155. Salynan via the East Ridge
(route is combined, category IIIB, fig. 14, 16). The path from the Bezengi alp camp (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Salynan Glacier is described in route 152.
Approach the right side of the wide steep ice-and-snow slope via the plateau, descending from the East Ridge saddle to the left of a wide steep ice-and-snow gully with avalanche deposits.
From the glacier:
- overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge,
- ascend the steep ice-and-snow slope to the right side of the lower rock cape,
- reach the rocks of its right lower part.
From here:
- 6080 m up and left across rocks of medium difficulty,
- then straight up via
ledges and simple rocks with 10-15 m walls of medium difficulty (pitons belay), alternating with snow sections, to the East Ridge to the left of the Triangular Jendarme. From the upper Salynan Glacier plateau - 5-6 hours.
On the ridge, turn right and traverse the Triangular Jendarme on the right via ledges of medium difficulty. Further, via simple and some medium difficulty rocks of the East Ridge, approach the Sharp II Jendarme, which is traversed on the right ("live" rocks, pitons belay), with an exit to a snow saddle. Beyond the saddle, move via simple rocks of the East Ridge under the Big Jendarme - the key point of the route.
From the ridge, 15-20 m straight up on the right side of the ice-and-snow gully to its end, from where ascend the wall left to a platform (pitons belay).
From the left side of the platform, ascend the slabs to the Big Jendarme (pitons belay).
From the Jendarme, descend 5-7 m to the ridge via a crack.
Further, via simple and medium difficulty rocks of the East Ridge with ice-and-snow saddles, 250-300 m up to a slab.
Traverse the slab on the right (pitons belay) and via simple rocks, then via the sharp snow East Ridge, ascend 60-80 m to the summit of Salynan.
From the point of reaching the East Ridge - 4-5 hours.