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COMBAT TRAINING DEPARTMENT OF TURKESTAN MILITARY DISTRICT COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS UNDER THE COUNCIL OF MINISTERS OF UZSSR REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF THE HIGHEST POINT IN THE USSR – STALIN PEAK (height 7495 m) VIA THE EAST RIDGE Tashkent 1958 ROUTE SCHEMATIC OF THE ASCENT TO STALIN PEAK (Height 7495 m)

I. Geographical Location and Sporting Characteristics of Stalin Peak

Altai Regional Alpine Federation

For the Championship of the Soviet Union in the class of high-altitude ascents.

Report

on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma (7495 meters) via the counterfort from the Belyaev Glacier (sixth category of difficulty) Barnaul, 1969

I. Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

In the center of the North-Western Pamir, at the junction of two ridges – Peter the First and Academy of Sciences, on the territory of the Tajik SSR is located the highest peak of the Soviet Union – Peak Kommunizma. The area of Peak Kommunizma, which has a height of 7495 meters above sea level, is the most elevated part of the Pamir. The snow line in this area is at an altitude of 4000–4300 m. The sharply continental climate creates favorable conditions for the formation of ice, which covers the slopes of the ridges, peaks, and, sliding down from them, accumulates in the valleys. For example, glaciers:

• Fedchenko
• Garmo
• Gando

Ascent Passport.

1. Ascent category — high-altitude.
2. Ascent area, range — Central Pamir, Akademii Nauk range.
3. Peak, its height, route — p. Kommunizma 7495 m, via the counterfort of the SW slope of the Belyaev Glacier.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2825 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1425 m, average steepness up to 6950 m — 55°.
6. Pitons hammered: on bivouacs — 4 rock; for belay: rock — 33, ice — 14.
7. Number of climbing hours — 32.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: three nights at heights 6100, 6700, 6950 m.
9. Full name of the leader and participants:

ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Ascent class - high-altitude 2. Ascent area, ridge - Central Pamir, Academy of Sciences Ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Peak Kommunizma, 7495 m, via the counterfort of the SW slope from Belyaev Glacier 4. Difficulty category - 6 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 2800 m length of sections with 5-6 cat. difficulty - 1975 m average steepness (up to 6950 m) - 54° 6. Pitons used: for belaying, for creating intermediate anchors.

1917–1967

In honor of the 50th anniversary of the Great October Socialist Revolution

Report

on the ascent of Peak Communism (7495 m) from the Bivachny glacier by the sports team of the Dnepropetrovsk Regional Sports Union. Materials for the USSR Climbing Championship 1967. Dnepropetrovsk 1967 Thus, the final composition of the assault group after adjustments was as follows:

1. Sinkovsky A.B. — MS — captain
2. Zaydler A.M. — MS — participant
3. Pechenin V.M. — MS — participant
4. Verbitsky G.G. — CMS — participant

Ascent Passport

I. High-altitude category 2. Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range 3. Peak Kommunizma via the southern ridge from Bivachny Glacier 4. Cat. diff. 5B 5. Elevation gain from camp I to the summit 3300 m length 12 km, average steepness 25–27° 6. Pitons left 2 7. Climbing hours 52, days 10 8. Campsites: 1 on a moraine

Ascent Passport

1. Class of high-altitude ascents.
2. North-Western Pamir. Northern spur of the Academy of Sciences Range.
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya. Height 7105 m. Via the South-Eastern slope. The route is combined.
4. Route category 5B.
5. Height difference 2925 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock 16, ice 50. Used 12 pieces of protection gear.
7. Travel time: 18 hours 30 minutes.
8. One bivouac was made on the route. The bivouac site was carved out in a snowy-ice ridge. The bivouac was comfortable and met safety requirements.
9. Selivanov M.A. CMS — leader

Climbing Route Description

in the Central Pamir region on peak Krasnoarmeitsev (conditional name), peak 4710 m, via the Southwest Counterfort, via route 3A category of difficulty (approximately) by the group of LGS DSO "Spartak" gathering: team leader Razumov Yu.M. — 1st sports category, Vostrova I.A. — 1st sports category, Baybara V.S. — 2nd sports category, Sayfutdinov R.L. — 2nd sports category (Osh city, "Spartak"). 1974

Ascent to the "Malysh" peak via the south-eastern ridge

The "Malysh" peak is the closest peak to the south of the Abdugagor-P pass in the "Academy of Sciences" ridge. The northern slopes of the peak descend directly to the Abdugagor-P pass. The "Malysh" peak encloses from the east the cirque formed by the peaks:

• peak 5660 m
• 5800 m
• "Malysh" peak The ascent was made from the Abdugagor-P pass. The route is snow-ice. The approximate height of the peak is 5400–5500 m.

Day 1

From the base camp, the group's route goes along the left-bank (orographically) moraine of the Abdugagor glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers flow into it. Here, the moraine descends and has a convenient exit to the ice. Then the path goes through the tongue of the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers, which have merged into one, and exits to the left-bank moraine of the Abdugagor glacier, which rises steeply (1 hour). We ascend along the trail to under the icefall of the Abdugagor glacier, where there are flat areas with water (1 hour). After resting on the sites, we pass the icefall in rope teams and with crampons (40 minutes). After passing the icefall, we remove the crampons and move towards the highest point of the pass. This part of the path consists of three calm ascents of medium steepness (15–25°).

Fig. 25

1. Ascent to Sofrudju peak (3785 m) — cat. d. 1B (fig. 25)

From Dombayskaya polyana cross the bridge over the Alibek river and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakay couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend it for 300–350 m. Then turn left into the Sofrudju couloir (danger of rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya (Med­ve­zh­'ya) polyana. From Medvezhya polyana ascend 300–350 m up the eastern slope of Belalakay through the snow — exit to the Sofrudju bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana — 5–6 hours.