Ascent Passport

I. High-altitude category 2. Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range 3. Peak Kommunizma via the southern ridge from Bivachny Glacier 4. Cat. diff. 5B 5. Elevation gain from camp I to the summit 3300 m length 12 km, average steepness 25–27° 6. Pitons left 2 7. Climbing hours 52, days 10 8. Campsites: 1 on a moraine 2, 6 on snow-ice platforms 3, 4, 5, 9 on ice platforms under seracs 7, 8 in a depression under a rock overhang 9. Captain: Timoshenko T.I. MS Team members:

Vysotsky V.M. CMS
Lavrinenko V.V. CMS
Shustrov N.B. MS

Coach: Galkin O.S. MS
Departure to the route August 15, 1993 summit August 22, 1993 Return August 24, 1993
Organization PAMIR MAL

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Photopanorama of the area

Photopanorama of the area. Taken from an airplane on June 6, 1986. Camera "Pentacon".

Peak Kommunizma via SW slope, 5B, K. Kuzmin, 1959
Peak Korzhenevskoi via Southern ridge, 5A, V. Tsetlin, 1966
Peak Pravdy via 3rd SW face, 5B, N. Altukhov, 1968 4, 5. Peak Kommunizma, variations of 10/3 wall, V. Bashkirov, 1988, K. Valiev, 1980
Peak Kommunizma via 10th slope from Bivachny Glacier, 5B, E. Tamm, 1967
Peak Korzhenevskoi via Southern edge, B. Romanov, 1961, 5B

Route map

1988, Bashkirov's route
team's route
Abalakov's 1933 route via E ridge ▲4200 campsite locations and their elevations (m) Peak Russia 6875 Peak Kommunizma 7495 Peak Pravdy 6400 Peak Radioklub 5615 Peak Russia to BL 3600 ![img-1.jpeg]

Problematic sections

Seracs. Complex system of crevasses and seracs. Solution: marking, rope installation.
Closed glacier sections. Hidden large crevasses. Solution: proper orientation, marking, moving only in rope teams.
Couloir after the second serac. Significant steepness (90–60°), avalanche danger, rockfall from the "gendarme" peak Radioklub wall. Solution: passing the section early in the day, interaction between rope teams.
Peak Rossiya ridge slope. "Sharpness" of the ridge ("nose"), strong side wind, risk of falling into the serac. Solution: moving in rope teams using intermediate anchor points in the form of snow and anchor pitons. These pitons have proven themselves on the slopes of Peak Lenin.
Peak Pravdy plateau. Great length, risk of getting lost in fog, giant hidden crevasses and cracks. Solution: moving only in good visibility, partial route marking, moving only in rope teams. ![img-2.jpeg]

Tactical safety measures

Camping in safe locations.
Careful belaying of the lead climber.
Descent from the summit via the marked ascent route.
Constant interaction with the observer group. Three-time daily communication via VHF radio. The rescue team leader was Chernoi N.D. Due to the remoteness of the ascent area, a p/s "Altair" was located in the base camp, which provided long-range communication with KSP 7 Tashkent and PAMIR MAL (Achik. Tash).

Team's tactical actions

Day I

According to the tactical plan, after leaving the base camp, the team reached camp 11 by 16:00. The observers' camp is also located here.

Day II

Leaving camp 11 at 9:00 (section R0–R1), the team reached the foot of the 1st serac after 30 minutes. The Lavrinenko—Timoshenko rope team leads ahead. By 11:00, they approached the "Sail" overhang. The Shustrov—Vysotsky rope team takes the lead. The first uses 2 ice tools for climbing. Rope installation. By 13:00, they approach the overhang. Lavrinenko leads, also using 2 ice tools for climbing. Rope installation. Having completed the passage of the entire section (R1–R2) by 14:00, the team sets up camp. The entire section is marked with red flags in parallel. At the end of the daylight, a schedule for rockfall along the couloir (R3–R4) is drawn up.

Day III

Departure at 9:00. Quickly passed section R2–R3 and approached the steep snow-ice couloir (R3–R4). The Shustrov—Vysotsky rope team leads ahead. On the steepest sections, the lead climbers use 2 ice tools. ![img-3.jpeg] ![img-4.jpeg] ![img-5.jpeg] ![img-6.jpeg] ![img-7.jpeg] ![img-8.jpeg] ![img-9.jpeg] ![img-10.jpeg] ![img-11.jpeg] ![img-12.jpeg] ![img-13.jpeg] ![img-14.jpeg] ![img-15.jpeg] ![img-16.jpeg] ![img-17.jpeg] ![img-18.jpeg] ![img-19.jpeg] ![img-20.jpeg] ![img-21.jpeg] ![img-22.jpeg] ![img-23.jpeg] ![img-24.jpeg] ![img-25.jpeg] ![img-26.jpeg]

Days IV–V

By 11:00, the entire team is on the 5800 m saddle. Further along the Peak Rossiya ridge (section R4–R5). The lead rope team: Lavrinenko—Timoshenko. On the final maneuver from the crevasse on the Peak Pravdy plateau, Timoshenko leads. By 13:00, having carved out a platform under a serac, the team sets up camp. Marking of sections is also carried out. Due to extremely poor visibility and strong wind with snow, the team stays at 13:00. Attempts to start moving across the Peak Pravdy plateau (sections R5–R6) are unsuccessful.

Day VI

The weather improved. At 8:00, the team started moving. The Lavrinenko—Timoshenko rope team leads ahead. On some sections of the plateau (R5–R6), marking is carried out. By 14:00, having bypassed Peak Pravdy, the team sets up camp (14). Despite a small elevation gain, the movement took a lot of time due to deep snow and constant maneuvering between hidden crevasses. At the end of the daylight, a visual inspection of the 3rd serac is carried out.

Day VII

The path along the serac (sections R6–R7) is planned. The team departs at 8:00. The Shustrov—Vysotsky rope team leads ahead. In some places, the serac has fairly steep walls. The lead climber moves using 2 ice tools. Ropes are installed. In the upper part of the serac, the Timoshenko—Lavrinenko rope team takes the lead. The movement tactic is similar. By 13:00, the steep part of the serac is passed, and the team begins moving along a wide snow-ice ridge. Vysotsky leads. The last team member carries out partial marking. By 15:00, having passed section (R7–R8), the team carves out a snow-ice platform in the "depression" under the rock overhang of the "Utug" gendarme. A camp is set up (15).

Day VIII

The weather is good. The team departs at 9:00. The Shustrov—Vysotsky rope team leads ahead. The snow-ice couloir is quickly passed. Some equipment is left on the scree platforms (only a bowline rope is taken to the summit). Timoshenko leads. Having passed the ridge and then the rock sections of the pre-summit Tower (R8–R9), the entire team reaches the summit by 14:15–14:30. The descent begins at 15:30, and they descend by 15:00. Overnight stay.

Day IX

Descent to camp 3 (13) via the marked route. 19:30–16:00. Sections (R9–R5).

Day X

Descent to the base camp (18:00). Sections (R5–R0). The control time is met. ![img-27.jpeg] ![img-28.jpeg] ![img-29.jpeg] ![img-30.jpeg]

Legend (explanations)

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Route description by sections

Section R0–R1 (photo №3)

Closed glacier, sometimes with gaps. Movement in rope teams.

Section R1–R2

First serac; the lower part is heavily broken. Chaotic accumulation of overhangs and ice cornices. In the left part, constant snow-ice avalanche activity. Movement through the central part to a large horizontal gap. Movement in crampons, belaying via ice screws. Then, a gentle slope. Inclined snow-ice plateau, heavily crevassed, with snow-ice bridges. Movement in a "serpentine" manner, navigating between crevasses. Belaying via ice axes. At the end of the snow plateau — a characteristic overhang "Sail" (60 m). Interaction between rope teams. Piton belaying. Further, through a series of crevasses on the snow-ice slope, the second serac begins, characterized by more significant gaps. A pronounced overhang "Feather" is visible. From "Feather", a drogue (10 m), a small traverse, and a steep 5-meter wall. Interaction between rope teams, belaying via ice screws. Further, a large snow-ice bridge, and after it, a gentle snow-ice slope begins, with occasional narrow crevasses. Movement in crampons.

Section R2–R3

Quite short in length, after which a steep snow-ice couloir begins. A pronounced ice ledge, above which a small snow-ice cornice is visible. Movement in crampons. Belaying via ice axes.

Section R3–R4 (photo №4)

Steep snow-ice couloir. The right part is rockfall-prone (from the slopes of the "gendarme" peak Radioklub). On the first 3 ropes, ice screws are used for belaying. The next two ropes are climbed using rock pitons. The sixth rope leads to a pronounced rock outcrop in the left part of the couloir (rock pitons for belaying). The seventh rope — an inclined traverse to the right, onto the saddle. Belaying via a mixed piton. Throughout the route — movement in crampons. Rope teams work autonomously.

Section R4–R5 (photo №5)

After the saddle, exit onto large rocky platforms. Further movement along the Peak Rossiya ridge. The first rock outcrop, at the beginning of which piton belaying is organized. Further along the sharp ridge ("nose"), exit to the second rock outcrop, at the beginning of which a small but steep wall (13 m) is visible. Belaying via rock pitons. Movement in crampons. Interaction between rope teams. After the second rock outcrop, movement continues along the sharp ridge. Rope teams work autonomously. Belaying via ice axes. In the upper part of the ridge, before exiting onto the plateau, snow pitons are used for belaying. A characteristic turning point from the ridge onto the Peak Pravdy plateau is a crevasse with a small snow-ice cornice. From it, using ice screws for belaying, a 100 m traverse is made to the right, onto an ice platform under a serac.

Section R5–R6

Large snow-ice plateau of Peak Pravdy. In the middle part — a giant crack, which is bypassed on the left along its snow-covered part. Further movement of rope teams is carried out along the slopes of Peak Pravdy and along a gentle, not clearly pronounced ridge towards the section of the plateau under the 3rd serac. Rope team movement is autonomous.

Section R6–R7 (photo №7)

Third serac. The most logical and safe path begins in the middle part of the serac, between ice ledges. Climbing upwards, exit under the ice wall. Movement on front points of crampons, piton belaying. Further, a traverse to the left, and up a steep snow-ice slope (crevasses). Movement up the wall (50 m) is carried out on front points of crampons using two ice tools. Belaying via ice screws. Interaction between rope teams.

Section R7–R8

Further, from the ice platform, movement is carried out by two independent rope teams along the ice ridge, first to the left, then to the right. At the turn — a series of crevasses. Belaying via ice screws. Exit onto a gentle snow-ice slope (crevasses). Further, crevasses and gaps become fewer, and the serac transitions into a snow-ice slope, along which the exit onto the main ridge of Peak Kommunizma is made. Belaying via ice axes. On the main ridge of Peak Kommunizma, a pronounced rock massif ("Utug") is visible, in the left part of which strong snow drifts ("depression") are observed. Rope team movement is autonomous, belaying via ice axes.

Section R8–R9 (photo №8, №1)

Snow couloir (150 m), leading onto the scree platforms of the pre-summit ridge. Rope team movement is simultaneous, belaying via ice axes. Further, past small rock outcrops — exit onto a wide snow pre-summit ridge. Mostly simple rock sections are encountered, at the end of which an implicitly pronounced internal angle of the rock pyramid of the summit is visible. Further, having overcome several small walls, exit onto rocky platforms, and then to the summit cairn of Peak Kommunizma.

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