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Route Description: С ребру
Ascent certificate for the peak Kasaraku (4097 m) via the North Ridge, category 3B, climbed in 1989 by a group of alpinists.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class - combined 2. Ascent area, ridge - 2.10. Mountains of Dagestan, Bogossky ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route and its character - Kasaraku (Baidukova), 4097 m, via the northern edge. 4. Expected difficulty category - 3B 5. Route characteristics - height difference 850 m, average steepness 45° 6. Pitons driven - rock ice screw-in - 9/0 3/0 0/0 placement elements 3/0 7. Number of travel hours - 10 h Number of overnight stays and their characteristics - No overnight stays 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, their qualification - Gamzaev Badrutdin Gadzhievich, 1st sports category, Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich, 1st sports category, Mammaev Sulayban Nurmagomedovich, 2nd sports category.
Route Description: СВ гребню
Description of the route of the first ascent to the summit of Metiko (3812 m) along the North-Eastern ridge, category 2A.
PASSPORT
I. Category of first ascents. 2.2.10., mountains of Dagestan, Shalib ridge. 3. Metiko, 3812 m, from the north and along the north-eastern ridge, combined. 4. Assumed 2A category of difficulty. 5. Height difference 500 m, average steepness 40°, length 1000 m; of which 1 category of difficulty – 300 m, 2 category of difficulty – 655 m, 3 category of difficulty – 45 m. 6. Pitons hammered for rock protection – 1, 3 snow anchors placed. 7. Group's moving hours – 4 hours. 8. Without overnight stays. 9. Leader: Konstantin Eduardovich Dorro, 1st sports category.
Route Description: с пер. 3. Нукатль
Description of a winter combined route, category 1B difficulty level, to the summit of Nukatl South-Western (3776 m) in Dagestan.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Winter category.
- Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Nukatly ridge.
- Nukatly South-West, 3776 m, via West Nukatly Pass, combined route.
- Category 1B difficulty, first ascent.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 550 m, average steepness — 30°, length — 1100 m, sections of category 1 difficulty — 500 m, category 2 — 450 m, category 3 — 150 m.
- Pitons were not used, protection through rock formations.
- Climbing hours — 3.
- Overnight stay in the upper reaches of the Maradukal River below West Nukatly Pass (3100 m).
- Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich — Candidate Master of Sports.
Route Description: Ю гребню
Ascent to Mt. Ortobek (3937 m) via the southern ridge, category of difficulty 2a, description of the route and approaches to the base camp.
ASCENT REPORT
I. Climbing area: 2.9.Б, Dagestan Mountains 2. Climbing class: combined 3. Peak, its height: Ortlobak, 3937 m 4. Ascent route: via the southern ridge 5. Estimated difficulty category: 2А, 18 m, 54605 29/1–85 6. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, steepness — 30°, length of sections 1st cat. diff. — 450 m, 2 — 220 m, 3 — 20 m 7. Pits were not used 8. Overnight stay in the base camp 9. Surname I.O. of the leader and participants, their sports qualification
Route Description: 3 гребню с л. СВ. Аддала
Ascent to the top of Tunsada (Dagestan) via a mixed ice-rock route, category 2B, starting from the North-Eastern Adдала glacier and following the Western ridge.
ASCENT DOCUMENT FIRST ASCENT
- The route is ice-rock
- 2.96 – Dagestan mountains (Eastern Caucasus)
- Ascent to peak Tunsada, 4013 m, from the North-Eastern Addala glacier and along the Western ridge
- Proposed difficulty category – 2B
- Route characteristics:
- length – 930 m
- total elevation gain – 400 m
- average slope – 40°
- length of categorized sections:
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
Ascent of Shalbuzdag West (4105 m) via East Ridge, first ascent, grade 2.9a.
2.9А.43
WESTERN SHALBUZDAG (4105 m) VIA EASTERN RIDGE 3B TO TUR (FIRST ASCENT) ASCENT DETAILS
- Ascent category: combined
- Ascent area: 2–9 East Caucasus
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Western Shalbuzdag, approx. 4105 m, from the south to the col and via the Eastern ridge
- Proposed difficulty category: 3B
- Route characteristics:
- elevation gain: 900 m
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Description of a 3A category complexity mountain route to the summit of Shalbuzdag (4142 m) via the Western Ridge in the Eastern Caucasus.
I. The route is combined 2. East Caucasus 2.9. 3. Mt. Shalbuzdag (4142) via the Western ridge. 4. Proposed category of difficulty 3A. 5. Route characteristics a. Height difference: 750 m b. Average steepness of main sections: 40° c. Length: 1340 m. (I category — 580 m; II category — 560 m; III category — 120 m; IV category — 80 m) 6. Pitons driven: - rock: 9
Route Description: правой части С стены
Description of the first ascent to the summit 4118 m in the Shahdag massif in the Eastern Caucasus via a combined route of category III complexity.
PASSPORT
I. Class: First Ascent. 2. SHAHDAG massif, Eastern Caucasus, from Sudur valley. 3. Peak 4118 m, in the western ridge of Shahdag massif, via the right part of the northern slope, combined. 4. Difficulty category — 3B. 5. Elevation gain 1050 m, length 2500 m, sections of 3rd diff. cat. — 450 m, 4th diff. cat. — 50 m, average steepness 25°, main part of the route — 45°. 6. Pitons — 43/0, ice screws, rock — 4/0. Wedges — 0. 7. Travel hours — 8 h. 8. No overnight stays. 9. Leader: Alexander M. Khvashchenko, Candidate Master of Sports.
Route Description: 2-му кф. СЗ стены
Ascent to Bavaryurt peak (4126 m) via the 2nd buttress of the North-West face, grade 4A.
Bazaryurt, via the 2nd buttress of the NW wall Mamedov E.S. Eastern Caucasus 2.11.6
Passport
- Character of the route — combined
- Eastern Caucasus, YatukhDere, Shakhnabad, Kusarchay gorges
- Bazaryurt via the 2nd buttress of the NW wall
- Claimed category — 4A — first ascent
- Height difference — 865 m, length — 1600 m. Length of the sections of 4–5 cat. — 440 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 43°.
- Duration — 10 hours
Route Description: с севера по кулуару 3 гребня
Ascent to the summit of Archimedes from the northwest via the couloir, complexity category 3A, recommendations on equipment and organization of the ascent.
10. Archimedes from the north-west via couloir — category III difficulty (V. Ryazanov, V. Benkin, A.
Ryabukhin, V. Samokhvalov, and V. Chernov — July 8, 1961). The path from the Bezengi alpine
camp to the left-bank moraine of the Maly Ukyu glacier behind the Southern counterfort
of the Ukyu peak summit see in description 3. Immediately behind the Southern counterfort
of the Ukyu peak, [move] right to a large scree and, in its lower part, partially snowed
couloir that is snow-ice in its upper part (rope up! the couloir is prone to rockfall).
60–70 m up the rocks on the right side of the couloir, then traverse the couloir left and
60–65 m up the rocks on the left side (beware of streams!). Above the couloir's mouth,
from under the slabs, move to the right side of the couloir and exit to the North-West