Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical
2. Ascent region — 103. Pamir, spurs of the Shakhdarin range, Zuvand valley
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak AGCH, 6222 m, center of the east wall
4. Expected difficulty category — 6
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1900 m, length — 2120 m length of sections: 5th cat. diff. — 1075 m, 6th cat. diff. — 600 m, average steepness — 70°
6. Pitons hammered: rock for belay — 215, rock for belay devices — 26, chocks — 43, ice screws — 23

Ascent Passport for Litva Peak (6080 m)

1. Climbing category: High-altitude technical climb
2. Climbing area: South-West Pamir, Shakhdařinskij Ridge, Litva Peak (6080 m).
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their elevations: Litva Peak (6080 m); first ascent via the western wall, category 5B difficulty, 5th bastion.
4. Climbing characteristics:
   • Elevation gain: from camps under the wall at 5200 m to the summit at 6080 m, with an elevation gain of 880 m;
   • Average steepness: wall section of the route is 65–70°;
   • Length of the complex section of the route: wall section is 500 m.
5. Number of pitons driven:
   • Rock pitons: 71

MOS DSO «ZENIT»

Route Description

TO THE SUMMIT «LITVA» (6080 m) VIA THE SOUTHWEST FACE (first ascent) Southwestern Pamir 1972

Group Composition

Chapter II. Ascent Execution

I. Route Description

Day I — August 5, 1972. Departed from the base camp located in the Kishti-Dzherob valley at an altitude of about 4200 m above sea level at 16:00.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class: High-altitude technical climb.
2. Ascent area: South-West Pamir.
3. Ascent route: Ascent to Litva peak via the fourth bastion of the south-west wall H 6080 m.
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Wall section height difference — 420 m, length — 530 m, length of sections with 5th and 6th difficulty categories — 390 m.
6. Number of pitons driven

   Rock	Ice	Bolt	Chocks
   47	7	0	66

USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1981

High-altitude technical class

Shakhdarin Range — Peak Luknitskogo (5800 m) via the center of the western wall (first ascent)

Team of the Sports Committee of the Tajik SSR

Leader: V.I. Lavrukhin. Coach: V.I. Galaktionov. Dushanbe — 1981 BRIEF GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION AND SPORTS CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT OBJECT Peak Luknitskogo (5800 m) is located in the middle part of the Shakhdarin Range, in the main ridge, between the peaks 5962 m (Peak Soviet Youth) to the east and 6038 m (Peak Baikonur) to the west. From the summit, the following relief forms extend in different directions:

• To the northwest, a ridge descends steeply, dividing the northern valleys of the Seyj (with Luknitskogo Glacier) and Jarf (with Jarf Glacier) rivers.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: High-altitude technical 2. Ascent Area: Southwestern Pamir, Shakhdarin Range 3. Peak, its height: Peak Luknitskogo, 5800 m. Ascent Route: center — West Wall 4. Proposed difficulty category — 6 5. Route Characteristics: elevation gain — 1460 m, average steepness — 70°, route type — combined, section lengths: 6th cat. diff. — 525 m, 5th cat. diff. — 400 m 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, including for standing on (ИТО) rock — 280, ice — 21 (into ice), bolt — 6, chocks — 117 7. Total hours of climbing — 77.5 (including acclimatization day)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — South-West Pamir
3. Peak; its height, ascent route — Peak Luknitskogo 5800 m, North face
4. Proposed complexity category — 6B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1630 m, avg. slope 70°, section lengths:
   • 3rd diff. cat. — 190 m
   • 4th diff. cat. — 330 m
   • 5th diff. cat. — 620 m
   • 6th diff. cat. — 400 m

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category: high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent area: Pamir, Shakhdarin Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak Luknitskogo, 5800 m via the North face.
4. Estimated category: 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections with 5th cat. difficulty — 770 m, 6th cat. difficulty — 310 m, average steepness 68°.
6. Pitons used: for belaying — 275 rock, 8 ice; for creating artificial anchors — 16 rock.
7. Total climbing hours: 37.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 3 bivouacs: #1 — on the wall, semi-reclining, uncomfortable; #2 — on the wall, reclining; #3 — on the summit, reclining.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, their qualification:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge — South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin.
3. Peak, its height, route — Pik Luknitskogo, 5800 m, ascent via the North face.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1600 m, average steepness — 70°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1040 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying for creating ITO rock 140 pcs., ice 3 pcs., bolted — —

5 Imakouk

4533 m Hovebka №2 4350 m R19

• R17
• R18 R16
• R14­–R15
• R12­–R8