ASCENT PASS

1. Class — snow and ice climb.
2. Main Caucasus Range, Bezengi gorge.
3. Shkhara Main via the North face.
4. Complexity category — 5B.
5. Height difference — 1900 m, length — 2400 m, length of sections with 5–6 category complexity — 1590 m, of which 6 category complexity — 200 m.
6. Average steepness of the route — 54°, average steepness of main sections — 63°.
7. Pitons used on the route:
   • ice screws: 217
   • rock pitons: 19

Climbing Passport

1. Caucasus, Bezengi region, Ukyu gorge. Section 2.5 according to the 2013 classification table.
2. To the peak named after Yu.S. Saratov, 3711 m high, via the N ridge 43.05.337 N 43.10.797 E.
3. Proposed category 1B difficulty, first ascent.
4. The route is rock.
5. Height difference is 500 m.
6. There is 1 rappel anchor on the route.
7. Climbing time — 5 hours.
8. Leader — S.A. Slotyuk, Candidate Master of Sports, in a team of two with S.V. Kotachkov, Candidate Master of Sports.
9. Coach — S.A. Slotyuk.

Fig. 13 51. Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy via the North Ridge (combined route, category 2A). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygan-su River (group of 4–12 people), ascend to the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier and cross it to the right. From the Nakhashbita Glacier, head towards the Sugan Glacier. Before reaching it, turn left and follow the steep moraine along the Kamenisty Stream to reach a small cirque with the Kamenisty Glacier, formed by the ridges of Peak Zorya and the North Shoulder of Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy. From the Kamenisty Glacier, ascend a simple, gentle 450–500-meter snow slope of the couloir to the Kamenisty Pass. From the base camp, it takes 3–3.5 hours. At the pass, turn left and ascend via the right side of a simple, heavily broken 300-meter ridge, then via a simple 60-meter rock ascent (with protection) to reach the North Shoulder of Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy. From the Kamenisty Pass, it takes 1 hour. On the shoulder, turn right and ascend via a simple, gentle snow-covered rock 200-meter North Ridge, then via a snow ascent to the Kupol pinnacle. From the Kupol pinnacle, descend via simple rocks on the right side of the North Ridge into a snow-filled cirque. From here, ascend a snow slope (with protection) with an ice-snow ascent (with piton protection) on the North Ridge for 120 meters below the second pinnacle. Overcome the pinnacle via a gentle, broken 60-meter ridge with an ascent to its summit on the right via a narrow chimney (with protection). From the pinnacle, make a simple descent onto a sharp snow ridge. Further, follow the sharp, then broad and long North Ridge with outcrops of rocks, ending with an ice-snow ascent, then ascend via simple rocks on the right side of the ridge for 200 meters to Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy. From the base camp, it takes 8–10 hours.

Fig. 7 24. Doppakh Western peak via the Southern ridge (a combined route by L. Artsyshevskaya, category 4A, Fig. 7). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (a group of 4–6 people) to the summit of Yuzhny Doppakh is described in route 22. From the summit, descend along the simple snow-covered Northern ridge in the direction of Zapadny Doppakh to two rocky gendarmes. Bypass the gendarmes (belay on a rope):

• to the right — along a steep snow-ice slope,
• to the left — along the rocky ledges of the wall (“loose” rocks)

Fig. 12 42. Sugantau via the South Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4-20 people) to the Gulchi pass with a bivouac on the pass or on the rocky platforms of the Eastern counterfort of the South Ridge of Sugantau peak, under the right side of the Gulchi pass, is described in route 46. At the pass, turn right and ascend along the edge of snow and rocks along the left side of the South Ridge of Sugantau peak, then up a steep 80-90-meter ice-and-snow slope (pitched protection). Beyond the ascent:

• along the sharp snowy South Ridge,
• then along a small rocky outcrop, exit left onto the upper snow plateau of the southwestern slope of the peak. The upper plateau can also be reached from the left of the South Ridge, via an ice-and-snow slope with a 60-80-meter ice-and-snow ascent (pitched protection). On the right side of the gentle snowy slope of the plateau (closed crevasses), staying close to the South Ridge, approach the summit ascent.

Fig. 12 45. Sugantau via the North Ridge (combined route by N. Misyura, Category 3B difficulty, Fig. 12). The path from the base camp (a group of 4–8 people) on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier, to the initial bivouac on the snow plateau under the left side of the North Ridge of Sugantau is described in route 48. From the base camp — 3.5–4 hours. The approach path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing to the Sugan-2 pass is described in routes 46 and 44. From the Sugan-2 pass:

• descend a steep ice-and-snow slope, with a bergschrund in the lower part, to the upper plateau of the Eastern branch of the Sugan Glacier
• approach the initial bivouac under the left (eastern) side of the North Ridge of Sugantau across the plateau. From the plateau (departure at 3–4 am), bypassing the rocky outcrop at the base of the North Ridge of Sugantau from the left (east), turn right and ascend a gentle 150–160-meter ice-and-snow slope (with protection) to a saddle on the North Ridge. A possible bivouac site is available here. On the saddle, turn left and ascend:
• a gentle, straightforward, occasionally moderately difficult slope

Dubl peak

In the southeastern corner of the Karaugom plateau and the southwestern corner of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier, at the beginning of the Tsey ridge, above the Tsey-Karaugom pass rise:

• South summit of Dubl peak (4516 m)
• North summit of Dubl peak (4516 m) between which a short ice-snow saddle passes. North of Dubl peak in the Tsey ridge stands a low peak Krasnoflotets. From both summits of Dubl peak to the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier and the Karaugom plateau descend steep rocky edges - walls, separated by wide ice-snow slopes. Dubl peak is well освоен by mountaineers.

117. Dubl peak South (4512 m) via Southwest counterforce, 2B cat. dif. (I. Antonovich, A. Zolotarev, August 4, 1933). Fig. 28. The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group 4-12 people) to the saddle of the Tsey-Karaugom pass with the initial bivouac in the upper reaches of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier is described in route 83. On the pass, turn right and approach the ascent of the South summit of Dubl peak. Further, traverse left along the simple southern slope of the South summit, pass:

• the first South counterforce,
• followed by a snow couloir,

From the "Осетии" pass, descend down to the glacier under the slopes of V. Kamenny. The route begins on the right part of the glacier under the slopes of V. Kamenny. Section R0–R1. The beginning of the route is to the right of the stream flowing from the couloir. It is climbed with alternating belay. The terrain is a fusion of ledges with short walls (4–6 m). The upper part of the section enters the beginning of the couloir: there are rocks in the couloir. The rocks are of medium and below medium difficulty (piton belay). Section R1–R2. From the beginning of the couloir, move along its right side, along the beginning of the rock outcrop (rock outcrop against the background of the snowy couloir). There is a wall with a shoulder at the top. The rocks in the section are below medium difficulty. Section R2–R3. Climb with alternating belay (be cautious on the left side — rocks); in the upper part, the route exits onto a ledge; from here, glacial ice is possible at the beginning of the season. Section R3–R4. From the ledge, turn right, along rocks of below medium difficulty (pitons), pass 80–100 m and exit onto a shoulder (on the shoulder) to the beginning of the main inclined ledge — a control cairn. Section R4–R5. From the control cairn, move along simple rocks and an inclined ledge, which leads to a shoulder (good platforms on the shoulder). Section R5–R6. From the shoulder, turn left and climb the wall with horizontal ledges to a platform under the beginning of a vaguely expressed inner corner. The rocks of the section are of medium and above medium difficulty. Climb with alternating belay (pitons). Section R6–R7. From the ledge, along the left side of the inner corner, under the ridge. Climb the section with alternating belay (pitons).

From the Osetin pass, [descend] along the middle part of the glacier, then along the scree and reach the second rocky outcrop (counting from the Kalper pass). From the rocky outcrop, go left-up along the scree and "sheep's foreheads" to the platforms. From the Osetin pass I — 1 h 30 min. From the platforms, ascend left to a green ledge. Traverse the ledge right-up towards the "gates." Then, ascend a snowy (snow-ice) slope to enter the "gates" (with protection) and then rise to a scree saddle. Cairn! From the platforms 1 h. From the saddle, ascend first left-up (30 m), and then along an inclined ledge right-up (loose rocks!) to the black vertical veins on the 80-meter wall. Overcome the wall to the right of the black veins. (Difficult climbing, piton protection, possible rockfall from above!) After overcoming the wall, traverse right (40 m) along a snowy couloir (protection! Possible rockfall!) and exit onto a simple ridge. Ascend the ridge with simultaneous, sometimes alternating, protection left-up to a triangular rock. Traverse the rock left-up (piton protection!) and then right-up to reach the upper edge. Continue strictly along the edge towards the summit. From the control point

2. Traverse of Sulakhat summit from north to south — 2A cat. diff. (see Fig. 7)

From the northern summit, left and down into the pass. Then along the ridge (insurance through ledges!) to the control cairn. From the cairn, descend to the right along the crevice to a shelf and along it (piton insurance!) to the next ridge saddle. Then along the ridge to a 30-meter wall. Descend along it to the ridge. From the ridge, descend to the right to a shelf and then along the ridge to the base of the South summit. Ascent to the South summit along the ridge. Descent from the South summit to the right along a gully (insurance!) to a shelf and along it to exit to a narrow snow patch in a couloir. Then along the couloir (insurance!) to a large snowfield and down it. Then exit left along grassy slopes and scree to a trail and along it to the bivouac. The route from bivouac to traverse and back to bivouac takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in a group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — lower Sulakhatskaya nochevka.
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2–3 m; c) rock pitons — 4; d) ice pitons — 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac locations on the North, Central summits and under the South summit.