Sella peak — Warszawa peak, traverse.
From the “Jangi-kosh” hut through the “serac” moraine to the Bezengi glacier, along the left (in the direction of travel) side of the glacier (attention — closed crevices and rockfall hazard from the S. slopes of Warszawa peak), bypassing the bases of the three S. spurs of the main ridge, into the SW cirque of Bashha-aus-bashi.
From the hut 2 hours 30 minutes.
Through the bergschrund and along the snowy slope to the saddle on the NE ridge of Sella peak, leading to Bashha-aus. From the saddle, left along the snowy ridge with cornices on the left. On the pre-summit section:
- cross the ridge
- ascend through the “pocket” between the snowy ridge and rock outcrops to the summit
From the glacier 1.5–2 hours
Descent from the summit to the SW: along the steep snowy-ice slope of the summit tower with protection via ice screws, then simultaneously:
- along the narrow snowy ridge with rock outcrops
- along the wide snowy ridge
From here, it is possible to deviate from the route in case of unfavorable weather conditions along the S. spur of the ridge to the Bezengi glacier. From the lowest point — ascent along the rocky NE ridge of Warszawa peak simultaneously with protection via rock features without significant gain in height. In the middle of the rocky section, the key point is a 10 m ascent with screw protection from a cavity, then again simultaneously along the ridge to the summit of Warszawa peak. From Sella peak — 2.5–3 hours.
Descent from Warszawa peak to the SW: 30 m along the rocks of the summit tower to a sharp ridge, along an inclined ledge on the right, bypassing a steep lowering of the ridge with screw protection and further along the ridge or to the left of it simultaneously to a saddle with a control cairn.
From the saddle:
- left along a narrow snowy couloir (attention — rocks, if icy, then along the talus behind the rocky ridge on the right of the couloir);
- then left into a wide snowy couloir and along it to the Bezengi glacier on the trail, further — to the hut.
From the summit: 1.5–2 hours.
Hazardous areas:
- on the Bezengi glacier — closed crevices and rockfall hazard from the S-slopes of Warszawa peak;
- on the NE-ridge of Sella peak — possible cornices on the left, on the right — a snowy slope with increasing steepness, in the couloirs — rockfall hazard.
Special equipment:
- Rock screws 5–6 pcs.
- Ice screws 2–3 pcs.
- Crampons — for all.