154. Ascent via the Northeast Ridge (combined route by N. Chekmarev, category 3B difficulty, fig. 14, 16, 17).

The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the upper plateau of the Salynan glacier with the initial bivouac on the talus above the glacier's tongue is described in route 152.

Approach the saddle of the Salynan pass via the upper plateau. From the plateau:

• Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge
• Ascend 300-350 m up a steep left or right ice-snow couloir (possible avalanches, protection required)
• Reach the platform on the ridge connecting the Northeast ridge of Salynan peak

Reach the saddle of the Salynan pass. The initial bivouac is on the ridge or the pass. From the "Bezengi" alpine camp, it takes 8-10 hours.

The path from the "Chegem" tourist base to the areas at the end of the right-bank (orographically) moraine of the Shaurtu glacier is described in route 149. From the areas:

• Cross the Northeast branch of the Shaurtu glacier (hidden crevasses)
• Move along the left side of the Shaurtu glacier, following the right (southern) slopes of the Western ridge of Shaurtu peak
• Approach the saddle of the Salynan pass between Shaurtu and Salynan peaks

The initial bivouac is on the glacier plateau under the pass. From the "Chegem" tourist base, it takes 7-8 hours.

From the glacier, ascend the snow slope (possible rockfall, avalanches) to approach the saddle of the pass, left of a wide ice-snow couloir with overhanging ice seracs in its upper part. After crossing the bergschrund via a snow bridge:

• Initially, ascend 120-150 m upwards to the left
• Then, beyond a rocky outcrop, ascend 200-250 m upwards to the right (protection required) via a steep ice-snow couloir, cut by two transverse snow ridges, to the saddle of the Salynan pass.

On the pass, turn right and traverse to the ridge connecting the Northeast ridge of Salynan peak via simple, ruined rocks of a gendarme. From the Shaurtu glacier plateau, it takes 2-4 hours.

From the ridge, ascend 90-100 m up the snow-covered Northeast ridge, then via moderately difficult rocks under the first gendarme. Pass the gendarme up to its middle, then traverse it via its left wall (using natural protection) and ascend to the ridge beyond it (using natural protection). Ascend 150-160 m up the monolithic, steep rocks of the Northeast ridge under the second gendarme, which can be passed directly or bypassed via ledges on the left (using natural protection).

Further, traverse 60-80 m along the sharp, rocky Northeast ridge with a 4-meter overhanging psychological wall, which can be passed directly or bypassed on the left (using natural protection). Continue moving along the following sections:

• a narrow, 100-120-meter ruined, saw-tooth rocky ridge
• a 60-80-meter snow-covered Northeast ridge

Reach the summit of Salynan. From the Salynan pass, it takes 9-10 hours.