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Description of the 6A category difficulty route to Pik Kirpich via the "diamond" on the western wall in the Western Caucasus.

PASSPORT

I. Category — rock. 2. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol Valley. 3. Pik Kirpich — via the "diamond" on the western wall. 4. 6A category difficulty (route by Yu. Manoylov, 1968) 5. Route length: 1070 m Height difference on the route: 840 m Average steepness of the wall section: 77° Height difference of the wall section: 440 m Length of the wall section: 490 m

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Description of the 6A category complexity route via the "diamond" on the West face of Kirpich peak in the Western Caucasus, with details on the passage and photographs.

Ascent Passport

  1. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol area, Myrdy gorge, section number according to the classification table 2.3
  2. Kirpich peak, via the "diamond" on the Western wall (Yu. Manoylov's route)
  3. 6A category of complexity
  4. Route type: rock
  5. Route height difference: 800 m Route length: 1010 m Length of sections: 5th category of complexity — 155 m, 6th category of complexity — 125 m Average steepness: main part of the route — 80° entire route — 62°
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Ascent to the summit of Nakhar Bolshoy (3780 m) via the center of the northwestern wall, 6th category of difficulty, Caucasus.

  1. Climbing category — rock climbing
  2. Climbing area — Caucasus, 2.3. From Nakhar Pass to Chipperazau Pass
  3. Peak, its height, and climbing route — Nakhara Bolshoy, 3780 m via the center of the northwest wall
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 6th cat. diff.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1130 m, including 1010 m of wall section; average steepness 73°, including 83° for the wall section. Section lengths: I cat. diff. — absent, II cat. diff. — 320 m, III cat. diff. — absent, IV cat. diff. — 15 m, V cat. diff. — 460 m, VI cat. diff. — 605 m.
  6. Pitons hammered: for belay and for creating I.T.O. | | Rock Pitons | Bolts | | :--------- | :------- | :--------- | | for belay | 271 | 4 |
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Report on the ascent of the CS DSO "*Spartak*" national team to the summit of **Bolshoy Nakhara** via the right part of the northwestern wall in 1978.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area — Uzunkol alpine camp.
  3. Ascent route with indication of peaks, their heights, route complexity (and other approximate data) — Bolshoy Nakhar peak (3780 m), complexity approximately 6th category of difficulty — via the right part of the northwest wall.
  4. Ascent characteristics:
    • Route length — 1310 m.
    • Height difference — 1000 m.
    • Average steepness — 78°.
    • Length of complex sections — 805 m.
  5. Pitons hammered: rock — 195, ice — 20 into rocks, wooden wedges — 23, placement elements — 6.
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Description of the ascent to the summit of Bolshoy Nakhara via the northwest wall, a category 6 complexity route, including the technical characteristics of the route and the specifics of the ascent.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — rock climbing
  2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus, Nakhara region
  3. Ascent route — Bolshoi Nakhara peak 3780 m via Northwest wall, 6B category
  4. Route characteristics Height difference — 1000 m. Average steepness — 80°. Route length — 1565 m. Length of complex sections — 785 m.
  5. Pitons hammered in Rock pitons — 309. Bolt pitons — none. Chocks used — 26.
  6. Total climbing hours — 48 h 30 min.
  7. Total climbing days — 5 (including one rest day)
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Description of the route to the summit of Pelychap from the west, complexity category I.6B.

ASCENT ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF PELYCHACHAP from the west — I.6Б.

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Detailed description of a Category 5B route via the Southwest Face of Pik Shokoladny (3650 m) in the Western Caucasus, including an in-depth analysis of section passage and recommendations.

Ascent Log

  1. Category: Technical.
  2. Region: Western Caucasus, Uzunkol, Myrdy gorge.
  3. Object: Shokoladny peak (3650), via the center of the SW wall.
  4. Complexity category: 5B.
  5. Route characteristics:
    • Height difference: 620 m;
    • Section lengths:
      • 6th category — 115 m;
      • 5th category — 344 m;
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A description of a combined route, category 5B, through Bolshaya Tseiskaya horseshoe (Adai — Ularge) in the Central Caucasus.

  1. The Big Tsey horseshoe (Adai — Ulargee — Zaromag) (a combined route by K. Korolev, 5B cat. of difficulty). The path from the CSP of the Tsey district (a group of 4–8 people) to the Adai summit is described in route 166. From the Adai summit, descend down the ice-and-snow SW ridge to the first group of rocks, which are bypassed on the right. Then, 40 m down the steep ice-and-snow slope on the right side of the ridge. Then traverse down to the right along the steep ice-and-snow slope to the snow SW ridge. Along the snow ridge with rocky sections of medium difficulty in the lower part, approach the steep rocky ridge. Along the steep, heavily destroyed, simple and medium difficulty rocky ridge descend to a long, gentle ice-and-snow SW ridge, along which approach the rocky "saw". From under the "saw", descend from the ridge 40–50 m to the left and along the ledges, simple and medium difficulty rocks on the left side of the ridge, bypass the "saw" by traversing. Behind it, ascend to the platform of the snow col between the SW ridge of Adai summit and the gendarme "ZIL" of the E ridge of Zaromag summit. From Adai summit — 6–8 hours. From the col, along the wide (80–100 m), steep ridge, approach under the wall of the "ZIL" gendarme. Along the rocks of above medium difficulty on the right side of the wall — ascent to the ridge and along it — exit to the "ZIL" gendarme. The further path to Zaromag summit along the E ridge is described in route 178. From Zaromag, descend along the simple, short, gentle rocky, then snow 200-meter W ridge. Further:
  • Descend to the left along the narrow, steep ice-and-snow 300–400-meter couloir, bypassing the rocky drop of the ridge.
  • From the couloir, traverse to the right along the snow-covered rocky slopes to exit to the ridge connector.
  • From the connector, along the boundary of ice and rocks, bypass two small gendarmes on the left and behind them exit to the col of the snow ridge.
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Traverse Zapadny - Tsentralny - Vostochny Bokos, a combined route of 3A category of difficulty, duration 10-12 hours.

  1. Bocos Western — Eastern (combined route by V. Miklashevsky, category III of complexity). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Western Bocos is described in routes 131, 132. From the Western summit, there is a small descent along the snowy Eastern ridge in the direction of the Central summit. Then, along the occasionally snow-covered simple rocks of the wide, long, and destroyed ridge with numerous, straightforward, несложными gendarmes, approach under the sharp Central gendarme. From under it:
  • descend 30–40 m along steep rocks (loose stones — piton protection) to the right;
  • then, along ledges, bypass the gendarme to exit into a narrow, steep couloir. Along rocks of medium difficulty (many loose stones — piton protection, key point of the route) of the narrow couloir, ascend 30–40 m to the ridge behind the Central gendarme. Along the simple, long, destroyed, and snow-covered rocky ridge, overcoming numerous gendarmes straightforward, reach the summit of Central Bocos. From the Central summit, along the simple ridge, descend to a wide snowy saddle. From the saddle, along the simple snowy, then along the wide, gently sloping Western ridge:
  • ascend to the summit of Eastern Bocos. Descent along the Eastern ridge or the Southern slope (see route 129 or 130).
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Ascent to the summit of Jadlyk (4533 m) via Shto-West counterfort of the Western ridge, first ascent, category 4 difficulty, in 28 hours of climbing.

I. Technical difficulty category 2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge 3. Peak Dzhadlyk via the West counterfort of the Western ridge 4533. 4. Proposed — 4th category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1025 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 7° (3870–4350), including 6th category of difficulty — 85° (3870–3900) 90° (3930–3940), 90° (4140–4155), 85° (4170 — traverse 20 m) 6. Pitons hammered in: rock (65+5ˣ)/12 6/4

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