Ascent Log
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Ascent category — technical
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Ascent area — 0-3 Pamir, Rushan Range
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Ascent route — first ascent of Peak Klunnikov S.I. (5,442 m) from the Raumid Glacier via the Klunnikov Pass.
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Ascent description: elevation gain — 500 m (1,000 m from the bivouac) average slope — up to 40° length of difficult sections — 100 m
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Pitons used: rock — 3, ice — –, screw — –
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Total climbing time — 7 hours
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Number of overnight stays — one on the moraine
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The ascent was made by a group of climbers from the expedition of the Sports Committee of the Tajik SSR.
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Surname, first name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification:
Romanov Yuri Alekseyevich — 2nd sports category, leader Belintsev Vyacheslav Timofeevich — 2nd sports category, participant Kozlov Pavel Vladimirovich — 2nd sports category Kapitanova Tatyana Vasilievna — 2nd sports category Zavarovsky Anatoly Sergeyevich — 2nd sports category Sevostyanov Vladimir Sergeyevich — 2nd sports category Kovalenko Viktor Dmitrievich — 2nd sports category Legkikh Viktor Filippovich — 2nd sports category Solovyov Mikhail Aleksandrovich — 2nd sports category Suzdalev Sergey Semenovich — 2nd sports category
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Team coach: Sogrin Sergey Nikolaevich — Master of Sports of the USSR
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The ascent was made on July 27, 1975.
Ascent Route Description
From the base camp, follow the trail to the summer pasture Udari, then to the overnight stay on the moraine of the Raumid Glacier, which takes 4 hours.
From the overnight stay on the right lateral moraine of the Raumid Glacier:
- exit onto the glacier;
- ascend through the middle part of the glacier to the cirque — 2 hours.
The glacier is closed, with possible crevasses!
In the left (in the direction of travel) corner of the cirque is a rocky massif of Peak Korolyov. The southern rocky ridge of the peak descends to the Klunnikov Pass, located between Peak Korolyov and Peak Klunnikov. From the pass, a snowy-icy slope of Peak Klunnikov and the snowy eastern ridge of Peak Kosmonavtov, which enclose the upper reaches of the Raumid Glacier, extend to the right.
At the junction of the rocky massif of Peak Korolyov and the snowy-icy slope of Peak Klunnikov is a couloir. The left side of the couloir is rocky, and the right side is snowy-icy with a hanging serac. The upper part of the couloir (exit to the pass) is closed by a rocky ridge.
The ascent to the pass is made along the left side of the couloir on the boundary between rocks and snow. Then, exit onto the pass along a rocky ridge (about 100 m) with moderately difficult rocks. Protection is provided by outcrops and pitons. The rocks are heavily destroyed.
The ascent to the pass from the cirque takes 1.5 hours.
From the pass, ascend to the right along a gentle snowy slope in the direction of small rocky outcrops of Peak Klunnikov. During the ascent, there are crevasses that may be covered with snow.
The ascent takes about 1 hour.
The descent from the summit via the ascent route takes 2–2.5 hours. The group evaluates the route as category 2B.
Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route
Ascent route: Peak Klunnikov from the Raumid Glacier via the Klunnikov Pass
| Date/Category | Slope | Length | Character of the section | Character of movement | Condition | Time | Pitons used (rock) | Pitons used (ice) | Pitons used (screw) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| June 27, 1975 1B | – | 3,000 m | Closed glacier | Movement in teams on a full rope | Fog, wet snow | Departure at 6:00, 2 hours | – | – | – | In tents at the initial bivouac on the Raumid Glacier |
| R1 | 35° | 250 m | Snowy-icy couloir | Simultaneous movement on a shortened rope | Satisfactory | 1 hour | 1 | – | – | – |
| R2 | 50° | 100 m | Destroyed rocks | Alternating movement; protection through outcrops and pitons | Good | 30 minutes | 3 | – | – | – |
| R3 | 30° | 500 m | Snowy slope, closed crevasses | Simultaneous movement in teams on a full rope | Good | 1 hour | 1 | – | – | – |
Group leader: Romanov Yu.A., 2nd sports category Coach: Sogrin S.N., Master of Sports of the USSR
