Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Terskey Ala-Too, Karakol gorge.
3. Peak Jigit, via the center of the north face's kar.
4. Proposed 6th category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1220 m. Total route length 1565 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 715 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: | Category | Hammered in | Left behind | | :--------- | ----------: | ----------: | | Rock | 132 | 37 |

PASSPORT

1. Technical class
2. Kyrgyz Ala-Too
3. Peak Dzhigit, center of the north face
4. 6th category of difficulty
5. Elevation gain: 1004 m, length 1165 m. Length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 526 m. Average steepness of the route — 64° "lower bastion" — 76° "upper bastion" — 71°

1. Climbing type — technical.
2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Dzhigit, 5170 m, via the center of the N wall (V. Vakurin's route, 83).
4. Difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics — height difference 1120 m, length — 2050 m, length of 6B difficulty sections — 140 m.
6. Protection:
   • rock anchors: 97
   • ice screws: 66
   • placed nuts: 20.
7. Total climbing hours — 39.

1. Class of technical ascents
2. Tian Shan, Karakol gorge, Terskey Ala-Too ridge
3. Peak Dzhigit, center of the North wall
4. Route 6B cat. diff. (Vakurin)
5. Route length — 1415 m Length of the wall part of the route — 1095 m, length of sections 5-6 cat. diff. — 435 m, including 6 cat. diff. — 95 m
6. Height difference of the wall part of the route — 970 m
7. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 62°
8. Pitons driven: ice, rock placements, bolted, skyhooks

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Tian-Shan, Terskey Alatau
3. Climbing route with summit height: second ascent via the center of the north face, Jigit Peak (5170 m)
4. Proposed difficulty category 6B
5. Climbing characteristics Elevation gain 1370 m (excluding serac icefall) Average slope 72° Length of sections 5–6 km, traverse 900 m
6. Pitons used: rock 177, for artificial climbing aids 15, ice 27, bolted 0

44a

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Area of ascent: Tian Shan mountain range, Karakol gorge, Terskey Alatau ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Jigit 5170 m via the center of the North face.
4. Category of difficulty — 6.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1230 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1110 m, average steepness — 76°.
6. Number of pitons used: for belaying, for creating artificial footholds — rock — 81; ice — 17; screw anchors — none; placements — 89.

Passport

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Climbing area: Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge, Karakol valley.
3. Climbing object: Jigit peak, 5170 m, via the center of the North face.
4. Difficulty category: VI (I. Slesov's route).
5. Elevation gain: 1380 m. Route length: 1695 m (including 250 m ridge). Length of sections with difficulty category 5-6: 1260 m. Average slope: 73° (3790–5115). Sections with difficulty category 6: 85° (3970–4420, 4630–4925).
6. Number of pitons:

Author: Kirill Belotserkovsky, Almaty

Report on the ascent of Jigit Peak

I wrote a report on our ascent of Jigit Peak. It's a detailed one with numbers, diagrams, and photos. So it doesn't gather dust in the archives of various commissions, I'll post it online, maybe someone will find it interesting.

• Ascent Passport
• Region, valley, section number according to the classification table: Tian Shan, Teskey-Ala-Too, 7.10.44­a
• Name of the peak, route name: Jigit via the center of the north face (Slesov's route)
• Category of complexity: 6A
• Nature of the route: combined
• Height difference of the route: 1200 m

D.B. Sharashenidze

Center of the big triangle of the North wall

(Report on the first ascent) Team captain MS USSR Sharashenidze D.B. Team coach MS USSR Kartvelishvili G.I. Tbilisi – 1976

Tactical plan of the ascent

The tactical plan was made taking into account the specifics of the area, characterized by complex meteorological conditions. Reconnaissance confirmed that the route is a monolithic wall of great steepness, and there are practically no places for overnight stays in a tent. Therefore, the tactics of passing this route had to be fundamentally different, since hanging overnight stays during a long ascent period greatly exhaust the climber's strength. The main difficulties presented by the wall were as follows:

1. Transportation of cargo on the route.
2. Organization of reliable and safe overnight stays without a tent.

Ascent Log

1. Climbing grade — technically challenging.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasian Ridge and its spurs from Chipperaza Pass to Ortokara peak.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Latsga (3999 m) eastern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 620 m average steepness — 52° length of sections — 5th cat. diff. — 197 m
6. Pitons hammered: for belay and for creating R.P.E. rock pitons 56