Report on Ascent to Pik Suloeva (5816 m) via the West Ridge

First ascent, approximately 4A category of difficulty (Protocol No. 313, 3A). Leader – Zaseckij V. G.

Fortambek Glacier Basin

The summit of Pik Suloeva (5816 m) is located in the eastern branch of the northern spur of the Peter I Range, branching off from Pik Moskva. The ascent to the summit was undertaken for acclimatization purposes, and therefore it was decided to climb the peak via the easiest route, which, after studying images of the summit from different sides, was assumed to lead to the summit from the Western cirque. The ascent was planned and prepared in Moscow. On July 17, 1969, at 6:00, the group consisting of Zaseckij, Grebenschikov, Bozhukov, Nadbah, Nevvorotin, and Poroshin departed from the base camp located in a pocket of the left-bank moraine of the Fortambek Glacier (see diagram). 3 hours of walking along the moraine with a marked path, and another 1 hour ascent along the lateral moraine of the unnamed glacier, and then along the glacier itself – exit into the cirque formed by the southern and western ridges of the summit. Here, on the median moraine, they prepared a site and set up a tent. After resting and having lunch at 16:00, when the daytime heat had subsided, Bozhukov, Grebenschikov, and Nadbah went on a reconnaissance sortie to the upper reaches of the "Novator" glacier, as the unnamed glacier was decided to be named. After 2 hours, they returned and reported that:

• There is, apparently, a good exit to the West Ridge beyond the glacier's bend;
• There is also an interesting path to the summit along the counterfort of the West Wall.

Moscow City Council Burevestnik Sports Club

Ascent of Peak Suloev via the South Face, 5816 m (first ascent)

Leader: V.M. Nadbakh-Kiedessa Participants:

• I.V. Grebenshchikov
• V.K. Nevorotin Moscow, 1969 The participants of this group are part of the team from the Central Council of the Burevestnik Sports Club, formed in the spring of 1969 to undertake high-altitude and technically challenging ascents. In the summer of 1968, as part of the 2nd complex expedition of the Moscow City Council Burevestnik Sports Club, the participants of this group ascended Peak Lenin.

Report

on the ascent of Pik Suloeva via the SW wall, right buttress, category 5B, second ascent, Central Pamir, Fortambek Glacier; accomplished by a group of climbers from the CS F and S expedition from August 10 to 12, 1980, consisting of:

• Petrov A.E. — leader, 1st sports category, instructor
• Maltsev I.V. — participant, 1st sports category, doctor
• Troyanov V.M. — participant, 1st sports category
• Filonov Yu.V. — participant, 1st sports category MOSCOW 1980 Since the first ascenders do not submit their route for classification, by agreement with V. M. Bozhukov, this route can be considered a first ascent. November 20, 1980 A.E. Petrov

Pik Suloeva

“Pik Ukraina”, elevation 5030 m. “Kurayshapak” ridge, North-Eastern spurs of the Peter I ridge, PAMIR. Republic of Tajikistan.

Ascent Passport

1. Country, mountain system name: Republic of Tajikistan, Pamir.
2. Ascent class: High-altitude.
3. Ascent area, ridge: North-Eastern spurs of the Peter I ridge.
4. Summit, its elevation, ascent route: “Pik Ukraina” 5030 m, Central counterfort of the Eastern wall.
5. Proposed difficulty category: 3B, combined.
6. Route characteristics: elevation difference: 1430 m, length of sections 2–3 cat. diff.: 600 m, 4 cat. diff.: 100 m, average steepness: 30°.
7. Number of pitons driven or anchor placements used:

General Information about the Peak

Peak Elvira Shatayeva (5690 m) is located in one of the lateral ridges branching off from the Peter the First Ridge (Central Pamir). The peak was first conquered in 1974 by a group led by V. Shatayev. The ascent was made along the southwestern slopes of the peak from the Tanymas Glacier. In 1976, a group of Ukrainian climbers made the first ascent to the peak from the east, 25. Group composition:

• I. Kovtun V.G. — MS — leader
• Galas F. — IMS — participant
• Podgorsky V.M. — IMS — participant

4. Tkachenko V.F. — 1st category — participant
5. Okhrimenko V.N. — 1st category — participant
6. Kovtun N.P. — 1st category — participant

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — South-Western Pamir, Rushan Range
3. Ascent route — First ascent via the center of the North-Eastern wall of peak 5241 m (Marshal Zhukov G.K. peak)
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • height difference 1250 m
   • average steepness from bergschrund 76°
   • wall proper 80°
   • length of complex sections 980 m
5. Number of pitons driven:

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — 0-3 Pamir, Rushan Range
3. Ascent route — first ascent of Peak Klunnikov S.I. (5,442 m) from the Raumid Glacier via the Klunnikov Pass.
4. Ascent description: elevation gain — 500 m (1,000 m from the bivouac) average slope — up to 40° length of difficult sections — 100 m
5. Pitons used: rock — 3, ice — –, screw — –
6. Total climbing time — 7 hours

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — V-3 Pamir, Rushan ridge
3. Ascent route — first ascent to Peak Korolev S.P. via the southern ridge 5525 m
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • height difference — 700 m (1100 m from the bivouac)
   • average steepness — up to 45°
   • length of complex routes — 200 m
5. Pitons hammered:
   • rock — 10

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — D-3 Pamir, Rushan Ridge
3. Ascent route — first ascent from the north to the summit Ledovaya 5130 m
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • height difference — 530 m
   • average slope angle — 45°
   • length of difficult sections — 120 m
5. Pitons used:
   • rock — 23

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: High-altitude technical climb
2. Ascent area: North-Western Pamir, Peter the First Ridge
3. Peak, its height, route: Peak 5490 m via the North-Eastern ridge, first ascent
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 2290 m
   • Average steepness: 55° (from the saddle between Peak 4050 m and the NE ridge of Peak 5490 m)
   • Length of sections:
     • I–II difficulty category – 2600 m