Climbing Passport

I. Route Type: COMBINED 2. Eastern Caucasus (Dagestan mountains) 3. Traverse of the DIKLOSMTA massif (4275 m, 4285 m, 4240 m, 4101 m) from East to South 4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B 5. Route characteristics:

• total distance — 3200 m
• total elevation gain — 1740 m
• average steepness — traverse
• section lengths: R1 — 1770 m

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: No. 2.9 (Eastern Caucasus)
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Diklos-mta 4285 m, via the eastern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: approximately 2A category
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 600 m average slope 30° duration of sections R1–300 m, R2–850 m, R3–150 m for belaying, for creating, etc.

46. ZAROMAT via the Left Buttress of the North Edge (combined route, category 4B difficulty) The path from the end of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac in the hut of the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier. From the hut:

• departure at 3–4 am;
• cross the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier across the plateau (closed crevasses);
• approach the steep, second right, ice-snow couloir of the North wall of the Zaromat peak. At the top left above the middle part of the couloir hang ice overhangs. From the plateau, cross over to the bergschrund in the center of the couloir via an avalanche gully. On the right side of the steep ice-snow couloir (rockfall, avalanches, icefall) 200–250 m straight up. Before reaching the left ice overhangs looming over the couloir, exit it to the right onto the rocks of the Left Buttress of the North Edge. Further on simple, heavily destroyed rocks or a snow isthmus — ascent to the ridge of the buttress. From the buttress descend to the right onto a shelf. Walk along the wide snowy shelf upwards to its end. From here, move left–upwards on simple rocks to the ridge of the Left Buttress and approach the ice-snow slope along it. On a steep ice-snow slope 80 m to the right–upwards (rockfall) to the right side of the rock wall of the upper part of the Left Buttress. Bypass the wall on the right. On simple and medium difficulty rocks on the right side of the Left Buttress along the couloir (rockfall and avalanches in the couloir, piton belay) ascend to a site. Bivouac on the site. From the initial bivouac 9–12 hours.

3. Ascent to the summit of Fil'tr from the Burevestnik Pass – category 3A

The path to the Kichkinekol Pass can be found in the description of the category 2B route. From the Kichkinekol Pass, descend to the Zamok glacier plateau and, traversing the snowy slopes below the Fil'tr summit, approach the Burevestnik Pass. When exiting the glacier into a wide, eroded gully, there is a randkluft. Cross it on the right side of the rocks – there is flowstone and snow. Then ascend on the right side of the gully (icy rocks), and in its middle part, transition to the left side, and after 50 m, exit onto the Burevestnik Pass via a steep snowy slope. From the Kichkinekol Pass – 1.5–2 hours. From the pass, ascend to the right along the rocks to the first gendarme, which is bypassed on the left along the boundary between snow and rocks. It is possible to pass it head-on. The second gendarme is bypassed on the right, 10 m away (with protection!). Then proceed through the snow and transition into an icy gully, 60°, 40 m – with protection! Ice screws are required! From the gully, exit onto a steep rocky ascent composed of slabs, 60 m. There are few ledges on this section – protection is necessary! Pitons are required! After the ascent, traverse the ridge on the left along snowy ledges, leading to a short, negative rock wall – 2.5 m. Piton required! Behind the wall, exit onto the ridge, which transitions into a snowy slope (total 160 m) and reach the Fil'tr summit. The cairn is located somewhat to the left and below, on a small rocky outcrop. From the Burevestnik Pass – 2.5–3 hours.

Dalar Uzunkol — description of the 4A climbing route from SK Greta

Approach via the Zapadny Dalar glacier to the slopes of the Dalar pass. Ascend to the pass along a snowy slope (35–45°) with a bergschrund, which is overcome via a bridge or ravine. On the pass, under the rock outcrops of the Kirpich summit ridge, is a bivouac site. From the pass, descend south, then along ledges and slopes, bypass the southern counterfort of Maly Dalar. Along snowy slopes, ascend under the rocks leading to the saddle between Maly Dalar on the left and Dalar on the right. Ascent to the saddle:

• Initially, it goes along small ledges, then along an internal angle with a stop R1.

Ascent Record

1. Category of first ascents.
2. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Shalib ridge.
3. Dul'tydag, 4127 m, via the East Ridge, combined route.
4. Category 2B, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 900 m, average slope 25°, length 3250 m. By sections: category 1 – 1350 m, category 2 – 980 m, category 3 – 820 m, category 4 – 200 m.
6. Belay points used: rock outcrops – 5, placed protection – 2.
7. Climbing time – 5 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route, overnight stay in ABC near the confluence of Nukkura and Bodonai rivers (2700 m).
9. Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich – Candidate Master of Sports, Voronin Sergey Valer'evich – 1st sports category, Maksimov Evgeny Vladimirovich – 2nd sports category.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing type: combined
2. Climbing region: 2.9.b, Dagestan mountains
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Izhena, 4025 m, via the NE ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category: 1B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation gain — 900 m
   • Length of sections with 1st difficulty category — 1350 m, 2nd — 200 m
   • Average steepness — 30°
   • 2 glaciers

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: Combined
2. Ascent region: №29 "Eastern Caucasus"
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Kosarakumeer (4097 m) (p. Baidukova, 4100 m) via the Eastern ridge from l. Belengi.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2A category of difficulty and 1000 m, 12/2-80 g.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1000 m. Average steepness 25°. Length of sections:
   • I category of difficulty — 1550 m
   • II category of difficulty — 400 m
   • III category of difficulty — 550 m
6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - combined 2. Ascent area, ridge - 2.10. Mountains of Dagestan, Bogossky ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route and its character - Kasaraku (Baidukova), 4097 m, via the northern edge. 4. Expected difficulty category - 3B 5. Route characteristics - height difference 850 m, average steepness 45° 6. Pitons driven - rock ice screw-in - 9/0 3/0 0/0 placement elements 3/0 7. Number of travel hours - 10 h Number of overnight stays and their characteristics - No overnight stays 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, their qualification - Gamzaev Badrutdin Gadzhievich, 1st sports category, Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich, 1st sports category, Mammaev Sulayban Nurmagomedovich, 2nd sports category.

I. Climbing area 2. Climbing category 3. Peak, its elevation 4. Ascent route 5. Estimated difficulty category 6. Route description 7. Number of pitons used 8. Number of bivouacs and their description 9. Number of travel hours 10. Surname, I.O. of team leader and participants, their sports qualification