Sokol — 23 45 m, 85′ Sokol, m-t "Zapятая" 5A, F6b (or V+, A1), 230 m

Description prepared by: Maksim Kostrov and Olga Kostrova

From the asphalted observation deck on the road, move first along the slope overgrown with forest, then:

• left along the rocky mulde to a long shelf going left;
• from the shelf to the right upwards along the slabs and trees to a large shelf under the wall.

Foros kant — 7

Along the left side of the "green corner", 4a (20 m, V) (route by A. Brynza, 1991)

The western part of the massif and the most complex southeastern wall are separated by a large internal corner, descending from the summit plateau and called Green due to the moss covering it. The route starts at the base of the couloir, descending from the Green inner corner. From the alpine camps, walk about 150 m towards Baydarskie Vorota until the beginning of the ascent to the Green corner. From the road, start moving up the scree towards the steep wall. Having overcome a small wall, move right along the shelf to the large inner corner located on the

Description of the "left chimney" route 2B on Chelebi, variant through the chimney.

Written by Anatolik Eremeev on September 25, 2011 The approach to the route from the parking area near the spring takes 40 minutes, from the road — about an hour. R0–R1. The start is from a tree at the base of the chimney. The first rope length is "garden-veggie" climbing between bushes and trees. Nothing complicated. The station is on a tree before the "plug". (40 m II) R1–R2. Unambiguous climbing. It's impossible to get lost.

• "Probka" (plug)
• "Probka kolodets" (plug well) The station is on a tree after the second "plug". (35 m: 5 m IV, 25 m I, 5 m IV) R2–R3. The crux rope length. This is where the most interesting part begins. From the tree, approach the "plug" before entering the deep dark chimney. If the rocks are slippery, you can hang a foot loop in the "hourglass". Then move a couple of meters up the chimney. Climb in "raspor" (opposition) — you won't be able to do it otherwise :). Protection:

Description

First ascents on v. Nadezhda via the eastern ridge, approximately category 1B difficulty. From the base camp, follow the left bank of the r. Sofiya (orographically) to its confluence with the r. Ak-Airy. Then, up and to the left, along the left (orographically) bank of the r. Ak-Airy to the first belt of "baраньи лбы" ("sheep's foreheads") — 1 hour of walking. The belt of "baраньи лбы" is bypassed from the right, following a small stream. Then, to the left across small meadows overgrown with rhododendron. The route proceeds up a medium scree slope to a shoulder, beyond which lies the upper part of the Ak-Airy river valley. Here, a green, flat clearing with a nearby stream of clear water makes for a suitable starting bivouac site. From the first belt of "baраньи лбы" — 1 hour. From the starting bivouac, proceed up the valley. The valley levels out after a slight ascent. Ahead, a tongue of a small glacier coming from beneath the Ak-Airy pass comes into view. Cross it in the direction of the southeastern slope of v. Nadezhda. The glacier is gentle, crevasse-free, and open. Traverse the southeastern slope of v. Nadezhda with a gradual ascent towards the first major "gendarme" on the eastern ridge. Rope up before reaching the first gendarme! In rope teams, navigate the scree slopes and inclined ledges, bypassing all gendarmes on the left, and ascend in the direction of the pre-summit gendarme. The gendarme is bypassed on the left up to a couloir (live rocks!!!) that passes between the gendarme and the summit. Up the couloir, straight up for about 60 m, to reach the summit of Nadezhda. From the start of the route to the summit — 1 hour of walking. Descent follows the ascent route.

Report on the first ascent of the SW couloir of Mt. Bolshoy Tkhach (2161.0 m) via the "Otkryshka" route, approximately 2A category of difficulty, accomplished by M.V. Bogatyrev, A.Yu. Burlev, and Yu.A. Menyayev on February 6, 2008. Table of Contents

• Ascent Passport
• Maps of the Area
• Brief Characteristics of the Area
• Approach Description
• Route Diagram in UIAA Symbols
• Summary Table of the Route
• Route and Descent Description
• Route Photographs

2.4.1748

I. DESCRIPTION OF THE TRAVERSE OF THE PEAKS PIK KILAR "FIZKULTURNIC STALIN" - KAYARTA-BASHI 3A cat. diff. The first ascent of the route was made on May 14, 1961, by a group of climbers from Tyrnyauz, consisting of:

1. Shamaev I.A. - leader
2. Fatakhov Kh.A.
3. Drobot S.Yu. The group assessed the route to Pik Kilar from the North Karata-Mu glacier (via the "Shakhtyor" pass) as 1B cat. diff.

Route Description

Day 1 - approach. From Tyrnyauz, ascend the gorge to the fork of the Sakashil-Su and Kayarta-Su rivers; before descending to the suspension bridge over the Kayarta-Su, turn right-up along a well-developed pack trail - into the Kayarta-Su gorge. After 0.5 hours and 40 minutes of walking, the trail leads to a small clearing with tall grass and a large stone, and soon exits to meadows near the summer pastures. From the clearing, another 200-300 meters of trail goes through the forest, then exits to meadows, onto a small grassy ridge (with an irrigation ditch along it). Further along the trail, along a stream, through meadows, ascending low grassy hills, we approach the river. Passing small clearings with a stream, we ascend along the cliff above the riverbank and exit to the point where the gorge turns. The gorge turns almost 90° to the left (southeast). Before reaching the river bend, at the beginning of a steep, overgrown with rhododendrons cape on the opposite bank, cross the river where a convenient ascent to the cape is visible. Ascending to the cape, the trail goes along a wide terrace along the high, steep riverbank. Overcoming a small stony ridge, we descend to a large grassy area with a stream.

Climbing Passport

Appendix I

1. Climbing type — rock.
2. Climbing area: spurs of the main Caucasian ridge from Chiperazau pass to Kitlod pass.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: Termen-bashi — 4050 m via the northern counterfort.
4. Expected difficulty category — 3–4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m average steepness — 50° length of sections:

Report on the Second Ascent

Dulnev's Route, Tyutyu 2nd Western peak via the left part of the South face of the South ridge. Assumed 5B category of difficulty. Multidisciplinary Mountaineering Club "FREELINE", Pyatigorsk.

Passport

1. Class: technical.
2. Central Caucasus, Kullumkol gorge.
3. Tyutyu 2nd West via the left part of the South face of the South ridge, 4420 m.
4. Assumed 5B category of difficulty, second ascent.
5. Height difference: 920 m, length — 1100 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, NW spurs of Adyr ridge, north of South Sabalyk glacier, from Adyrsu gorge side.
3. Peak 3800 m, from Southeast, first ascent.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 1B.
5. Elevation gain of the route 400 m.
6. Pitons used 1/0.
7. Number of climbing hours — 7 h.
8. No overnight stays on the route. Bivouac on South Sabalyk glacier moraine.
9. Leader Kiselev Nikolai Petrovich, Candidate Master of Sports.

44. Maly Donguzorun from the south (route 1Б category). From the "Baksan" alp camp along the highway up the Baksan valley. Before reaching the "Itkol" hotel, cross the bridge over the Baksan river below the confluence of the Donguzorun river, and also over the Donguzorun. Then move along the gorge path, which goes through a beautiful dense forest almost without ascent along the right bank of the Donguzorun; further, the path rises sharply, exits the forest and leads to the Donguzorunkel lakes. From the second lake:

• along the right bank of the river flowing into it, go to the right-bank moraine of the Nameless glacier, lying under the southern slopes of the Maly Donguzorun peak;
• then ascend the moraine and at its end, turning right, descend to the talus couloir descending from the East ridge, to the right of a small snowy slope of Maly Donguzorun (from the second Donguzorunkel lake — 1.5–2 hours);
• on the right or left side of the couloir (rockfalls go along the couloir!) ascent to the talus,