- ZAROMAT via the Left Buttress of the North Edge (combined route, category 4B difficulty)
The path from the end of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac in the hut of the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier.
From the hut:
- departure at 3–4 am;
- cross the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier across the plateau (closed crevasses);
- approach the steep, second right, ice-snow couloir of the North wall of the Zaromat peak.
At the top left above the middle part of the couloir hang ice overhangs.
From the plateau, cross over to the bergschrund in the center of the couloir via an avalanche gully. On the right side of the steep ice-snow couloir (rockfall, avalanches, icefall) 200–250 m straight up. Before reaching the left ice overhangs looming over the couloir, exit it to the right onto the rocks of the Left Buttress of the North Edge. Further on simple, heavily destroyed rocks or a snow isthmus — ascent to the ridge of the buttress.
From the buttress descend to the right onto a shelf. Walk along the wide snowy shelf upwards to its end. From here, move left–upwards on simple rocks to the ridge of the Left Buttress and approach the ice-snow slope along it. On a steep ice-snow slope 80 m to the right–upwards (rockfall) to the right side of the rock wall of the upper part of the Left Buttress. Bypass the wall on the right. On simple and medium difficulty rocks on the right side of the Left Buttress along the couloir (rockfall and avalanches in the couloir, piton belay) ascend to a site. Bivouac on the site. From the initial bivouac 9–12 hours.
From the site, ascent 50–60 m on heavily destroyed rocks of medium difficulty on the right side of the Left Buttress or along the couloir in its center to a snowy site under a monolithic, overhanging and protruding into the right couloir wall. On the left in the couloir stands a separate stone. Bypass the wall by traversing 30–40 m along the ice-snow right couloir (rockfall, piton belay). Behind it, an ascent of 40 m to a site. Further on simple and medium difficulty heavily destroyed rocks on the right side of the ridge 70–80 m upwards under the vertical wall. Bypass the wall on the left and along a wide icy inclined 100-meter shelf exit to the right to the pre-summit snow plateau of the hanging glacier.
On a gentle snow-firn slope to the right upwards under the summit rock tower. Bypass the tower on the right and exit to the West Ridge. Here turn left, then on simple snowy rocks of the West Ridge ascend to the summit of Zaromat. From the bivouac on the buttress 4–5 hours. Descent to the south. The duration of the route is 4 days.