28

Georgian Climbing Club

named after A. B. Japaridze

Class of Traverses

Traverse

Peak "Nablyudeniy" (5579 m) – peak "Fersmana" (5700 m) – peak "Bezimyannyy" (6010 m) – Oshanina massif (6390 m) – peak "30th Anniversary of the Soviet State" (6447 m) – peak "Moskva" (6785 m) – peak "Soyuz-Apollon" (6047 m) – peak "Dushanbe" (5456 m) with ascent to peak "Nablyudeniy" via the southeastern counterfort (first ascent) Team of the Georgian Climbing Club named after A. Japaridze Leader: D. Dangadze, Master of Sports Members:

• G. Abashidze, Master of Sports

Report

on the first ascent to Peak 7490 m (Peak N. Ostrovsky) via the West Ridge, made by the combined team of the Ukrainian SSR Sports Committee, led by S.I. Bershov, consisting of:

• G.I. Vasilenko
• V.G. Boyko
• V.P. Gordeev
• S.K. Sentsov
• V. Rekoslavsky
• P.F. Slavinsky
• A.N. Tolstousov Between June 8 and June 13, 1979.

Ascent Passport

1. Category of ascentSystem-technical
2. Region of ascentPAMIR, FIRST RIDGE
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT AND ASCENT ROUTE P. 5490 m. via western ridge
4. Proposed category of difficulty5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference2190 mAverage steepness of sections 1 — 3680 m. II — 1300 m III–IV, 1600 m. V — 1000 m IV
6. Pitons hammered: for belayingTo createN.P.O. rock 68, ice 48, hatchet pins 40
7. Number of walking hours28
8. NUMBER OF NIGHTS AND THEIR CHARACTERISTICS4 on ascent, 1 on descent; in tents
9. Full name of leader and participants, sports qualificationBershov Sergey IgorevichMS Boykov Vasily Grigorievich, CMS Tordeev Vladimir Pankratovich, CMS Vasilenko Gennady Ivanovich, CMS Sentsov Sergey Konstantinovich, CMS Slavinsky Pavel Frantsevich, MS Rekoslavsky Viktor Valerievich, Polstousov Alexander Nikolaevich, MS, Team representative Polovoy I. V., M. Date of departure and return8 June — 13 June 1979

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: High-altitude technical climb
2. Ascent area: North-Western Pamir, Peter the First Ridge
3. Peak, its height, route: Peak 5490 m via the North-Eastern ridge, first ascent
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 2290 m
   • Average steepness: 55° (from the saddle between Peak 4050 m and the NE ridge of Peak 5490 m)
   • Length of sections:
     • I–II difficulty category – 2600 m

Passport

I. Altitude-Technical Class

2. Central Pamir, Peter the First Ridge
3. Peak Oshanina (6389 m) via the North face
4. Expected — 6th cat. diff., first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 2040 m, length ≈ 3000 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 1350 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 60° (4500–6300 m), including 6 cat. diff. 76° and 110° (≈ 5000 m), 80° (5200–5250 m), 80° (6230–6300 m) — total 190 m.
6. Pitons driven: rock screw anchors ice 113/IX 0/0 14/II 66/0
7. Climbing hours to the summit 59; days — 7

Passport

First ascent made in 1975

1. Climbing category — traverse
2. Climbing area — North-West Pamir
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights — Traverse of the three peaks of Oshanina (6305 m, 6380 m, 6300 m) from Turamys Glacier.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 2450 m. Average steepness 50°. Length of the difficult section 1700 m.
5. Pitons hammered: rock 133 ice 76

Report

on the traverse of the peaks of the northwestern spur of the Petra I ridge: Zapadny Oshanina (6305) — Centralny Oshanina (6390) — Vostochny Oshanina (6310) — 30 let Sovetskogo Gosudarstva (6447) — Moskva (6785) with ascent to Zapadny Oshanina peak from the Shini-Bini saddle via the northern ridge (first ascent) Team of Moscow City Council "Burevestnik" Sports Society Team captain: Candidate Master of Sports V. Khomutov. Team coach: Master of Sports Yu. Borodkin.

Route Characteristics

Peaks included in the traverse:

Protocol No. 398, January 15, 1975 Report On the ascent to the summit "Podvodnaya Lodka" (5079 m) (approximately category 3B) by a group of climbers from the MAI sports club. The summit "Podvodnaya Lodka" is located in the Central Pamir region, in one of the northern spurs of the Peter the First ridge. Fig. I, ascent scheme. From a sporting perspective, the summit may be of interest for initial acclimatization climbs with the aim of gradual, gentle adaptation to high altitude. Characteristic features of this route, as well as the entire region:

• Unstable rock formations

PETRA I RIDGE — NORTH-WESTERN PAMIR

Report

ON TRAVERSE OF PIK GERoEV MALoY ZEMLI PEAK (5462 m) — PIK SEVERCEVA (5120 m) (FIRST ASCENT)

№	Kovtun V.G.	MS	«Burevestnik»	— leader
1.	Balinskiy A.P.	MS	«Burevestnik»	— participant
2.	Bolizhevskiy V.K.	MS	«Burevestnik»	— participant
3.	Yatsko V.S.	MS	«Burevestnik»	— participant

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief: