Activity Feed
Route Description: СЗ кф. В гребня, траверс
Report on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via the spur from Walter Glacier in 1978, rated 5B difficulty.
- Climbing category — high-altitude.
- Climbing area — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range.
- Peak, 30th by height, climbing route — Peak Communism, 7495 m above sea level, via the counterfort from Walter Glacier, route by N. Chyorny.
- Estimated difficulty category — 5B category of difficulty.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 3495 m, length of category difficulty sections: 5 — 2500 m, category difficulty 6 — 300 m, average steepness — 40°.
- Pitons hammered for safety: rock — 10, ice — 30, bolt — C.
- Number of travel hours — 41.
- Number of nights and their characteristics — 4 nights on snow in a tent.
- Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualifications:
- Studenin B. A., Master of Sports of International Class, team leader.
Route Description: СЗ кф. 3 гребня
Climbing report on Peak XIX Partsezd (5920 m) via the north-west spur of the west ridge, category 5A難度.
Peak XIX Partezda (5920 m), approximately category 5A, northwestern spur of the western ridge
For the Leningrad city championship in the ice and snow class
Team coach Master of Sports Stepanov I.V.
Leningrad 1982
- Traverse by the Leningrad State University team:
Peak XIX Partezda, Peak Spartak, Peak Lenin, Peak Razdel'naya
Route diagram according to ΦΙΛΑ
Route Description: З кф.
Report on the ascent of the unnamed peaks 6205 m and 6042 m in the Eastern Pamir, made by the Krasnoyarsk expedition in 1978.
Passport
- Climbs — high-altitude
- Climbing area — Eastern Pamir, Trans-Alay Range from the south
- Climbing routes — via the western slopes of the unnamed peaks 6205 and 6042
- Climbing characteristics: HEIGHT | 6205 | — 1095 m | | :------------ | :------: | | 6042 | — 932 m | | average steepness — 45° | |
Route Description: с севера в лоб
Report on the ascent of the Azerbaijan Alpine Federation team to Lenin Peak (7134 m) via the 5A category route as part of the World Climbing Championship.
Alpinism Federation of Azerbaijan
Report
On the ascent to
PEAK IBN SINA (LENIN) 7134 m WORLD ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP. HIGH-ALTITUDE CLASS. July 3 — July 23, 2012
Baku, 2012
1. Ascent Passport
- Region: Kyrgyzstan, Pamir, Trans-Alay range
- Peak name: Lenin Peak
Route Description: с пер. Крыленко
Report on the ascent of Peak Lenin (7134 m) from the south, a 5a category climb, made by a team of Lithuanian climbers in 1965.
CS "DSO "Zalgiris""
ASCENT TO LENIN PEAK (7134 m) FROM THE SOUTH 5A cat. sl. IN HONOR OF THE 25th ANNIVERSARY OF SOVIET LITHUANIA (report for the 1965 USSR Climbing Championship) Vilnius, 1965
II. BRIEF GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION AND SPORTING CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LENIN PEAK REGION
Lenin Peak, with an elevation of 7134.3 m above sea level, is located in the middle part of the Trans-Alai Range and is its highest peak. The peak is connected to Peak Dzerzhinsky (6713 m) to the west and, via the Krylenko Pass (5820 m), to the ridge of Peak Edinstva (6673 m) to the east. To the south, in a spur of the Lenin Peak massif, lies the Moscow-Peking Peak (6852 m). The Lenin Glacier flows from the northern massifs of Lenin Peak. The southern slopes of the peak are drained by the glaciers:
- Big Sauk-Dara (to the east)
- Small Sauk-Dara (to the west) The elevation difference between Lenin Peak and the middle part of the Sauk-Dara Glacier is about 3000 m. The slopes of the peak are covered with glaciers and thick layers of firn snow. In some places, the slope steepness reaches 55°. The slopes are cut by crevices up to 100 m or more in depth. Snow avalanches and ice collapses are frequent. Atmospheric pressure at the summit (7134 m) is 290 mm. Lenin Peak is the third highest seven-thousander in the USSR and is quite popular among climbers due to its relatively easy access to the starting points of the ascent. Most ascents are made from the northern side, from the Lenin Glacier.
Route Description: кф. скалы Липкина
Ascent of Lenin Peak (7134 m) from the north via the spur through Lipkin Mt in 1967 by a Soviet expedition.
LENIN PEAK (7134 m) FROM THE NORTH VIA THE SPUR FROM LIPKINA PEAK.
Moscow – 1967
II. Preparation and Organization of the Ascent
In the autumn of 1966, the Moscow City Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Association decided to conduct a complex high-altitude expedition to the Pamir using collective travel vouchers. A coaching council was formed, consisting of Honored Master of Sports Ovchinnikov A.G., Master of Sports Bozhukov, and Honored Coach of the RSFSR Radel V.A. The head of the organizational committee was Master of Sports Galkin V.T., under whose leadership the preparations for the expedition were carried out. Training sessions were conducted according to a plan developed by the coaching council, three times a week, at the sports complexes:
- Bauman Moscow State Technical University (MSTU)
- Moscow State University (MSU)
- Tsaritsyno
- Khimki.
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Ascent to the summit via the northwest ridge, category 1B difficulty, with a description of the route and a panoramic view from the top of the surrounding peaks of the Pamir region.
Route Description
Ascent to the summit "5149"
Via the north-west ridge. Cat. diff. 1B. Depart from the base camp no later than 7:00 am. The base camp is located at an altitude of 4200 m near the tongue of the Oktyabrsky glacier at Serebrennny stream on the right orographic side of the valley. On the way to the foot of the summit, the Kок-Сай river is forded. The duration of the journey to the foot is about 1 hour. The path to the summit begins along the slope of 25°–30° of the NW ridge in the direction of the shoulder before the first steep rise of the ridge. The slope is covered with medium scree. Once on the ridge, rope up! The height of the shoulder is about 4700 m. The duration of the path from the foot is approximately 1 hour 30 minutes. Then move along the ridge towards the summit. The first section of the ridge rises at an angle of 45° for 50–60 m and is a not very wide (3–4 m) snow patch with individual protruding rocks. Insurance is simultaneous. Next begins the 1st rocky section of the ridge, rising with 3 walls 4–7 meters high and alternating between them with more gentle sections covered with snow. The average steepness of the section is 25°–30°. Insurance when overcoming rocky ascents is alternating, via rock outcrops. Further, the ridge widens, slightly drops, and then rises again at an angle of 10°–15° and is covered with snow. There follows a snowy ascent of the ridge with a steepness of 45°–50°, then a pre-summit section with a steepness of 25°, also snowy with individual protruding rocks. The width of the ridge allows simultaneous movement in rope teams. The last 100–120 meters to the summit are almost flat, with a slight ascent, and feature broken rocks. The summit consists of broken rocks. The time taken from the point of exit onto the ridge (shoulder before the first ascent of the ridge) to the summit is 2–2.5 hours.
Route Description: В ребру п.Комплексный
Report on the first ascent via the East Ridge of Peak Lenin (7134 m) by a team from Voronezh on August 4-6, 2023, with a difficulty category of 5A.
Russian Mountaineering Championship, "High-Altitude" Class
Report
On the first ascent to the summit of LENINA (ABU ALI IBN SINA) via the Eastern ridge of Peak Kompleksny, 5A category of difficulty (tentatively), by the team from Voronezh, from August 4 to August 6, 2023.
Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Team Leader's Full Name, Sports Rank | Penyaev Ilya Nikolaevich, Master of Sports |
Route Description: кф. Ю стены
A description of the ascent route to the summit, including data on the difficulty and elevation at various sections of the path.
| 10 | 5100 |
|---|---|
| 8 | 5000 |
| 6 | 4400 |
| 5 | 4300 |
| 4 | 4500 |
| 3 | 4400 |
Route Description: Ю стене
Report on the ascent made by the team from the Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee via a category 6 difficulty route to Peak Ahmad Donish via the North face in 1987.
1987 RSFSR Alpine Championship
High-altitude Climbing Category
Ir. 576 p. 9 dated 6.10.87 2nd ascent of V. Smirnov route, 6th category of difficulty PEAK AKHMAI DONISH 6666 m The photo contains a report from Smirnov's institute, but it was not provided to the team. Recorded with counter-V. Approved for the ascent of Peak Akhmad Donish via the South Face (№ 4.1.5 according to KTMGV) by the team from the Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee. Second ascent. Team Leader