Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Tepli region, classification section number 2.8.
2. Pakota North (3505 m) – from the North.
3. Proposed 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference — 350 m (from point R0). Total route length — about 500 m. Length of sections with 4 category of difficulty — 10 m. Average steepness:

• key sections — 70°
• entire route — 30°

6. Hooks left on the route — none.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Kazbek region, Kauridon gorge, KMGV section number - 2.8.
2. Pik Pamyati Karmadontsev; 3933 m, via North-West buttresses of North-East ridge.
3. Proposed category: 2A; first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Route elevation gain — 700 m. Route length is about 2000 m. Length of sections with 4th category difficulty is 10 m. Average slope:

• main part of the route is about 50°.
• entire route is about 30°.

Photo 1. General view of peak 3933 m (“Pamyati Karmadontsev”). The first ascent route is marked. Photo taken from the middle part of the Kauridon gorge. MACLUTAE 1:400000 Photo 2. Panoramic view of the area. Routes marked:

• number 1 – to Kaydzhany Mal. via North ridge, category 1B;
• number 2 – to Kaydzhany Severnaya via North ridge, category 2A;
• number 3 – first ascent route to peak 3933 m (“Pamyati Karmadontsev”). Also marked:

1. Pik Polyakova Yuriya (4271 m) via the central North-West buttress, cat. III.
2. Leader: Egorin S. V.
3. Caucasus. Bokovoy Range. Kazbek-Djimara massif.
4. Section number in KTMGV 2.8.

Route Description

Ascent Data Sheet

1. Caucasus. Bokovoy Range. Kazbek-Djimara massif. Section number in Classification 2.8.
2. Pik Polyakova Yuriya 4271 m (in the 2001 Classifier, item 2.8.81—peak 4005 m), via the central North-West buttress.
3. Category 2A is proposed, first ascent.
4. The nature of the route is combined.

The summit is located in the Tepli group of the Front Range of the Greater Caucasus, in the northern "Saw" of Kolota (4168 m), being the northernmost peak of the spur. The first ascent to Pik Severny was made from the Tsaziu-kom gorge, with an exit to the eastern ridge of the Peak, on June 12, 1966, by a group of climbers from Ordzhonikidze, consisting of 7 people (1st category, the rest - higher category) led by V. Meshcheryakov, with R. Proskuryakov as the instructor-observer.

Day 1

From Ordzhonikidze, they drive by car along the Gizel highway to the village of Dzuarikau, after which they turn into the Kurtatinsky gorge. They pass through the villages:

• Lash,
• Khidikus,
• Khariskin and reach the bridge over the Tsaziu-don river, at the confluence of the latter with the Fiagdon river. They ascend along the left bank of the Tsaziu-don river, following the trail, which after about twenty minutes of walking leads to a small bridge over Tsaziu-don. They cross the bridge and follow the trail along a fairly wide terrace of the gorge, overgrown with bushes and dwarf birches. After 2 hours and 30 minutes of walking along the trail along the river, they exit the bush zone and move along an alpine meadow. Near a small mountain lake, a bivouac can be conveniently set up.

Day 2

The route to the summit of Pik Skryabina via the Northeast Ridge (first ascent). The summit elevation is 3456 m.

Introduction

Pik Skryabina is located in a short spur of the Main Caucasian Range between the peaks of Khalatsa and Zekkara in the upper Zrug gorge. The distance from the village of Nar to the foot of the mountain is 12 km. The Transcaucasian Highway rescue team is based in Nar. The Zrug gorge is in a border zone, so it is necessary to obtain permits in advance. 10 km from Nar, on the riverbank, there are ruins of a 10th-century temple on a hill. It is possible to spend the night in a hut near the temple. In the summer, ascents to the surrounding peaks can be made from the hut.

Ascent Details

1. North Caucasus, Zrug gorge, Main Caucasian Range, classification point – 2.8.
2. Name of the peak: Pik Skryabina, route: via the Northeast Ridge.
3. Proposed category: 3B.
4. Route type: rock.

Ascents to the Peak of the 25th Anniversary of North Ossetia (Syrkhu–Barzond) (4051 m) via the northern ridge, category 3A difficulty. The summit is located in the northwestern spur of the lateral ridge branching off from Tsarint-khokh and represents an independent massif of the spur. The northern ridge of the summit was traversed in 1949 by a group of North Ossetian alpinists. To the west, a steep ridge branches off, not yet traversed by anyone and estimated to be around category III-IV difficulty. To the north, into the Kurtatinsky gorge, towards the village of Khidikus, descends a ridge that was traversed for the second time by groups of the North Ossetian DOS "Spartak" on May 29-30, 1964 (Group of 1st-class climbers and 2nd group led by 1st-class climbers). The height difference from the Kurtatinsky gorge to the summit is 2500 m. The route length is approximately 7 km. The main technical work takes place at an altitude of 3300-4051 m above sea level. The path from the village of Khidikus goes along a wide ridge. Initially, it's a steep grassy slope with many trails. Further, the path goes along slopes overgrown with subalpine mixed forests. Higher up, at an altitude of 2300-2500 m, grassy slopes resume, overgrown with rhododendrons. Overnight stays are possible here (lack of water in summer). The journey from the village of Khidikus to the overnight stay takes 4.5-5 hours. Further up - a short distance along the slopes and exit onto a wide, clearly defined ridge, overgrown with grass, with rock outcrops. On the ridge - a large "gendarme". The journey from the overnight stay to the "gendarme" takes 2-2.5 hours;

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Tbau Glavnaya via the Southwest Ridge from Kakadursky Pass, category 1B, by the GSK "Krokus" team, May 12, 2019 2019

1. Ascent Passport

Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Rocky Ridge.
3. Peak, route: Tbaukhoh (3007 m), via the left part of the Southwest wall.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3B–4A, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 600 m — including 400 m of actual wall climbing — total route length: 900 m — length of wall climbing: 450 m, including: — 35 m of 5th category complexity

Report

On the ascent of Peak Shchurovsky via the northwest route, category 5B difficulty

TEAM LEADER: SHABALIN B.I. — Candidate Master of Sports COACH: SHATAEV V.N. — Master of Sports Moscow 1969

Team Composition