ASCENT TO NORTH USHBA VIA THE EASTERN WALL /"MIRROR"/ FROM CHALAAT GLACIER /Climbing Report/ Kiev — 1968 Ascent route via the "mirror" of the Eastern wall of N. Ushba.

1. Introduction

1. Brief Characteristics of the Ushba Massif

Ushba is located in close proximity to the Main Caucasian Ridge, branching off from it near Shchurovsky Peak. The Ushba massif features two sharp peaks separated by a shallow saddle. The north-eastern peak has an absolute height of 4695 m. A sharply descending and short ridge with a small peak, Gulba, extends from it.

I. Class – technical 2. Central Caucasus 3. Peak — Ushba Northern via left part of NE wall, 4694 m, route by Grishchenko V. I. 4. 5B cat. diff. 2nd ascent of route I-98-I year 5. Height difference: 1495 m, length — 2050 m length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. — 1000 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 75° (3995-4035, 40-I-5–4-I-75, 42-I-O–44-I-O), including 440 m of 6 cat. diff. 6. Pitons hammered:

USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1981. TECHNICAL CLIMB CLASS

Central Caucasus 196a

Report

On the ascent of the Sports Committee team of the Ministry of Defense of the USSR to the SOUTHERN USHBA peak via the edge of the Western wall through the "pillar".

Brief overview of the ascent object and route

Many routes have been laid out to the peaks of the Ushba, about twenty of which have received prizes at the USSR Championships. Two 6th category routes pass along the bastions of the Western wall of the Southern peak. At the junction of the Western and South-Western walls of the second rock belt, a sheer 700-meter granite "pillar" rises. To the left, the "pillar" is bypassed by a giant internal angle of the Western wall, along which Myshlyaev—Kosmahev laid out a fine route. To the right, along the South-Western wall, a route by V. Monogarov's group goes upwards to the right, also marked with gold medals at the USSR Championship. The routes are symmetrically positioned relative to the vertical axis of the "pillar". (Along the axis, a large crevice - a chimney - runs from the top). The upper 2/3 of the "pillar" between the internal angle of Myshlyaev on the left and the visual mid-axis overhang with a convex relief "fresco". This is the protrusion of a huge monolithic slab (400–450 m long), intersected by two transverse tiers of cornices. Along the right edge of this slab, 20–30 m from the mid-axis, a route was laid out in 1981. To the foot of the "pillar", the route coincides with the route of L. Myshlyaev and V. Monogarov (300 m of the ridge). Further, 560 new meters were passed along the sheer wall. On the rocks above the "pillar", the route coincides with L. Myshlyaev's route. Further, the route goes to the bastion "knife" with a variant to the left of L. Myshlyaev's route.

I. Climbing class — technical. 2. Climbing region — CENTRAL CAUCASUS. 3. Peak — SOUTH USHBA — 4710 m. First ascent route along the edge of the Western wall through the "pillar". 4. Proposed difficulty category — 6. 5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 1460 m (3250 — 4710). Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1270 m, including 6th category — 735 m. Average steepness: route — 68–70°, wall section ("pillar", grey wall, canopy) — 90°. Total 850 m. 6. Driven pitons and used stoppers

I. Technical class 2. Central Caucasus 3. Ushba South peak via East face (Khatskevich route) 4. Proposed - 6B cat. diff., second ascent 5. Height difference - 1260 m, including wall section - 1075 m. Route length - 1600 m, wall section - 1275 m. Average steepness of main wall section - 75° (3550–4250 m) of which 6B cat. diff. -

• 85° (3615–3625 m)
• 90° (3625–3635 m)
• 95° (3705–3725 m)

1. Climbing category Mechanical (92)
2. Climbing area Central Caucasus
3. Climbing route with indication Ushba South peak and their heights via the western wall 4710 m.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1690 m (without icefall), average steepness 67°, route length 1931 m (without icefall), length of difficult sections more than 300 m.
5. Pitons hammered in: rock 277, ice 51, bolt 24
6. Number of climbing hours 74.5 h
7. Number of nights and their characteristics: 8 of them: normal in a tent 2, sitting in a suspended tent 5, sleepless in hammocks 1

MINISTRY OF SPORTS, TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY SPORTS FEDERATION OF ALPINISM

Championship of Russia

2011 Class of high-altitude and technical ascents

Report

Of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory Peak Ushba South 4710 m via south-west face, 2nd passage of the variant Moshnikov 1986. Suggested:

REPORT

ON COMPLETING THE TRAVERSE OF SOUTHERN USHBA – NORTHERN USHBA 6A DIFFICULTY LEVEL BY THE TEAM FROM NIU MGSU FOR THE PERIOD from August 28 to September 2, 2023 Route "Krasivyy" 2023

1. Climbing Report

Ascent Log

1. Class — technical
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus
3. Peak — Ushba South, 4710 m via the right part of the SW wall
4. Difficulty category — 6B
5. Elevation gain — 1465 m (by altimeter); length — 2000 m; length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 140 m; length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 355 m; average steepness of the main part of the route (pillar) — 81°
6. Pitons driven: rock, chocks, ice, bolt: | 12*+6 | 43 | 13 | 58* | | :-------------------------------------: | :-: | :-: | :-: | | 4 | 32 | 0 | 34 |

344029, Rostov-on-Don, 1st Cavalry Army St., "Planet" club, A.G. Pogorelov

Ascent Log

1. CLASS — technical
2. ASCENT AREA — Central Caucasus
3. OBJECT OF ASCENT — Ushba South and North with ascent via the right part of the southwest wall 6B cat. diff. (Kustovsky's route)
4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 6B
5. HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 1450 m
6. DISTANCE — about 3000 m
7. PITONS DRIVEN: ROCK — 136/44