1. The ascent category is technical.
2. The ascent area, ridge - Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. The summit, its height, ascent route - peak SAGU (4650 m), first ascent via the left part of the NW wall and N ridge.
4. The proposed difficulty category is 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 970 m, wall part - 730 m, length - 1446 m, wall part - 796 m, sections of 5-6 difficulty category - 606 m, average steepness of the wall part - 65°
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock: for belaying - 68, for ITO - 8
   • placed protection: for belaying - 154
7. Number of climbing hours - 31.5 (including 10 hours of processing)

Passport

1. Ascent to peak Namangan Komsomolets (conditional name) via the Northwest Buttress of the West Ridge. Type of ascent — technical.
2. Region of ascent — Pamir-Alay, Collector Ridge
3. Peak — Namangan Komsomolets (conditional name), height 4400 m, Northwest Buttress of the West Ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 2A
5. Route characteristics — combined, height difference — 480 m, sections of 5–6 cat. diff. — none, average steepness — 30–35°.
6. Number of pitons: rock — 0
7. Number of travel hours: approach from ABS "Dugoba" to the route — 7 hours, route completed in 5 hours, descent from the summit and return to ABS "Dugoba" — 6 hours.

Climbing Route Description

to Begich Peak (4473 m) via Western Counterfort of the 10.3 ridge, category 3A (approx.). From the base camp at Kozhdeba meadow, follow the trail along the left (orographically) bank of the Kok-Su River to the 2nd bridge (2 hours 30 minutes from the camp). Cross the bridge and ascend along the Shakhdara stream to the cirque under Kyz-Korgon Peak (4630 m), where you set up a bivouac (4 hours 30 minutes from the camp). From the bivouac, ascend along the left (in the direction of travel) stream to the glacier between the ridges of Begich and Kyz-Korgon Peaks. Traverse the glacier (in teams), bypassing the western ridge of Begich Peak, and exit to the upper cirque of the glacier. From the upper cirque, approach the reddish counterfort of the Southwest ridge, orienting towards the triangular wall formed on the left by a chimney and on the right by a snow-ice couloir. The journey from the bivouac takes 3 hours. Ascend to the triangular wall's summit, moving left-up along a ledge, then right-up through a cleft (40 m), and then along the ridge (40 m). Use piton belays. On the triangle's summit, there's a control cairn. From the cairn, ascend directly up a wide, steep (40°) scree couloir, then along rocky ridges, exiting under the base of the large reddish triangular wall (120 m). From here, move right, then directly up along the right rocky wall of a narrow snow-ice couloir, exiting onto the counterfort ridge (40 m). Use piton belays and natural features for protection. The journey from the start of the route takes 2 hours. Along the counterfort ridge, navigate through a series of short (3–4 m) rocky walls and inclined ledges, bypassing a large gendarme on the right (in the direction of travel), and exit onto the Southwest ridge of the peak, under the base of a rocky ascent (80 m).

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class - technical
2. Ascent area, ridge - Pamir-Alay, Southern spurs of the Alay ridge, Aidarbek glacier
3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Koltsova peak, 4820 m, via N wall
4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B
5. Route characteristics: combined
   • height difference - 950 m
   • wall part - rocky
   • rocky part height difference - 490 m
   • length of sections with V-VI difficulty category - 610 m

3. Summit, its height, ascent route

Peak 4784 m North-Eastern edge of p. Communa North.

4. Proposed difficulty category

5A cat. (first ascent)

5. Route characteristic, height difference

Combined 1500 m Length of sections with 5–6 cat. difficulty: 465 m Average steepness: 50°

6. Pitons driven: for belay, for creating artificial handholds:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — TECHNICAL
2. Ascent area — PAMIR-ALAY, ALAYSKY RANGE, KOK-SU VALLEY
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. YANA KREUSA, 4634 m, RIGHT EDGE OF THE SOUTHERN WALL CHIMNEY
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: the route is rocky, with an altitude difference of 850 m, wall section 485 m, total length 1230 m. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 400 m, 6th difficulty category — 52 m. Average steepness of the route — 50° — wall — 80°
6. Pitons used: rock — 78, ice — –, bolted — –, chocks — 12
7. Total climbing hours — 25 hours
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: two bivouacs with lying positions: the first one on a meadow under the wall, the second on a ledge

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Southern spurs of the Alay ridge, Kок-Су gorge.
3. Peak 4630 m, via the center of the NW wall
4. Proposed difficulty category 5A
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 700 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty 130 m, average wall slope 80°
6. Protection anchors installed rock anchors 35, ice anchors 1, used slings with carabiners 21
7. Total climbing time 14.5 hours

The 4300 m peak (Malaia Ossonaly) is located in a spur branching off to the north from the Ossonaly peak. This peak is one of the most interesting objects for rock climbing in the Kok-Su area (Pamir-Alay). The most challenging routes can be laid out along its northeastern wall, which steeply drops to the glacier lying in the cirque of the Pravda Vostoka, Malenkiy Prints, and Ossonaly peaks. The wall is formed by fragile young marbles. Relatively destroyed rock sections alternate with large smoothed slabs. In the center of the wall, there is a huge hollow with a significantly overhanging cornice above it. Passing this section of the wall is only possible with the help of bolt hammers. The route chosen by the team passed to the left, along a part of the wall of the same steepness, which can be traversed by free climbing. The 4300 m peak is located near the road running along the Kok-Su River from the Alay hostel to the geologists' base. The journey from the Alay hostel to the bridge, from which the road leads to the trail heading to the overnight stays under the peak, takes 3 hours. The bridge is located 1 km after the confluence of the Kok-Su and Dzhugurtash rivers. The trail leads to a small waterfall, clearly visible from the road, and then brings you to the grassy slopes located directly under the 4300 m peak. Here, near the glacier tongue, from which a small river flows, there are convenient places for overnight stays. The journey along the trail from the road to the overnight stays takes 1 hour. The approach along the large talus from the overnight stays to the beginning of the route takes 20 minutes.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Alai Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Terekhova Peak, 4830 m, via the southern ridge.
4. Expected complexity category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics — rock climbing, height difference — 650 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 100 m, average steepness of the route — 60°.
6. Pitons hammered in: | | for belaying | for creating artificial footholds | | :----------------------------- | :----------- | :--------------------------------- | | rock | 3 | none |

5 Imakouk

4533 m Hovebka №2 4350 m R19

• R17
• R18 R16
• R14­–R15
• R12­–R8