the ice falls of the North wall! Then turn left and, along the gradually flattening 400–500-meter snow slope (avalanches), reach the summit of Aylama. From the initial bivouac, 6–10 hours. M. Chertkov's group ascended to the Northeast ridge from the Dykhsu glacier. Fig. 17.